Macro adapter recommendation for G10 Ikelite

[lrossel]

Hi guys!

Now that Ikelite listened all our claims and has available the 67 mm macro adapter for the Canon G10 Housing, I have to decide what adapter is the best option.

As far I know, it sounds that there are 3 options:

1) Subsee +10
2) Epoque DML-2
3) Inon UCL-165M67

I would like to read your opinions about them, and what would be the best option to get super macro shots with the Canon G10 and Ikelite Housing.

At this point, I made my own 67mm port adapter for the housing, and using a +4 diopter to get macro shots, but I believe that with some most dedicated adapter I'll get better results.

What do you think?

Here is a example of one of the best macro shots I got with my handmade solution:

 

[Warmwater Wank]

I--My experience is only w/ the SubSee, the older +10 one. Due to it's smaller diameter (approx. 34mm) you can't really zoom back much before it vignettes. This means using it pretty much at the G-10's 140mm equivalent focal length, which is sometimes overkill for casual stuff, but certainly fun on the real small stuff. I've ordered ReefNet's newer 52mm diopters (+5 & +10) and expect to have much more flexibility in image size from both the magnification change and the ability to zoom more.

Keri at ReefNet has cobbled up a dual gate adapter for the Canon WP-DC28 housing with their swing-away arms, a feature that is a real strong point for me. (They can custom make the adapters to fit any housing.) How are you attaching your +4? For me, the swing-away arms are a real selling point. Your photo looks good, just wondering if removing the close up lens for regular shots is a pain.

The glass on the SubSee is superb, no loss of lens quality or soft edges. ReefNet is supposed to start shipping the new diopters this month. I have no experience with the other systems you mentioned, though I would expect there to be no optical complaints. I suspect it comes down to ease of use and magnification variety. // ww

Blennie on Bonaire

[/IMG]

 

[lrossel]

Thanks for your quick repply. I saw some fo your macro shots and they are really great!

I have a picture where you can see my hand made solution at the bottom of the picture. It is very simple to take it out underwater (because is just rubber).

Do you have any issues to focus when you are using the +10 subsee? what about the depht of field?

When I'm using my +4 diopter, is not easy to focus because the depht of field is reduced a lot. I don't know too much of optics to explain you better.

I really appreciate your advice.

 

[lrossel]

Warmwater Wank, here is another picture of my handmade adapter for 67mm thread.

 

[Warmwater Wank]

I--Couldn't see the photo on your last one but hey, if your setup works... I think if you want "super-macro" (and I'm not sure if that is a well defined specification) either a system that let's you stack diopters (threadable) or the +10 from ReefNet is the answer.

Getting as close as the +10 magnifier allows certainly limits depth of field, especially w/ something like the G-10 that only goes to f/8 due to diffraction limitations on those small sensors (dslr's go much higher on f/stops of course). Still, the focus ease & accuracy surprised me. Sometimes I turn on the focus light of my strobe but usually I don't even have to mess with it. I figure the depth is what it is and look for subjects that it will work with. The camera doesn't have to be in macro mode w/ the SubSee and in fact that seems to have little effect on focus distance.

Typically I move back and forth a bit and the system finds it's focus. I get some misses but more often than not the camera delivers on focus (not that I always deliver on composition or subject choice...). Truth is I'm happy the system does as good as it does, since I can't always see the screen well enough to over ride things, so I rarely go into manual focus! Manual exposure is how I shoot but for focus I leave the camera in Servo AF and the AF mode in Continuous. I like the magnified center image the G-10 pops up when the "AF Frame" is set for "Flexi Zone", it does help confirm things. // ww

 

[lrossel]

Thanks for your detailed explanation.

With this setup I can stack up to +7 diopter (I have a +4, +2 and +1 lens, all 67mm threaded), but I have to be very careful in order to avoid air bubbles between the lens underwater.

I almost use the same setup you are using, but I'm shoting in Av, not manual. Our waters rarely are calm enough to give you time to adjust Aperture and Shutter Speed. I try to use TTL capabilities of the camera. At least 6 of 10 shots get a decent exposure.

Let me show you some other examples using the +4 diopter:

All taken in TTL Av mode, f/8 1/60 ISO 80. Not cropped. The first four look darker because I moved the exposure dial to -1/3 by mistake... But I liked the final result.

Thanks again!

 

[Maddog59]

I--Couldn't see the photo on your last one but hey, if your setup works... I think if you want "super-macro" (and I'm not sure if that is a well defined specification) either a system that let's you stack diopters (threadable) or the +10 from ReefNet is the answer.

Getting as close as the +10 magnifier allows certainly limits depth of field, especially w/ something like the G-10 that only goes to f/8 due to diffraction limitations on those small sensors (dslr's go much higher on f/stops of course). Still, the focus ease & accuracy surprised me. Sometimes I turn on the focus light of my strobe but usually I don't even have to mess with it. I figure the depth is what it is and look for subjects that it will work with. The camera doesn't have to be in macro mode w/ the SubSee and in fact that seems to have little effect on focus distance.

Typically I move back and forth a bit and the system finds it's focus. I get some misses but more often than not the camera delivers on focus (not that I always deliver on composition or subject choice...). Truth is I'm happy the system does as good as it does, since I can't always see the screen well enough to over ride things, so I rarely go into manual focus! Manual exposure is how I shoot but for focus I leave the camera in Servo AF and the AF mode in Continuous. I like the magnified center image the G-10 pops up when the "AF Frame" is set for "Flexi Zone", it does help confirm things. // ww

WW,
How far are you shooting from you subject with the +10. I like the concept and I think I might go this way for my macro lens setup but I am wondering what distances you shoot and what flash you use?


Regards
Peter

 

[Warmwater Wank]

Irossel--Hey, if AV works stick with it. I can say, however, that Manual is no big deal to shoot in. First off, the shutter speed stays set, though I might suggest using higher speeds than you are. The shutter speed really doesn't affect a flash exposure, except if there is strong ambient light in the background. In close work this typically isn't the case and you do gain some advantage in having the background go to black where the strobe isn't punching to (I typically shoot at 1/1000th or higher and use ISO100). Of course the higher shutter speeds also help avoid "ghosting" (blurring) with fish etc. moving fast, out where the strobe isn't quite freezing the action.

The other notion about Manual though is you don't mess all that much with the f/stop either--at least not after you figure out the common distance range you tend to work in for close-ups. This means I'm tending to stick to f/8 and (to answer Peter's 2d question) using the output adjusment on my Sea & Sea YS110-Alpha. Again, not much change, kind of a "Gee, I'm closer on this one, think I'll go to 3/4's power...". You get used to it in about 1 dive--or less!

I measured and w/ the SubSee +10 on a Canon WP-DC28 housing I'm about 4" from the housing, which means about 3" or a bit less from the front of the SubSee lens. You do have to pretty much zoom all the way out to a 140mm equilvalent focal length on the G-10 to use the old style SubSee magnifier or else it vignettes on the Canon housing. When I get the new larger lens (52mm of glass vs about 34mm) I will be curious to find out how much more zoom range I get, I'm sure I'll appreciate the added control it will give me on composition. Nice shots Irossel and yeah, kind of easy to bump that exposure compensation dial. Another reason I apprecaite shooting in Manual--if it's bumped it won't affect my exposures! // ww

 

[lrossel]

WW, I´ll follow your advice during the tomorrows dive using manual instead of Av. Let see what I get.

This season is when the plankton blooms in our Chilean coasts, and is the best time for macro shots.

I'll look for the subsee +10, It looks like a great choice.

Thanks again.
:cool3:

 

[coralcruiser]

Great info on the thread... I just got the new 10+ subsee today and head for Lembeh in a month.

I have the G10 in September and took it to Fiji in October... left my Inon s-2000 at home because I wanted to get used to the new camera (definitely need a strobe with this camera because the housing blocks off most of the internal flash).

Would certainly appreciate any and all suggestions for working with the camera, strobe and new subsee!! Don't know when I will get back to Lembeh and I basically put this whole outfit together for this trip.

Feel free to pm or email me with any specific suggestions if you don't want to post them.