Ikelite housing owners...

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I just got mine back from a check up. I have about 120 dives on it since I got it in November and I'm going on another trip tomorrow. I just costs $125 to get all the o-rings replaced, all checked out and pressure tested. They replaced one of the buttons that was sticking too. For me it's just a little more insurance against having a problem on an expensive dive trip.
 
Diver Dennis:
I just got mine back from a check up. I have about 120 dives on it since I got it in November and I'm going on another trip tomorrow. I just costs $125 to get all the o-rings replaced, all checked out and pressure tested. They replaced one of the buttons that was sticking too. For me it's just a little more insurance against having a problem on an expensive dive trip.

For every trip, I routinely check the tightness of all the knobs on shafts, keeper clips on the inside of the push buttoms and the bulkhead and mounting tray nuts for being tight....cheap insurance

As an added precaution when entering the water, I put pressure on the port against the housing as I submerge it...just a little help to make sure it's sealed before the pressure increases....I've had funny things happen between the rinse tank or boat floor and the time that my rig is handed down to me in the water....don't just grab and jerk it underwater.....hold the port tightly against the housing and start down....you can release after 5 or 6 feet....

Karl
 
Haven't decided on a long term strategy for my Ike housing yet in terms of maintenance. Bought it new last year and have had it on a one week liveaboard so far - 26 dives.

Rinsed it thoroughly with fresh water when I got home and lubed each of the push bottons and knobs before putting it back in my hard case for storage. Depending on the amount of time until my next dive I might consider sending it to Ikelite for a tune-up. Then again, I might just seal it up and stick in a bathtub or large plastic tub filled with water and look for leaks.

'Slogger
 
I just dove my housing yesterday and it had not been in the water since the end of last year. I have given it a good rinse after every dive. Before loading the camera I assembled the housing and dome, and with a cap on the strobe port I submerged the housing in a pool. I worked all of the controls to make sure they functioned normally and there were no leaks. It worked great on two dives yesterday. I hope to post some pics this week.

---Bob
 
Slogger:

I work the buttons to keep them from getting stiff but have not lubed them. How do you do it and what do you use?

---Bob
 
ScubaBOBuba:
Slogger:

I work the buttons to keep them from getting stiff but have not lubed them. How do you do it and what do you use?

---Bob
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I have a small can of food grade silicon with a long thin tube nozzle (like on a can of WD40). I just shoot a small (very small) amount of silicon along side of each button and then work them several times to distribute the lubricant.

Used the same practice for over 15 years with my Nikonos gear and never (knock on wood) had a leak, or flood for that matter.

'Slogger
 
Controls that do not provide in and out movement will require removal of the shaft to lubricate, but this is usually required only every 50 to 100 dives. The control definitely should be serviced if a shaft does not turn freely.

Yikes, I am sending mine in for maintenance. I think I have 200+ dives on my Ikelite housing. FWIW, I have been pretty hard on my housing. I rinse it each time, probably pressing the buttons about every other rinse. I have never had a flood, knock on wood.

All sorts of people have handled my housing, handed it up and down, etc.

It has traveled in a Pelican on about 16 flights. The one thing I do religously is "feel the rings" by putting a tiny bit of silicone on my fingers. I am feeling for a grain of grit, or maybe a hair. I always dunk test it before splashing.

One thing I do, that I have been advised not to do, by people who know more than me, is I leave it in the rinse bucket. People with more experience and knowledge tell me this is not good. I do not know why I continue to leave my set up in a big bath (no masks, or other items) except to say that it seems logical to me that the camera does not take impact or get hit by tanks, feet, gear, and choppy seas causing impact. I will report back when I flood. Also, I am careful about closing the clamps bilaterally, applying equal tension, simultaneously. Divers reporting that they hold the port tight until at depth of 10 ft or so, have me wondering about my "camera in bath method." Maybe I have just been lucky...meanwhile everyone around me as flooded. I think there must be a little voo doo involved!
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/perdix-ai/

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