My next dive is from my yak!

[AfterDark]

My latest entry in my diving log:

8-20-16 No diving: spent 4 hours today at Beach Pond, a nearby pond learning how to use a FutureBeach Angler160 a 13’ 4" sit-on-top kayak as a diving platform. It was a very rewarding, successful but exhausting afternoon. First I tipped over the yak in shallow water with only a paddle without any gear. I got it righted easily but didn’t make it back in until the 2nd attempt. I did that a few more times until I got it down where I could do it almost without effort. The more flat in the water I got before starting to push down on the gunwale the easier it got. Having that skill learned, I spend about an hour in the 90+F heat with 80+% humidity to get my gear loaded and secured (?) on the yak. I took it in shallow water tipped it over and found my kit floating on its tether, it had not been as secured as I would have liked. After getting it re-configured with line instead of the yak bungees it was off to deeper water (10FFW) to overturn, righted and re-enter with my FarmerJohn bottoms on no fins. No problem did it 2x’s. I purposely flooded the forward compartment almost sunk it with all my gear on board but was able to keep it high enough in the water to pump it out enough to swim it back to shore after donning my mask, snorkel and fins.

Then after a short break I went back out anchored, deployed the dive flag, donned my top and hood as well as my fins and mask/snorkel. Then got the kit deployed and slid into the water. I was able to don my BP/W harness even though I had my HP hose and console between my back and BP. The 2nd try was the gold and I was ready to dive. That however was not the plan. After removing my kit I re-entered and with a lot of trouble got my kit back in the well falling off the yak in the process but the kit was in the well! This worked out because rigging it was easier in the water with fins on. Re-entered, retrieved the flag and anchor and paddled back.

I'm working on a way to get the kit back into the well while still in the water. Thinking of using my paddle and rope to make a sling I can use to step up with the kit and dump it into the well. Maybe this Tuesday I'll try something too tired this weekend!

 

[northernone]

Enjoying the update! Sounds like fulfilling testing. Keep us posted!
-Cameron

 

[Nemrod]

Do not use bungee or "rope" or "line" to secure your rigged SCUBA into the kayak. Instead use two inch webbing such as used in a harness and nylon buckles, either a SCUBA harness buckle or a nylon snap type. Fold the ends of the webbing over to make a point and then melt a hole through (with a solder iron) and then secure to your kayak with a rivet or a bolts (if you have interior access) and a large area washer. Not sure of where you will be kayak diving but a roll in the surf can be violent and the rig must be very well secured. I would make up two of these webbing straps to secure the SCUBA in the tank well. Run at least one of them, if not both, through the SCUBA harness.

Wow a 16 footer, what is it?

For dive flags I use Scotty mounts of various types and their oar lock adapter. Then I epoxy a fiber glass (snow pole) rod into the oar adapter. This way I can have a bright pennant for underway and then switch to a dive flag once I reach the dive site.

When you are hauling your SCUBA back aboard you can sit, still with fins on, facing rearward and your legs hanging off each side for stability. Then drag it over the gunwale and secure it, spin around on your rear and then remove fins and secure the remainder of your gear.

N

 

[cmburch]

If you can post some Pics it would be helpful. I used to Sit-on-Top Kayak with SCUBA and my dog on the Monterey Bay. I have a front and rear hatch. Most my gear would be in front hatch which was left open, my dog on my lap. I will see if I can find some pictures, but they are on film. I currently kayak freediving for fish and abalone.

My BC/tank in front hatch was inflated and clipped to something on my Kayak, my dog had a neoprene chest protector with side flotation. If rough water could fill due to the open hatch, but only went out in small swells with my dog.

I doffed and donned in the water. I do not like paddling with a weight belt so even put that on in the water after lifting it out the open hatch.

Freediving now, I keep most of my gear in front closed hatch. Safety gear and food in back hatch. Camera and water in front of me. Wear mask and snorkel on neck. Cheap sunglasses and hat with hood pulled down. I may wear fins while paddling.

My SitonTop is only 13feet but wide so slow and stable. I have plastic 16ft with rudder it is faster but heavier not as stable, not as wide, and I do not like pumping it out. If I was doing longer distance or camping, or racing I would use it though.

 

[AfterDark]

Thanks for the tips and encouragement everyone. Man am I hurting today! That was a big day for a 62 year old geezer!
If we have surf then the diving isn't worth the effort. I had that yak upside and flooded without loosing any gear. I'm not crazy about straps with buckles that cam/lock. I like line/rope, make a loop feed the end thru pull tight and secure with a half hitch leaving a small loop secured by putting the bitter end thru. I don't ever expect to be in a situation that I need to self rescue as I'll be only diving in optimal conditions. However one can never count on the weather and the ocean cooperating so I prepare for the worst.

I told my wife we should have brought the camera to record the effort, sorry no pictures. I'll have some after my 1st real dive.

 

[cmburch]

Shore diving Big Sur. Get in the water gentle morning swells. Surface after the dive can not see the shore when in the trough of the swells that picked up while we we diving. Every perhaps 6th swell a monster 8-10 footer which makes it dangerous if getting out and smashed on rocks or cliff.

Diving calm water Hermosa Beach. Surface, Can not see the inflatable. Wind blew it over a mile away. Buddy had tied it to some kelp.

 

[AfterDark]

So I've been doing some thinking about getting the kit back into the well; came up with:
1. turn yak over (while still anchored)
2. tether BC to yak and remove
3.turn tank up and horizontal under the well, inflate the BC until the tank is in the well pushing up on the bottom of the well.
4. secure the kit and turn yak upright.

I can use the air left in the tank if needed to accomplish this. It will take almost no effort as I'm using the forces of nature to do the work for me. If I wasn't so darn tried and sore I'd try it today. I'm off Tuesday maybe then.

 

[Rich Keller]

Try using a paddle float when re-entering your kayak. This will turn your paddle into an outrigger making it much more stable. I would secure the paddle to the kayak better then what you will see in the video but both ways will help. http://www.neckykayaks.com/tips_techniques/safety_rescue/paddle_float_rescue/ I would stick with using line rather then the webbing, it is simpler and more versatile then the fixed webbing. Your idea for attaching your tank to the kayak while it is upside down will probably work but you will find it to be more work then is needed to get the job done. With a little practice you can easily get the tank back in the boat with or without a paddle float.

 

[AfterDark]

Try using a paddle float when re-entering your kayak. This will turn your paddle into an outrigger making it much more stable. I would secure the paddle to the kayak better then what you will see in the video but both ways will help. http://www.neckykayaks.com/tips_techniques/safety_rescue/paddle_float_rescue/ I would stick with using line rather then the webbing, it is simpler and more versatile then the fixed webbing. Your idea for attaching your tank to the kayak while it is upside down will probably work but you will find it to be more work then is needed to get the job done. With a little practice you can easily get the tank back in the boat with or without a paddle float.

Thanks Rich, getting myself into the yak is really not a problem. Getting the kit back in at least with the LP 94 I used was a BEAR. I was beat from 3.5 hours of drills, loading, unloading, so it probably seemed harder then it really is. However turning that yak over either way takes little effort on my part and was a whole lot easier than lugging that kit back in. That tank is negative even when empty, add the SS B/P, quite the load. I agree on the line / rope, never cared for bungees, straps with cams and buckles and such. A loop with the bitter end thru and a good pull followed by a half hitch is better than anything I've seen yet.

I was moving fwd and aft on the yak all day, sitting on the sides. I fell off once; getting the kit back in! It's seems to be a very stable yak. I've got a paddle leash I use with my other yak my paddle is very well secured. I've got 20 years of camping, fishing and touring with a 138 Loon sit inside yak fresh and salt water so I've got most of this nailed down, which was why I had the confidence to go and learn on my own rather than take classes.

Next stop Prices Neck looking for artifacts from the gun emplacements that were there in the 40's! Then off to Gooseberry Island! Here's a link to the my yak, Angler 160 Kayak by Future Beach - Kayak Reviews it's a 13' 4" not 16'. I assumed the 160 meant 16' like 138 means 13' 8" on my Old Town Loon.

 

[Bob DBF]

Getting the kit back in at least with the LP 94 I used was a BEAR. I was beat from 3.5 hours of drills, loading, unloading, so it probably seemed harder then it really is.

I used an old steel 72 when I started rigging a kayak. Putting it on and off several times is a lot harder than one paddle out and do one dive and return. Then, when I switched to an LP 95 it was not so bad (less repetition to figure it out). No telling the horror if I tried the Faber MP 120, perhaps if I used it as a temporary boat anchor and swam down to put it on...

Anyway it could be worse, we could be old and not diving.


Bob