Help please with new Faber 12L tank - leaks around valve knob

[Bert van den Berg]

Hi,

Wonder if anyone can help me with a problem with a brand new Faber 12L steel tank. I'm out on my boat and trying to use it for the first time. When I go to open the tank valve I can hear air hissing out. Thought it was the O-ring, changed that, no better. Then thought it might be the regulator, put it on another tank and all works fine.

The problem is definitely with the tank valve itself but it's filled to 3300 psi and I don't want to mess around with it unless I know what I'm dealing with.

The boat's well equipped with tools, o-rings of all sizes, etc. and I would really like to dive this tank this weekend if it's possible for me to fix the problem safely. The dealer is closed for the rest of the weekend of course.

Hope someone can tell me what to do. If you're not sure, please don't answer.

Regards,

Bert

 

[gcarter]

Had this problem after the LDS rebuilt a valve. The valve needed to be disassembled again to fix the leak. I would not dive the tank.

 

[JahJahwarrior]

The o ring that is leaking can be changed with the tank pressurized as you will leave the valve seat closed.

A boat full of tools and know one knows how to change what is probably a 010 o ring on a valve stem? Google a schematic for your valve and you should be able to figure it out.

 

[Fundive123]

Yup, sounds like the o-ring on the valve stem that can get damaged by over tightening the valve knob when turning air on/off. About a two minute fix, just a couple tools are needed to access and replace the o-ring. Happened to one of my tank valves when someone aggressively checked my air during a buddy check... the person wasn't use to me turning my air on, then backing it off a little. If you're completely unsure of what you're doing, its best to wait and take it to the shop.

 

[Bert van den Berg]

Ok, thanks for the information so far.

I've got the valve knob off. This is a K-type valve. Says "ATLANTISDIVE.CO SoS 13-05/226 ISO 10297 232 BAR".

After removing the knob I see a nut with a diameter of about 5/8 inch. I assume this has to come off but there is a lot of resistance with a 6" crescent wrench. I'm a bit nervous about forcing it.

I tried searching on the ATLANTISDIVE.CO.COM website and also Google in general does not come up with any help. Might have to give this tank back on Monday and miss a dive.

Thanks for your attempt to help me.

Regards,

Bert

 

[NAM001]

you did vent that tank off didn't you?

 

[DBF]

I had 2 valves leak on brand new faber tanks. First one was caused by the dimple on the back for the yoke drilled off centre. Tried 3 regs and all leaked. Returned tank and had it replaced. The second was a damage din adaptors at the back o-ring took, 3 adaptors and two tech to get one to seal correctly. Not had any more problems since.


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[clownfishsydney]

If it has a valve that is convertable to DIN, then it could be the oring behind the insert. This has happened a number of times to people I know.

 

[Colliam7]

After removing the knob I see a nut with a diameter of about 5/8 inch. I assume this has to come off but there is a lot of resistance with a 6" crescent wrench. I'm a bit nervous about forcing it.

You are probably referring to the bonnet nut. And, NO-O-O-O, it does not have to / should not come off with the cylinder pressurized.

Without knowing specifically what the particular valve construction is, one possible fix in your situation is to actually tighten - not remove - that nut. One of the most common sources of leaking around the valve handle, after a valve is rebuilt, is an insufficiently tightened bonnet nut. It is also possible that, in the initial assembly of a new valve, this nut was not properly tightened. The fix is to tighten the bonnet nut until the leak goes away. Now, without going into a lot of detail, I usually prefer to depressurize the cylinder, tighten the nut, re-pressurize and leak check the valve, etc. But, that isn't an option for you as I read your post. However, an easy 'field fix' for you is to tighten the nut further, sometimes as little as 1/8 or 1/4 turn is enough. That is something you can do on your boat. If it works, great. If it does not, you are no worse off than you are now.

Yes, the leak may be a problem with the valve stem O-ring (an easy fix, IF the cylinder is de-pressurized, and you have the proper O-ring). Yes, the leak may be a problem with the valve seat (also an easy fix IF the cylinder is de-pressurized, and you have the proper valve kit). Yes, the problem could be a distorted copper crush washer, which can happen when a valve is assembled, and the crush washer is not properly aligned before the bonnet nut is installed (and, also an easy fix, IF the cylinder is de-pressurized, and you have the proper copper washer to replace it with).

The bottom line, short of tightening the bonnet nut, if the leak is truly coming from the valve, there is little you can do without de-pressurizing the cylinder, which is not something that would help you right now.

Might have to give this tank back on Monday and miss a dive.

Good call.

 

[Diver0001]

IMPORTANT

Dude, if you take that mechanism apart the tank needs to be empty. Don't force it or you'll turn your tank into a 14kg spinning sledge hammer!

R..