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My First U/W Video!
- Thread starter Empty V
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OP
Empty V
Contributor
OP
Empty V
Contributor
Thanks Steve, appreciate it. I put up my 3rd and final Color Grading pass here: http://www.oocpromotions.com/thethi...r)-Hawaii Diving 2008-H.264 LAN Streaming.mov
I swapped out a shot, got rid of most of the purple, and really worked on saturation. This has been a great experience and I think I'm going to try it out here in so-cal next weekend for the first time. Heading out now to go get some magenta gel to make a green water filter, wish me luck!
Billy
smfcpacfp
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OP
Empty V
Contributor
Glad to hear it! :mooner: Here's a link to my housing with some slight mods I did on it. I'm using a Panasonic DVX100 with a Century Optics 0.6X wide angle adapter.
I was using a single light cannon with this rig but it ended up being more of a pain when I started color grading the video. The light it put out after white balancing and my makeshift filter looked extremely red, so I had to adjust for it. Although, I wouldn't have been able to get that shot with the white tip without it!
Billy
PerroneFord
Contributor
Hi Billy.
A lot of people have said some of the things I was gonna say, so I wont repeat them. I did want to add that in all of my videos I tag the wrecks with a name and location usually in the lower left (a la MTV) so that people like myself who don't know anything about these wrecks can at least know what they're called and where they are in case you generated interest in a trip there someday.
A lot of people have said some of the things I was gonna say, so I wont repeat them. I did want to add that in all of my videos I tag the wrecks with a name and location usually in the lower left (a la MTV) so that people like myself who don't know anything about these wrecks can at least know what they're called and where they are in case you generated interest in a trip there someday.
OP
Empty V
Contributor
That's a very interesting setup, super desaturated but still maintains detail. I'm not sure how that would translate underwater and I'm a 24P guy 
Thanks for the link, cool side by sides too.
Billy
Thanks for the link, cool side by sides too.Billy
PerroneFord
Contributor
Try it underwater and let me know. My guess is that it will absolutely prevent blue channel blowout, and give you all the room you need in post to do what you want. The color is there, it's just hinted at instead of blowing out.
And yea, the detail is there too. I've made one other change on the scenefile since I shot that. Basically, put the lenscap on as a final check. Put the zebra into spot meter mode. Check the reading. Raise or lower the MasterPed until the reading goes positive. This will ENSURE that you get no crushed blacks (you'll never shoot in darker conditions than having the lens cap on) and now you can just worry about not blowing the whites. I use High gamma to keep my contrast soft, and use a -1 or -2 auto iris to keep from blowing the highlights when I am not controlling things or am not in fixed light.
I don't want sharpening done in camera, so -3 or -4 seems to give me the soft look that I want. I too am generally a 24p guy but I was scene testing in 30p, 30i, and 24pA, and I just happened to put the 30p file on Vimeo.
I should split scene the "as shot" and what I did in post to raise color and contrast. The in-camera stuff is sooo soft and pastel. Looks really clean. You can move it anywhere in post.
People say they want "film-like". I ask what that means. Film shot on 5218, or Eterna? Film from out of camera or after grading. Film that is processed normally, or pushed or pulled. I'm a Reala look kinda guy. I LOVED it when I shot it 35mm. Lush greens, soft pallette. Some people like the punch of the Kodak. Just depends on where you want to go. What I DO know, is that you come out of camera with the final look, and then you have to start matching shots, you're going to have your work cut out unless you have a sky high budget.
And yea, the detail is there too. I've made one other change on the scenefile since I shot that. Basically, put the lenscap on as a final check. Put the zebra into spot meter mode. Check the reading. Raise or lower the MasterPed until the reading goes positive. This will ENSURE that you get no crushed blacks (you'll never shoot in darker conditions than having the lens cap on) and now you can just worry about not blowing the whites. I use High gamma to keep my contrast soft, and use a -1 or -2 auto iris to keep from blowing the highlights when I am not controlling things or am not in fixed light.
I don't want sharpening done in camera, so -3 or -4 seems to give me the soft look that I want. I too am generally a 24p guy but I was scene testing in 30p, 30i, and 24pA, and I just happened to put the 30p file on Vimeo.
I should split scene the "as shot" and what I did in post to raise color and contrast. The in-camera stuff is sooo soft and pastel. Looks really clean. You can move it anywhere in post.
People say they want "film-like". I ask what that means. Film shot on 5218, or Eterna? Film from out of camera or after grading. Film that is processed normally, or pushed or pulled. I'm a Reala look kinda guy. I LOVED it when I shot it 35mm. Lush greens, soft pallette. Some people like the punch of the Kodak. Just depends on where you want to go. What I DO know, is that you come out of camera with the final look, and then you have to start matching shots, you're going to have your work cut out unless you have a sky high budget.
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