Inline valves for bailout

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kwinter

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I did some searching through this forum and couldn't find an answer to a stupid question. What would be the disadvantages of using inline valves on sidemount tanks? For me, it is really about bailout bottles that I sidemount. But it always gets interesting when I have to decide what gas to put where based on the valve. Using standard valves, it leaves me with the reg up/reg down question. Using left and right valves means I might end up with a richer gas on my left. So I started wondering about using inline rebreather style valves on bailouts. Then reg position and body orientation would always be the same, regardless of which side it was on.

So what would be the disadvantages? I am posting this in both the sidemount and rebreather forums.
 
I'm not sure what issue you're trying to solve, but I use Omniswivel inline valves on all my sidemounted BO bottles. Valves are all the way on, inline valves are off, first stages have OPVs...no gas loss issues, which is why I use them.
 
Sorry, Doc. I guess I wasn't clear. Not inline shutoffs. I'm talking about the tank valve. Like the ones on your rEvo onboard bottles vs. a standard DIN valve.

This valve-i.jpg

as opposed to this


valve-k.jpg
 
I could not say there would be much difference in overall function, they are DIN valves. I've put regular regulators on my diluent valves before with no problem. The question would be would the 1st stage on the inline valve, offer the hose routing needed/ wanted for the desired configuration.
 
That's a good point, Tammy. But I don't think the routing or orientation of the hoses would change just by rotating the first stage 90 degrees. If the reg has good hose routing longitudinal to the bottle, it would still be the same. But it's a good thing to double check. I'm just wondering why no one has bothered with this solution to needing left and right hand valves..

Ken
 
It seems like an good solution for all sidemount configurations.
 
Unfortunately, Dave, I'm not that bright. There must be something wrong or others would have been doing this all along.
 
so I think there's pros and cons to everything, including this.

In my experience one of the main reason everyone is using standard manifold valves is most of the original sidemount guys were using broken down doubles, super cheap to plug them, not so much to replace the valves.

Regarding the siding of the bottles, most of the mounting solutions are sided as well, so to make them universal you'd have to put the rigging inline with either the first stage or the valve knob, not a big deal, but it could put the knob and regulator at funky positions. If you think about loop bungees, they have to grab onto something on the outside edge to put rotational torque on the bottle, the bungee pulls from the outside against the tank rigging in the inside. This helps to keep the tank pretty stable against your body, the farther forward the bottom leash is, the more rotational tension is against the bungee since it is fighting the weight of the tank. For those valves to work, you'd have the first stage up against your body with the bungee over the valve knob per standard loop bungee routing.

If you didn't go this route and went with Razor/Dive Rite original/Hollis type bungees where you wrap it around the tank neck then it would work but for optimum SPG routing you either have the first stage face down for lollipop style routing, or straight up for SPG down the tank type routing. You can get away with first stage down and SPG's down with super thin/light or tied up SPG's, but it doesn't work so well when the first stage is against your body. This is more important in cave diving where the Bogaerts/Sorenson style hose routing mimics that of backmount so the turret has to be free on the left side to allow the hose to pivot to straight up and on the right where it is free to go forward during OOA type scenarios. Razor style inflator hose routing requires the fifth port to be pointing towards the center of your chest as well. With the above valves in either scenario you would have the regulators at a funky angle with the fifth port point straight down, so wouldn't work for Razor style hose routing, or you'd have the valve knobs pointing straight up or straight down, with up obviously not working well and down would mean having to change bungee style.

For rebreather bailout/stage/deco bottles where hose routing is less critical than with back gas, you can tie your SPG's up or use button gauges for bailout/deco, then these would be pretty nifty since they also don't require use of standard bungee attachments. You could have first stage up with the valve down and have it rotated into your chest a bit from the bungee and get creative with hose snaking, or first stage down and use the regular style bungees and wrap around the bottle, or ring bungees from Dive Rite all with great success.

I had thought about using these types of valves before and when talking to some other guys about them a few years ago, the current manifold style seemed to make better sense. Best thing though would be for you to try them if you have a few valves laying around and report back, don't know anyone who has actually done it, just theorized on it.
 
Lots of great stuff, tbone. I thought about the fact that the rigging will have to be lined up with knob or outlet, but I think it might still work. Put bungees around knob from the outside facing down and it should pull them out a bit. Might take some playing around. At worst, the rigging would not be in line, but would just have to be rotated to turn a right side tank into a left. Easy fix.

I think I'll pick up a few valves and give it a try. So far no one has said it's completely moronic.


iPhone. iTypo. iApologize.
 
certainly not moronic and I think I remember you saying you use ring bungees which takes a lot of the potential issues out of the equation especially since you aren't likely to be manipulating your valves during the dive, turn the on, flip the shutoff, and off you go, run first stages either way. Might be able to run the stage rigging where the clips can be flipped to either side of the valve knob and just run it up. If you have to shut off, just grab the first stage with your opposite hand and shut the valve off.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/teric/

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