Maintaining depth without visual reference?

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I use my ears to maintain depth. I can tell by how they pop if I am ascending.

Also, switch to meters :) much better depth resolution (10cm increments) so you can see if you are moving sooner.

As a third thing I will focus in on some particulate in the water and holding with a half breath see if I am moving or not. Adjust buoyancy as required.

Best practise...night dives with blue water deco !

I agree with this guy, use your ears, don't equalize them below a certain depth so you know if you feel pain you're at around about that depth.
 
I agree with this guy, use your ears, don't equalize them below a certain depth so you know if you feel pain you're at around about that depth.

Exactly, barotrama is always the go to solution for this particular skills issue (wtf?).
 
With <2ft viz, I would consider moving into touch contact.

If not, keep a close eye on your gauge while being aware of your ears for change in pressure, and your buddy of course.
 
I often dive in areas where we are in mid-water during decompression stops or while navigating and swimming. Here are a few tricks to maintain depth:

1. Create an artificial horizon/instrument panel. Assume a head all the way back (in its natural range of motion), chest to knees flat, fins flat, position while pulling your arms up high at the shoulders to align them with your ears. Imagine Michael Phelps flip turning off the wall at the Olympics for streamlining or a freediver ascent position. Both these body positions are really slick. The only problem is you cannot see forward if you are looking down. So, pick your head up to look forward. Now, your hands are in the way. Open your arms wider from the needle or bow they are forming to be able to see, but do not drop them. You should be able to see your gauges and maintain a horizontal angle of attack. Last, make anti-silt/anti-damage kicking a habit so instead of flutter kicking like a swimmer or freediver, use a comfortable anti-silt propulsion technique.

2. Sight over your gauges. Instead of staring at your depth/time/direction information, look out into the water column. You should be able to easily reference your instrument panel. What depth is displayed on your gauge? Do you want to hold that depth or adjust up or down? Breathing is the key here. Don't let the challenge of "blue water" (or mud water/dark water) diving stress you. Relax and breathe with a deep inhalation followed by an immediate long, slow exhalation. Watch your gauge. Are you inhaling so deeply that you are rising? Or, exhaling so deeply that you are sinking? Learn to cycle your breathing just a bit to catch yourself before you sink or float. Slowly sip your gas and slowly blow it out. Don't fill or empty your lungs so much that the numbers change on your depth gauge.

3. When swimming, be mindful of using a good kick technique that will push water behind you. If your kicks push water upward or downward instead of behind you, you will find yourself swimming at an angle. This will challenge your breathing to compensate for the depth changes caused by your kicks.

4. Use the tools in your environment. Once you lock into a depth, don't clear your ears. If you begin to feel pressure in your ears, you know you are sinking below your target depth. Inhale deeper to rise. Reference your gauge. Once you are back at your target depth, concentrate on breathing to maintain it. Rising is a little trickier because your ears will be less helpful. Small pressure changes aren't as noticeable as a large pressure change when floating upward. Your gauge will be a better guide. Keep good team awareness. If your teammates are skilled at maintaining depth in blue water, they can be a pretty decent visual reference. Look for anything in the environment that can act as a visual reference. A large particle in the water, cloudy water below or above a thermocline or temperature gradient, bottom or wall features, anchor lines. Anything fixed that doesn't move or move much is nice. You can reference it if hovering or pick points to reach while swimming. If you have a distinct thermocline that is in the range of depth you are trying to hold, you can even use feeling temperature changes as a clue.

5. Minimize movement. If your feet scull at 0 degrees trim angle, but you can hold them still at 5 degrees feet down, why not adjust your trim to allow you not to scull? Trim doesn't have to be "perfect" it needs to be "good." Absent minded sculling of the feet can push you up or down. When you scull your feet make sure it is deliberate such as to create a little lift employing the backward kick or to maintain direction.

6. Practice holding completely still at safety/deco stops and practice navigating mid-water. Go to a safe training environment with still water such as a lake or quarry and practice, practice, practice until you find your personal style and tricks that help you easily maintain position.

While what I posted above seems like a lot, it really just comes down to TEAM (reference buddies and make sure they are comfortable and their gear is in place), BUOYANCY (breathe correctly and cycle breathing to aid in maintaining depth), TRIM (good body position and propulsion), EVERYTHING ELSE (reference compass, gauges, visual or sensory cues, and perform any task slowly). Breathing is the key.
 
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I was thinking about this other day. In a drift dive, I like to shoot an SMB. But what if the water's choppy at the surface?

How about something that is neutrally buoyant that can be deployed on the fly as a visual reference? Water bottle maybe? You'll still need to check your depth as it too can move up and down, but generally not as bad as at the surface.
 
I was thinking about this other day. In a drift dive, I like to shoot an SMB. But what if the water's choppy at the surface?

How about something that is neutrally buoyant that can be deployed on the fly as a visual reference? Water bottle maybe? You'll still need to check your depth as it too can move up and down, but generally not as bad as at the surface.

Choppy water is fine. Your depth gauge measures "distance to the air above you," not "distance above the floor below you". We call this the absolute pressure, which consists of the weight of the water above you (hydrostatic pressure) and the weight of the air above the water (atmospheric pressure).

In choppy water, an SMB will rise in the peaks of a wave and drop in the trough of the waves, and you will rise and fall with it. However, you will have a consistent amount of water above your head, which means you're effectively maintaining your depth because the weight of the water above you doesn't change.

This is the same principle that makes a Jon line work.
 
In choppy water, an SMB will rise in the peaks of a wave and drop in the trough of the waves, and you will rise and fall with it. However, you will have a consistent amount of water above your head, which means you're effectively maintaining your depth because the weight of the water above you doesn't change.

This is the same principle that makes a Jon line work.

I would never willing let an SMB treat me like a rag doll in chop. It would throw your buoyancy off and send you right to the surface.
 
I'm not going to mention the basic stuff (trim, buoyancy, weighting) because I'm pretty sure your platform will be fine.

Since I'm diving a lot in the North Sea (typically bad vis no reference ascends) I tend to do the following:

- Stop looking too much at your depthgauge, in some ways by focussing too much on the gauge you are micromanaging the problem too much. I clearly remember our Instructor taking away our depth gauges during T1 ascend drills from 100 ft, because we were focussing too much on the gauge and not enough on the environment as a way to gage depth.

- Use particles in the water... they tend not to move vertically but mostly horizontal. I'm assuming salt water environments, in ponds and lakes there tend to be less organisms in the water. So if you see the particles drift in a vertical motion you are moving in that plane. If particles are not visible enough, play around with the focus of your main light. If you broaden the beem more particles will show up for a better reference.

- Someone already mentioned this. When adjusting depth (3-6 feet range) don't use your wing but just swim back up or down. Your buyancy was good at the specified depth, so playing around with the wing has no use. Just swim back to the desired depth and your buyancy will be good again.

- Don't be anal about depth for deco purposes... if you are in a 3 foot range you are nice and dandy.

- A bit of current always helps. If you have slight forward motion (swimming / scootering against current) this will make keeping depth easier.

Finally 2 ft vis? That is really bad... meaning you are in touch contact with your team? Typical worst North Sea vis is 6ft.
 
practice...
a good thing to do is practice shooting bags at a set depth - keep the variance in depth as tight as you can get it (if you start at 15ffw ..stay there)...

Go slow and it will become second nature.

Maintaining a set depth is really all about having a stable platform to work from.

its actually easier to do it at first if your "occupied" so to speak and your other skill your working on will become polished as well.

When we get board, out come the bags and we shoot and re-shoot them while staying stationary (just fill them enough to get them to the surface, it makes it easier to pull them down and re-load them)
 
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