DC53
Guest
Beware of the amount of detail below and thanks for reading through it…
I am in the process of setting up and learning doubles. Currently my setup uses two steel HP 120’s as they are the only tanks that I have in an identical pair. However for the future I am wondering about input on tanks. I get lots of input although I am not sure how much of it is totally informed vs tradition and so want to solicit more information. For intended use, I am starting tech training, and while I anticipate that most of my dives will remain recreational / light deco, I anticipate expanding to include more challenging dives and a possible move south might also include cave training, although that is still a ways off. I am physically fit but older and need to be aware of weight issues, although I can walk around on land wearing the double 120’s without much discomfort, and I can pick them up alone & put in cars or on benches ok.
Anyway, (for possible future tanks) everyone seems to favor LP steel tanks. My priorities for tank choice are less weight on land, weight underwater depending on exposure suit needed, and more air underwater. The touted LP 95’s weigh 38.7 lbs on land-empty- and buoyancy-full- underwater is negative 8.3 lbs. They need to be overfilled 10% to reach the 95 cu ft and they aren’t supposed to be overfilled after 5 years old. (Pardon to those who know all this, I’m just clarifying details.) The HP 100’s could be short filled (but usually aren’t) and weigh only 33 lbs empty on land, negative 10 lbs -full- underwater. The HP 120’s have huge gas, weigh 38 lbs empty on land and 11 lbs negative underwater. I like long and skinny tanks as for some reason I need lots of weight “forward” in order to float level.
As far as insulation and weight needed, much of the time I dive drysuit and with the necessary insulation I still need 35 lbs of weight with a steel 120, and that’s squeezed with an empty BCD at the end. (Please, it’s not an issue of a newer diver -130 dives- that is overweighted; I need only 7 lbs in salt water with an Alum 80 and a 3 mm wetsuit and hood.) Obviously if I were to get the chance to dive doubles in “warm” water say 5 mm I would need air in the BCD but otherwise most of the time the extra weight in the tank means less lead on my body.
With this info, is it just tradition that speaks so much against the HP tanks or is there some reason that I am missing? Also given that I can’t buy and unlimited number of tanks, if I were to stay with HP tanks, what are thoughts about choosing 120’s as opposed to 100’s?
Thanks for any input!
I am in the process of setting up and learning doubles. Currently my setup uses two steel HP 120’s as they are the only tanks that I have in an identical pair. However for the future I am wondering about input on tanks. I get lots of input although I am not sure how much of it is totally informed vs tradition and so want to solicit more information. For intended use, I am starting tech training, and while I anticipate that most of my dives will remain recreational / light deco, I anticipate expanding to include more challenging dives and a possible move south might also include cave training, although that is still a ways off. I am physically fit but older and need to be aware of weight issues, although I can walk around on land wearing the double 120’s without much discomfort, and I can pick them up alone & put in cars or on benches ok.
Anyway, (for possible future tanks) everyone seems to favor LP steel tanks. My priorities for tank choice are less weight on land, weight underwater depending on exposure suit needed, and more air underwater. The touted LP 95’s weigh 38.7 lbs on land-empty- and buoyancy-full- underwater is negative 8.3 lbs. They need to be overfilled 10% to reach the 95 cu ft and they aren’t supposed to be overfilled after 5 years old. (Pardon to those who know all this, I’m just clarifying details.) The HP 100’s could be short filled (but usually aren’t) and weigh only 33 lbs empty on land, negative 10 lbs -full- underwater. The HP 120’s have huge gas, weigh 38 lbs empty on land and 11 lbs negative underwater. I like long and skinny tanks as for some reason I need lots of weight “forward” in order to float level.
As far as insulation and weight needed, much of the time I dive drysuit and with the necessary insulation I still need 35 lbs of weight with a steel 120, and that’s squeezed with an empty BCD at the end. (Please, it’s not an issue of a newer diver -130 dives- that is overweighted; I need only 7 lbs in salt water with an Alum 80 and a 3 mm wetsuit and hood.) Obviously if I were to get the chance to dive doubles in “warm” water say 5 mm I would need air in the BCD but otherwise most of the time the extra weight in the tank means less lead on my body.
With this info, is it just tradition that speaks so much against the HP tanks or is there some reason that I am missing? Also given that I can’t buy and unlimited number of tanks, if I were to stay with HP tanks, what are thoughts about choosing 120’s as opposed to 100’s?
Thanks for any input!