Hi, I just bought my mdx300 seaandsea for d300 nikon. My problem is when I dive with the housing to take some photo, all the buttons funtion is not working accept the 'ON' 'OFF'. On land, all the function buttons working fine. Tried 'on' and 'off' again but still the same. Anyone experience this before? Thanks
Mdx300 seaandsea problem
- Thread starter scubbie
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Have you taken the rubber eyepiece and clear screen protector off before loading the camera?
They will cause misalignment of the camera within the housing.
Jack
They will cause misalignment of the camera within the housing.
Jack
I'm using Ys110a with latest TTL convertor (SEA&SEA) for nikon. Still can capture by pressing the shutter and e both strobes fire. Cant adjust e shutter, aperture or manual mode speed. if it is TTL problem how doI rectified it. Even i never on my ttl my buttons still not working except On Off n shutter button.
Scubbie,
The Setting Precautions in the YS Converter / N instructions cautions against not turning the converter off at all while being used. There are some instructions on avoiding the problem with the camera not reactivating if the auto off metering operates while the converter is off. The D300default for auto-off delay on the meter is 6 seconds so locking up will happen quickly.
The Auto-off delay can be adjusted up to no-limit in Custom Setting c2 from the camera menu.
This seems to have fixed the problem for me and I can now switch the converter off without problems. I previously discussed this problem in the following thread.
http://www.scubaboard.com/forums/nikon-niche/290802-sea-sea-ttl-ys-converter-n.html
As indicated in that thread, if you want to shoot without strobes, you need to switch off both the converter and the strobes. The strobes will still fire without the converter being on.
Hope this helps
Treb
The Setting Precautions in the YS Converter / N instructions cautions against not turning the converter off at all while being used. There are some instructions on avoiding the problem with the camera not reactivating if the auto off metering operates while the converter is off. The D300default for auto-off delay on the meter is 6 seconds so locking up will happen quickly.
The Auto-off delay can be adjusted up to no-limit in Custom Setting c2 from the camera menu.
This seems to have fixed the problem for me and I can now switch the converter off without problems. I previously discussed this problem in the following thread.
http://www.scubaboard.com/forums/nikon-niche/290802-sea-sea-ttl-ys-converter-n.html
As indicated in that thread, if you want to shoot without strobes, you need to switch off both the converter and the strobes. The strobes will still fire without the converter being on.
Hope this helps
Treb
Scubbie,
A futrher thought on your problem. You can check whether it is the converter causing your problem by trying without the converter. The YS110a strobe can be plugged directly into the port next to the converter port on the housing. Don't attach the converter at the same time or it may try and take control of the camera setting.
The strobe will work fine in the manual configuration, it may take a few shots to get the camera fstop and strobe power correct (I would probably try speed setting of 1/250 first with the ISO at 200). The manual exposure calculation table from the YS110a Manual gives a bit of initial guidance. For ISO 200 this gives f16 at 1m as a starting point with strobe at full power, you will probably find that you need a stop less, depending on water clarity.
On the strobe you need to set to either Manual 1 or 2 with Slave off.
A bit of messing around but it might resolve whether it is the converter causing your problem.
Cheers
Ken
A futrher thought on your problem. You can check whether it is the converter causing your problem by trying without the converter. The YS110a strobe can be plugged directly into the port next to the converter port on the housing. Don't attach the converter at the same time or it may try and take control of the camera setting.
The strobe will work fine in the manual configuration, it may take a few shots to get the camera fstop and strobe power correct (I would probably try speed setting of 1/250 first with the ISO at 200). The manual exposure calculation table from the YS110a Manual gives a bit of initial guidance. For ISO 200 this gives f16 at 1m as a starting point with strobe at full power, you will probably find that you need a stop less, depending on water clarity.
On the strobe you need to set to either Manual 1 or 2 with Slave off.
A bit of messing around but it might resolve whether it is the converter causing your problem.
Cheers
Ken
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