Infor needed for Zodiac Repairs

[MBD0607]

Ok,
Here's what I have: I was able to score a Zodiac F470, which is in good shape (tubes hold air, no major damage, keel fine, transom seals intact and still attached). However, the rubber is oxidized, as it sat out side and the cover was not fully around the boat. Also, the transom coating is peeling off, but the wood is solid and not rotted.

So what I need is info on any treatments for the rubber (the complete boat) for the oxidation, and what do about the coating peeling off the transom. Here, my plan was to sand it off and varnish the heck out of it.

Any ideas or sugggestions would be appreciated.



Thanks!

 

[Mr.X]

Ok,

Any ideas or sugggestions would be appreciated.



Thanks!

There seems to be a bunch of products out there for restoring rubber inflatables. Here's one I found. There are bound to be others.

Inland Marine - Liquid Rubber

X

 

[porbeagle]

Yes, Mr. X has it right. Stuff works great,is pliable,lasts,and stops pinhole leaks from appearing.Also is easy to apply.But I don't know its cost.Also there is a similar product
on the canadian market which is superb.Costs about $80.You'll have to google that though,
as I don't remember their name. Avoid the stuff that you mix and pour inside.Outside treatment is far superior.All said and done,you stand to get another 5 years out of your inflatable for short money. (Who is Mr. X?)
Good luck with your project. PORBEAGLE

 

[MBD0607]

Project is about done.
Recoated the keel with Liquid Rubber, and used the Boat Coat you mentioned for the underside of the main tubes (below the fender line). Took 303 protectant to the topside of the tubes, and cleaned off any oxidation.
Reglued some loose seams on the floor, and took out the bow thruster board (which was rotted), and replaced it with 1" oak to which I applied 6 coats of urethane varnish.
Thing looks brand new. Can't wait for warmer weather to try it out.

 

[Peter_C]

Project is about done.
Recoated the keel with Liquid Rubber, and used the Boat Coat you mentioned for the underside of the main tubes (below the fender line). Took 303 protectant to the topside of the tubes, and cleaned off any oxidation.
Reglued some loose seams on the floor, and took out the bow thruster board (which was rotted), and replaced it with 1" oak to which I applied 6 coats of urethane varnish.
Thing looks brand new. Can't wait for warmer weather to try it out.

Yikes sounds like quit a project. Loose seams on the floor? That is a common problem with Zodiacs and one that is not easily repaired without complete removal of the bottom. Typically it happens right in the front at the bow. I know this from experience of redoing a Futura floor and transom.

Which outboard do you have?

Good luck and have fun with it!

 

[MBD0607]

I should explain that a little better. The seams I was speaking of were the seams for the roll up floor, which can be removed. Gas and Oil spills had eaten the glue away in some spots. Rather than doing a half-assed job, I pulled the seams all the way apart, cleaned off all the old glue, then re-glued the complete seam.
Seams along the keel and tubes are fine, as are the ones along the transom. Floor is now done, and just needs to be put back in.

As far as a motor, this came with a 40hp 2 cylindar two stroke. For the life of me, I can not find a manufacterer's name anywhere, or model number. The VIN we found, but nothing else that would give me any information. The motor heads down to the boat shop next week to have a look over and tune up, as I have no idea when it was last used. I was told it was cranked over about 8 months previously, but not since then. Rather than chance it, off to the engine shop it goes.

 

[spoolin01]

Should be a sweet boat. I'd like to hear how the 303 treatment holds up after a few weeks. I took 303 to my old black hypalon Achilles that looked mildly oxidized, after cleaning it with 409 and a green scouring pad. Looked shiny and great for a couple weeks in the shade, but as soon as it got some sun and water it looked no different than before. Don't know if the 303 gloss would have lasted longer had I been more aggressive about removing the oxidation, but actually prefer it not so slippery like the 303 makes it.

 

[MBD0607]

The 303 held up fine. I put several coats on, and in between each one I let it sit for a while, then wiped off any excess with a clean dry cloth.
So far so good.

Only b#$%*h was getting the roll up floor back in straight and where it should be. Thing is ready to go, so next week it's dive time.

 

[Mr.X]

The 303 held up fine. I put several coats on, and in between each one I let it sit for a while, then wiped off any excess with a clean dry cloth.
So far so good.

Only b#$%*h was getting the roll up floor back in straight and where it should be. Thing is ready to go, so next week it's dive time.

Let us know how you get on! I've seen the roll-up floors on Zodiacs, and while stable and secure not so easy to get in!!! I got myself an air floor inflatable just because of hassle.

Cheers,

X

 

[MBD0607]

We got the floor in by deflating the boat to almost empty. Attached the front skirt to the bow thruster board, then slowly worked the floor backwards, until it was level and straight. Once good, we reattached the rear skirt to the transom, and all was well.


Almost........


Did a float check for leaks, and found slow leaks at the keel inflation valves from the main tube. Panic set in, as this is not a cheap repair. Anyway, pulled it from the water, and brought it home. After looking at it, I decided to try and fix it myself, rather than haul it to the nearest dealer for repairs.I had to cut the rubber tube to get the valves out, and what I found was this:
- The rubber O rings had dry rotted, and that was the reason for the slow leak.
- The rubber tube, is nothing more than a rubber heater hose for a car.

So, after a trip to NAPA Autoparts, and $20 later, I had the parts needed to fix it. What I did was take the plugs/inserts out (they screw into the metal valves on the main tube and the keel), and clean them off. Brushed out the threads on the valves, and cleaned 'em up.
Next, I took the inserts/plugs and replaced the O rings. Wrapped the threads with teflon friction tape (good old plumbers tape), and threaded them back on. Once they were set, I used Zodiac glue on the male ends of the main tube plugs/inserts, and pushed the new hose on. Clamped it down with a hose clamp, and let the glue dry.
After 30 minutes, put glue on the male ends of the keel inserts/plugs, pushed on the hose, clamped 'em down with a hose clamp, and let these sit for another 30 minutes.

A pressure check later today showed no leaks, and the soapy water test was good also.

Hope this helps if anyone runs into the same issue.