HP 100 vs HP 119 or HP120

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deich

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Ft Luaderdale
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I'm a Fish!
Hey yall... Looking for some advice...

I am currently in a BP/W and diving HP 100's... I am looking for a little more gas on the deep dives and am considering either HP 119 or HP 120's..

My main concern is trim and and stability.. I dont think I would have a problem with the 120's as i can add a little weight to the upper cam band to balance the legnth of the tank, but I dont like the legnth of the tank....

My concern with the 119's is that they may add some roll due to their increadsed diamater...

I am a fairly large guy 6'1" 245lbs...

Your thoughts, D
 
u should not have to add any weight at all. The weight is not an issue, i am the same height and diving diving a 120, u will be fine.LOL
 
Hey yall... Looking for some advice...

I am currently in a BP/W and diving HP 100's... I am looking for a little more gas on the deep dives and am considering either HP 119 or HP 120's..

My main concern is trim and and stability.. I dont think I would have a problem with the 120's as i can add a little weight to the upper cam band to balance the legnth of the tank, but I dont like the legnth of the tank....

My concern with the 119's is that they may add some roll due to their increadsed diamater...

I am a fairly large guy 6'1" 245lbs...

Your thoughts, D

I just went through that excact due diligence and opted for the Worthington HP119 and really like the way it trims out. I am also larger at 6'1'' 225lbs. I fearded the bottom of the cylinder would conflict with that region of my body but it did not. I greatly prefer to my spare LP98's with their less streamline 8" diameter. I also see no need to counter-balance with weight...
 
IMO, you should be able to make most tanks trim out OK.

There are limits. Tall people generally end up head heavy when they try to double hp80's like E7-80's.

But I can trim well with an AL80, steel 72, FX-117, AL100, FX-100, E7-100.

Might have to make some adjustments, but unless you're really short or unusually tall, it just shouldn't be that hard.
 
Make sure that you choose the tanks that have similar negative buoyancy characteristics when they're empty. That way you don't have to mess around with changing your dive weight.

My M-series Faber HP100 and HP120 have nearly identical negative buoyancy characteristics when empty. No need to change any weight. If I were to want to get an 80, I'd get the M-series HP80 as well. It's only 1lbs less in negative buoyancy characteristics when compared to my HP100 and HP120. I can compensate for 1lbs difference.
 
If you're going to keep using an HP 100, get the HP 120 for your larger tank. Both tanks have the same diameter so you won't have to mess with your setup if you use the big tank for the first dive and the smaller tank for #2.
When I had LP 120s and 85s, it was always a PITA to have to size-down and then remember to size-up the tank bands.
At 245 pounds, you're gonna wind up wanting two HP 120s for the extra gas buffer.
 
I've been considering a 120 cf tank as well. My 2010 resolution is to free up
more time for diving and maybe dive more wrecks. I just did a quick check
and it seems the worthington 8" HP119 and the worthington 7.25" HP120 have
similar buoyancy. The difference of course is the 4 inches taller
on the 7.25" 120HP tank. The 8" 119HP is also 4 lbs. heavier on land.
When these tanks are full they are about 4 lbs. more negative (more air and steel)
than the PST HP100. When empty it gets a little closer (air gets
closer but still more steel). I'm not short but not over 6 foot either so I plan
on renting a 7.25 HP120 and making sure I don't end up to leg heavy with the
longer tank. I don't want to mess with any cam band weights or the 8" tanks.
Happy New year to all and safe diving to all in 2010 !
 
Last edited:
yeah... I am going to change out both tanks...
 
If you are looking at HP119 and HP120, I would actually prefer the HP130. You should check it out. Not much different than the HP119 in shape, but has more cubic feet.
 

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