Mounting more than 2 strobes?

[KeithG]

Anyone have real world feedback on using / mounting more than 2 strobes?

2 strobes are very common. One on the left arm, one on the right arm.

I have read posts about photogs who handheld a third strobe in order to get a desired effect that 2 would not provide. I have seen a pic of a rig with 4 strobes: normal left and right arm with a triple clamp holding 2 strobes on each end.

I am interested in feedback on both WHY and HOW.

For me I have some why's
- more light: 4 gn22 is same as 2 gn 33 (if my math is correct) great for wide angle...
- faster recycle time: more strobes means less power per strobe, means faster recycle
- artistic effect: 1 strobe, 2 strobe, 3 strobe,...gives different lighting effect
- ...

but I want to learn more about how...
- i tried 3 arms once and found i felt like i was wrestling with an octopus

 

[tursiops]

Almost; 4xGN22 is 2xGN31.
More than the amount of light, maybe, is the way one could position the lights for coverage.
Only faster recycle, of course, if you re not running them all full out.

I agree about wrestling with three arms. I'm about to try a snoot, and expecting to also wrestle.

I'm thinking about carrying a third strobe with a slave pickup on it, to be able to be placed (for example) behind something to backlight it. But it won't be on an arm, just slipped to me until I need it.

 

[Searcaigh]

Funnily enough I have been thinking about this over the past couple of nights as I have quite a few spare old strobes kicking around (YS50 + older Ikelite 50s both with slave mode)

As I have been doing a lot of dives 50M+ this year and venturing into wide angle, I need more light to compensate for the lack of ambient light, so a couple of more strobes would be useful IMHO.

I did practice using another diver holding a slaved strobe without getting the effect I was really looking for as the other diver is not a photographer but I am still practicing and requires a lot of surface discussion prior to the dive as well some knowledge regarding the site, in this case a wreck.



Currently using two YS110a on full power at f5.6 and 200 ISO, the slaved strobe is also a YS110a but my daughter has permanently borrowed that one.

A lot more practice required but at depth on OC not much time to do many retakes.

 

[sea_ledford]

I use triple clamps to mount a strobe and video light on each arm. I wouldn't mount four strobes unless you need it for something VERY specific. If you regularly need faster recycling time, I would look at your shooting technique ("you" in the general sense, not directly referencing the OP), or get new batteries.

4 strobes will be a lot more versatile if two of them are off-camera, as mentioned above. Get some triggerfish, and you can do some really amazing lighting setups.

-Chris

 

[Searcaigh]

A friend of mine lit up some great dry cave shots just by placing several strobes around the cave. This is fine as he had plenty of time to set things up and re-take by trial and error, underwater is more challenging trying to signal to other divers where to direct the light.

 

[tursiops]

Ikelite makes optical slave triggers that plug right into their strobes, and have almost 180 deg viewing angles on the triggering light. They come with a cap that allows you to use a fiber cable directly into them. Nice.

 

[sea_ledford]

Ikelite makes optical slave triggers that plug right into their strobes, and have almost 180 deg viewing angles on the triggering light. They come with a cap that allows you to use a fiber cable directly into them. Nice.

Are those still available? I thought they discontinued them a few years ago. I have one and would love to get another, but the triggerfish might work better and are certainly smaller.

 

[tursiops]

Are those still available? I thought they discontinued them a few years ago. I have one and would love to get another, but the triggerfish might work better and are certainly smaller.

Yes, they are still available. I have one used Ikelite | Remote Optical Slave Converter for DS Strobes, which is a current item from Ikelite. I also have two new Ikelite | Underwater Camera Housings, Strobes, Flashlights and Accessories these are the older model, now replaced by the 4401.1. They both sell/sold new for $125 each. I'll offer my used 4403 for $75, the 4401s for $40 each, plus shipping. The 4401 really just converts the Ikelite electrical port to a fiber-optic port, but the 4403 converts the strobe to an off-camera slave, and works well. Although I still have a DS-50 (also for sale), I've sold my DS-125s so don't need these converters any more.

 

[KeithG]

Thanks for the feedback. I had not thought about converting my divebuddy into a strobe mule. I believe some pre-dive training will be required? For both of us!

My initial thought was "more strobes on lower power will cycle faster". Hence my desire to figure out how to carry more myself on my rig.

The idea of having my divebuddy provide additional illumination is intriguing. Especially on night dives. I can already picture a backlight night dive effect for the anchor off the divi in Bonaire.

I think we will need to practice a few shots in the dining room before hand. "Strobe Sherpa" has a nice ring! Maybe I need to buy her the t-shirt? Any suggestions on appropriate hand signals?

 

[Searcaigh]

Thanks for the feedback. I had not thought about converting my divebuddy into a strobe mule. I believe some pre-dive training will be required? For both of us!

Any suggestions on appropriate hand signals?

Pre dive training and signals are important

Move closer, up, down and stop are quite self explanatory

I use my hand like a gun to explain where to point the strobe, expecting my buddy to mirror my action, so if I point to my buddy I expect him / her to point back with the strobe.