Issues with Fantasea Bigeye Lens for G10

[Puffer Fish]

Inon lenses do have corner distortion and typical fisheye distortion but not as bad as what we are seeing in these pictures posted by Mr. Puffer.

Typical result with Inon 100WAL with dome:

But you cannot put the Inon lenses on a G10 so if wishes were dollars or however it goes, seems like these lenses are better than nothing.

N

I think you are correct... lovely image...had that been with my camera, the edges would have had huge lens flare (from the sun light), and all the sides would have been blurred...

 

[gumbo717]

Can anyone give a good recommendation for this lens?

 

[Roko]

It's not all bad, I've taken some decent photos with it, but it definitely does flare in the corners really easily. I haven't had a chance to use it since this summer (I just moved to a place with decent diving a couple weeks ago), but I'm hoping to take it out in the next little while for some wide angle shots. I think rotating the shade to block out my strobe will help.

The lense does make a big difference in terms of photo angle, and I do like it for that, but then again it's the only really feasible option for the WP-DC28 that there was this summer when I bought it. I'll take some more photos with it in the next little while and post the results.

 

[v4vikster]

ok, so reading all the posts in this thread, i still dont know what to do. Is there anyone out there who has the most recent version of this lens, with the extra bungys and better seat? And is there anyone other than Jack, (no offense Jack!) who has no flare/fogging issues?
Thanks

 

[Puffer Fish]

ok, so reading all the posts in this thread, i still dont know what to do. Is there anyone out there who has the most recent version of this lens, with the extra bungys and better seat? And is there anyone other than Jack, (no offense Jack!) who has no flare/fogging issues?
Thanks

I revisited the lens and it's issues this last week.

I believe that the issue of fogging and lens flare has been all jumbled together, so that the two issues are mixed together.

This last week, some of the conditions were cooler on the surface, so lens fogging underwater would not be an issue... and amazingly...one gets this:

In fact, without fogging, the lens flare issue is non-existant..unless you point the camera at the sun. But have any fogging and it shows up in a huge way.

Even the really blurry corners were due to fogging, as once the inside is fogged, the far edges show the issue much worse than the center.

Here is a crop from the center of image, when the lens is not fogged:

Note: Sorry for the backscatter, the fish was a fair distance from the camera

Those blurry corners? Again, without fogging here is an image not cropped:

So where is the fogging coming from?

Well, there would seem to be only two possibilities... they made with with moisture inside (which would seem to be possible given their directions for handling the lens) or the lens leaks.

As I was doing several deeper dives... I know how to determine if it leaked... just take it on one of the dives over 100 ft... so I did..and I now have a lens with a lot of water in it.

Given the number of people that have had the lens flare issue.. and their very odd directions....I think they must have a lot of lens that leaked.. as in design flaw or assembly flaw... and because it shows up looking like some sort of lens flare, have tried to address it with handling and use directions....which does not address the issue.

Perhaps they all will leak at 120 ft...or just some....don't know.

So, knowing what I know now....this is not a bad lens... if you have one that does not leak...would be nice to know if they have fixed this issue.

Looking back, my first use of the lens was on a 90 ft dive, with warm air and cold water... not surprised, under those conditions, that the water that leaked in also fogged the lens. This last week it was cold air and warmer water, and the water now just puddled inside (will get picture tonight).

I know Jack and the gang would prefer this to be a setting or handling issue...but I have not changed strobe position or any settings... and fogged versus not fogged seems to account for all the problems people are having.

Oh, and the G10 can take far better images than the fuji (a camera I really like, by the way), you just have to have a clear lens:

 

[elanarchist]

I've done around 50 dives with one over the past two months, all around Sogod Bay, S. Leyte. My setup is with G10 & single YS110a; shot 1000s of pictures with the setup before I got the Bigeye; now shots that I used to struggle with like sea fans and reefscapes are now possible. Of course there's times I'd like to get wider but for $220 I won't complain. The YS110a is a good match for the coverage at full dump though a second strobe would be nice. No leak or fogging issues but I do often get cloudy corners and lens glare but it's the photographer, and I crop it out or fix in post production or just leave it as-is if it's not that distracting. I like the fisheye effect. Wide angle macro can be great for some shots, though macro images are sharper without the lens. The wide angle pics on my flickr album are done using it, check out www flickr com/photos/26582061@N06/ (someday I'll make it to 5 posts so I can post links too)

I'm looking forward to getting some whaleshark shots, it should work well.

 

[SharonRainis]

Dear Puffer Fish and Elanarchist,

First, I would like to thank you both for sharing those great images on this thread and on Flicker.

Puffer Fish, I'm glad that you have managed to achieve such wonderful results with your BigEye Lens and that you have managed to successfully cope with the issues you have previously brought up regarding this lens.

In general, I would say you got it right, when stating that the lens fog and the lens flare are two different issues and there are different ways to easily overcome both.

As stated on one of my previous posts here, a lens flare is often encountered when using dome ports of any kind underwater, due to the reflection of the sun or the strobe on the lens. I encounter such glares myself with my DSLR dome ports as well. Learning how to use a dome port or lens underwater does involve practicing a few special techniques, but the good news is that it's all very simple. I hope you will find the following tips helpful:

1. It is always useful to make sure that the wings of the BigEye Lens are positioned in an angle that blocks both the strobe output and the sun. If required, the angle of the wings can be adjusted by simply rotating them, making sure that they are blocking the sun and direct output of the strobe. Images in which the sun is captured can be usually taken during mornings or afternoons, when the sun is not as strong as during the day. In general, the sun will have a much softer and successful effect during those hours of the day and will also cause less of a flare.

2. Make sure that the strobe is not positioned towards the lens. When shooting a nearby subject, for instance, it is better to position the strobe a little bit in front of the camera housing rather than behind it (so the light doesn't reflect on the BigEye Lens), or if you choose to position the strobe behind the camera housing, make sure it's not pointed towards the lens, but a little bit tilted outside.

As for the BigEye Lens fogging up, please note that it makes a HUGE difference if the BigEye is stored in a dry and cool place prior the dive. I previously thought that this was just a "to be on the safe side" kind of tip, but my experience with BigEye Lenses, as well as compact digital housings, proved otherwise. For as long as you can prior to entering the water, keep the BigEye Lens (even with the housing it is installed on) in a dry, cool and shaded area. A padded bag with some silica gel packs inside can serve as a perfect solution in this case. If this bag can be stored inside an air conditioned room prior to the dive, even better!

However, even if you don't have a completely dry and cool place to store the lens in prior to entering the water and your BigEye Lens starts fogging up at the beginning of the dive due to temperature differences, please note that if you keep diving with it for about 10 minutes, the fog will disappear and then, Elanarchist, Photoshoping will not be required in order to remove those foggy areas...

Regarding the leaking issue brought up by Puffer Fish, please note that all BigEye Lenses are assembled in a special lab, in which temperature, humidity and other relevant parameters are very carefully controlled. In addition, these lenses are designed to be perfectly watertight sealed up to a depth of 60m/200 feet and no water drops should accumulate inside. We have never encountered such a situation before, in which water leaked into the lens, but if a BigEye Lens has been damaged and is therefore no longer perfectly watertight sealed, it should be serviced. In this case, please contact us at info@fantasea.com and we will advise regarding a service center the lens should be sent to for inspection and replacement.

Since the BigEye Lens has been released, we have received many positive feedbacks regarding its performance and it has become a very popular product. We are fully committed to devotionally maintain our high standards regarding the performance of this product in order to ensure your full satisfaction and excellent experience with it.

In the meantime, we wish you wonderful and enjoyable 2010 dives!

Best Wishes,

Sharon Rainis
Fantasea Line Content Manager

 

[Hawkwood]

.....Snip......

1. It is always useful to make sure that the wings of the BigEye Lens are positioned in an angle that blocks both the strobe output and the sun. If required, the angle of the wings can be adjusted by simply rotating them, making sure that they are blocking the sun and direct output of the strobe. Images in which the sun is captured can be usually taken during mornings or afternoons, when the sun is not as strong as during the day. In general, the sun will have a much softer and successful effect during those hours of the day and will also cause less of a flare.

....Snip....

Sharon,

This may seem painfully obvious to some, and I may be over-thinking it, but just how do you "simply rotate" the wings. There are four set-screws holding the shade in place. The lens came with a hex key for those set screws.

Are you suggesting that one permanently removes the set-screws to allow the shade to rotate in whatever position you need at the time? I found that to rotate the shade I had to back the set-screws completely out before the shade would rotate easily.

When I tried to tighten the screws back in again I found they would not screw completely flush with the shade. Upon removing the shade to see what was the matter, I discovered that there was an "o" ring that that was was preventing the set-screws from seating all the way.

The "o" ring was split in four places, with gaps were the set-screws were originally positioned. Each of the gaps was placed at 90 degrees around the barrel of the lens.

Just how do you recommend setting up the shade to "simply rotate".

 

[SharonRainis]

Dear Hawkwood,

The BigEye Lens wings can be rotated without having the screws removed. When the BigEye Lens is mounted on your housing lens port, simply hold the wings and push them against the housing. At the same time, rotate them around the lens, till they have reached the desired position. In order to prevent the wings from unintentionally changing position, some friction is required in order to rotate them, but this can be easily done by following the method I've just mentioned.

The Alan key you have received with your BigEye Lens was included only for periodic servicing and there is no need to regularly use it, nor to disassemble the screws.

If you encounter any further problems with this issue, please don't hesitate to contact me at info@fantasea.com.

Best Wishes,

Sharon Rainis
Fantasea Line Content Manager

 

[Hawkwood]

Sharon,

Thanks for the very quick reply. Now I know I won't harm anything by just giving it a firm twist!