Hainan's miserable diving scene

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diverkim

Contributor
Scuba Instructor
Messages
357
Reaction score
2
Location
Cowichan district
# of dives
1000 - 2499
I finally made it to Hainan Island in the south of China. I had read an article in Asian Diver magazine a few years ago that downplayed the diving in Hainan but offered that a diving experience could be had there. Otherwise information on diving in Hainan is sorely lacking. Even the information provided on the Net is scarce.

The Asian Diver article didn¡¯t do justice to Hainan¡¯s diving. In fact they overdid it. It is absolutely the worst diving I have done anywhere and I have dived quite a few countries. Hainan¡¯s diving is located in the southern part of the island near the city of Sanya. A major dive setup is located on a nearby island of Sidao (West Island). Before crossing the short body of water to West Island people are required to queue in a long procession; you are made to weave through the many turnstiles before finally entering a speedboat for the quick trip over to the island. On West Island the process begins over again, what I liken to, cattle-car diving.

Everyone is basically a first time diver. Chinese seem to believe that Hainan is the Chinese equivalent of the Great Barrier Reef and indeed they do advertise it as such. The advertisements are blatant lies featuring crystal clear waters with pasted in tropical creatures.

Well, of course, I was not interested in an introductory dive but I saw on the price board that they had deep diving. Okay, I thought, I'll go for that. I asked if it was a boat dive and they replied in the affirmative. Turns out it was a 2-minute boat trip over to a platform just offshore. The maximum depth turned out to be 12 meters and I went along with this because from what little I could see underwater (absolutely maximum viz was 2 meters) below 12 meters was just sand.

Above 12 meters were a few dead lumps of coral with heavy algal growth. Fish life was sparse. I saw one lionfish, a few squirrelfish, one flounder, one small grouper (that made the dive guide have an orgasm). The dive guide was most irritating. As many may know, the Chinese have another concept about how animals should be treated; well, this guide insisted on picking everything up like a starfish and one time he had even captured an anemonefish inside his garden-gloved hands. For me this was just plain ignorance. The guy kept bumping into me constantly though I signalled him many times to give me space to kick freely. The shallow dive ended after 42 minutes because the guide bled his tank dry. The tanks were only filled to 150 PSI to start.

Running out of air is especially unpleasant since the rental gear features no octopus. My dive guide was on his own but in shallow water. There is no discount for using your own equipment. The rental equipment is no-name brands and I mean this literally. I could not find a brand name on the BCDs, wetsuits, or regs. Also you will need to add on a few sizes to what you would normally wear. E.g., I usually use a Scubapro BCD size M but in Hainan I used an XL and it just fit me.

As for other diving, I was told Yalong Bay was better but after going there I could see that Yalong Bay was more of the same. I eyeballed the situation there and asked where the boat was going to. The guide pointed to a nearby island. Maximum depth was to be 12 meters again. No thanks. I only considered it because I was stuck on a beach and had 3 1/2 hrs to kill in a scorching sun.

Hainan diving ¨C forget it!
:shaking:
 
DiverKim- Many thanks for your account of diving off Hainan. Sure diminishes my desire to go there. I am wondering though if seasonal conditions might have been part of the problem.

Is August monsoon season there? I've only dived that region of the world Feb-Apr when conditions seemed to be fine.

Of course the equipment and cattle boat conditions wouldn't change seasonally unless there are fewer visitors during the winter months.

Dr. Bill
 
Yeah, actually, I'd be interested in learning about how the diving is in the winter. Right now I think I'll stay away. I was considering this place last winter and now I'm glad I went elsewhere.

Not sure if the monsoon is affecting that area now or not. I know the philippines is in monsoon season but vietnam's is during the winter. Both are pretty close to the island.
 
I am moving to Hainan next month and plan on diving a fair bit when I am not working. I will be there for a year so I should be able to give y'all a pretty acurate year round run down on the diving in Hainan.

I will be sure to keep eveyone updated as my adventure progesses.
 
I went to Hainan because the travel agent assured me the summer season there would be untroubled by typhoons. I was aware that in Vietnam this was a season not to dive.
Everyday I was there was calm and clear and the days preceeding my arrival were reported to be calm. So I can only assume that untoward weather conditions did not influence the diving much although seasonal currents might have affected the diving conditions.
Nevertheless if the viz had been better (and the viz is not overly important consideration in my assessment of a dive) the dive would still have been a disaster because the coral was sparse, covered in tattered nets, and dead. The algal growth on the coral was one of the few signs of life on the dive. Fish life was equally sparse although I did spot a ghost pipefish dancing between the spines of a sea urchin.
I'm interested to see if talltex111 has better luck. I hope he does but I sure wouldn't recommend Hainan to anyone as a dive destination.
 
Just to re-affirm everything that Diverkim has already stated.

As I mentioned in a previous posting, Hainan Island is just the WORST diving imaginable and unfortunately this is the only experience most Chinese will ever have (although thankfully a few try in Thailand or Malaysia when vacating there), as the many staff in our office who have been to Hainan, and claim to have been diving, will attest to.

Advertising in China is VERY liberal in all aspects of marketing and with very little governmental control, therefore do not believe what you may read in advertising blurb, pictures and photographs for many products are routinely 'borrowed' from the West.
The Chinese are used to cattle market conditions everywhere they go and it is accepted as the norm, many actually feel uncomfortable and insecure when travelling alone or just with friends.

BTW - my experiences of Hainan were in early January - supposedly a good season to dive. Vis was 3 to 5m and life was very scarce with severe damage to all coral. You should enjoy if you wish to view / photograph boulders and sand.

Kevin
Shanghai
 
While some of what people are saying is true, personally, I had a pretty good experience diving in Hainan. The first thing to be aware of is to avoid all the dive shacks lining the main stretches of beach. They cater only to tourists and it's really a rip off. Check out the padi web site and find a real dive shop. I went with China Dive for two days and I was really happy with them. Guo Yong was a really great guy and he gave me a refresher session since it had been awhile since my last dive. It's true that Hainan is not Thailand and if you're expecting amazing coral reefs, you're bound to be disappointed. That being said, There's plenty of sea life to keep it interesting and some cool rock formations.

My first day of diving was just a shore dive, but the second day was off the platform that a few other people have talked about. Since I was with an independent company, I didn't have to wait in any lines (we just walked by the Chinese tourists in the matching hula shirts) and we did our own thing, staying as far away from the tourist as possible.

The rates at China Dive were reasonable, although I was expecting a little less considering we were in China. Unfortunately, being China, the government restricts the ability of the independent (and good) companies from operating the way they would in most countries. They have to rent the tanks from the big hotel-run tourist companies and to use their facilities. It's kind of a drag, but until the government lightens up, that's the way it is. China dive had all their own equipment (in good shape and name brand) and the only thing we had to rent was the tanks.

Diving in China is still a fledgling sport, but I would say it's worth while, especially if you're already in Sanya. I had a great time and would do it again. China Dive was very professional and I strongly recommend them.
 
While some of what people are saying is true...

With all due respect, apart from the fact that the cattle car diving can maybe be avoided now (remember the original post was 6 years ago, and the commercial aspect of diving may have improved somewhat), what is it that people are saying that is untrue about Hainan diving?

I have dived in many, many countries and in many conditions. I am accepting of almost any half-decent diving. In all honesty, Hainan was the worst experience in my 1500 dives so far.

Nonetheless, I am glad that you enjoyed ... but I would never recommend Hainan to anyone.
 
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While some of what people are saying is true, personally, I had a pretty good experience diving in Hainan........The rates at China Dive were reasonable, although I was expecting a little less considering we were in China. Unfortunately, being China, the government restricts the ability of the independent (and good) companies from operating the way they would in most countries. They have to rent the tanks from the big hotel-run tourist companies and to use their facilities. It's kind of a drag, but until the government lightens up, that's the way it is. China dive had all their own equipment (in good shape and name brand) and the only thing we had to rent was the tanks.

Diving in China is still a fledgling sport, but I would say it's worth while, especially if you're already in Sanya. I had a great time and would do it again. China Dive was very professional and I strongly recommend them.

Yes! I have good diving experience in Sanya too and got my PADI OW certificate in May, 2009. I only have 4 days holiday in May and try to complete my PAID OW course during this holiday. I don't have accompany for this diving trip. This is my first time to do my trip in myself only. Of course I will concern the important thing is "safety" and "quality" diving tour in Sanya!

My original plan is going to Malaysia or Philipines, but I send many emails to other PADI center with no reply immediately. I only have 4 days to confirm my air-ticket. Finally, I found Sanya have diving course and everything match my budget/time. I did the call to there, one of nice guy called Guo Yong from China Dive Club to reply me, he help me to book resort and pick me up at airport. I didn't have any diving equipment and suit. They help me to arrange it without any worry! Of course, he can arrange English speaker diving instructor to me, because my Mandarin not very well. (it's shame I'm Chinese!!)

I very enjoyed this diving trip and they bring me go to town visit and eat local meals with all diving instructors, all of them came from everywhere (e.g. China different provenience, Japan, South Africa, etc)

This is my first time went to Sanya, I only take one hour flight from Hong Kong. The weather always sunny and clear! Honestly, there are most of Chinese people may be not good to speaking/understanding English, if you must compare to other mature diving travel place, may be Sanya still new and under development! I think this is committment by China Government going to plan and make Sanya to be a good holiday/diving heaven at the part of China.

I found the China Diving Club's people/instructors are very nice and they have great diving experience in the World. The important things they have good passion to promote the diving experience to anyone.

Of course, I will strongly recommend all of friends to Sanya travel and China Dive Club! You should no doubt of them! In my personal opionion, I would like to try to diving in many places to get different experience, somewhere must have different comments from different people, why not go to there directly to see!

Cheers!
Monnie
 
I'd like to thank jdardine for letting me know about China Dive in Sanya - I should have looked them up on my own, but my experience at the time had little foresight.

I, too, had a pretty terrible experience trying to dive in Sanya. I had a few friends who wanted to try diving for fun, so we went through a package tailored for first time divers. We were hauled around the beach like cattle, as diverkim so astutely described. First there was an equipment demonstration (in Chinese), then there was a long walk, a cab ride, a long wait, another long walk (all with gear), until we ended up a few hundred meters down the beach. After about 3 hours of this nonsense, my friends and I saw that we were being taken out on a shore dive to about 1 meter deep water where 100s of other people were standing with gear on, putting their faces in the water. I'd asked the company we booked with, then asked the man we walked with to the shop, then the shop owners, and finally the guys down at the beach if we were taking a boat out. Right up until the guy on the beach, it was all yeses, then he said, "of course not, last week was a typhoon, no boats out."

We canceled everything and had to fight to get our money refunded. To reiterate, if you find yourself diving in Sanya, do not go through the diving companies by the beach.

I'd really like to try Hainan again, so talltex111, let us know.
 
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