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My Rix SA-6 Diesel

Discussion in 'Compressors, Boosters & Blending Systems' started by rob.mwpropane, Nov 11, 2020.

  1. rob.mwpropane

    rob.mwpropane Contributor

    Ok. Replumbed a lot of things. @rjack321 was right. The fitting on the compressor was a PMV. I moved the OPV before the PMV for safety. I didn't get any pictures of the compressor side, but here's one of the tower. The 2 caps are just where the whips will go. T was also removed from the PMV and a 90 is there for the gauge, that's it.

    couv likes this.
  2. RayfromTX

    RayfromTX Student Of Gas Mixology Staff Member ScubaBoard Sponsor

    # of Dives: 200 - 499
    Location: Cozumel while the cruise ships are gone
    That looks an awful lot like a bullet extractor in the background.
    rob.mwpropane likes this.
  3. rhwestfall

    rhwestfall Woof! ScubaBoard Sponsor

    # of Dives: 200 - 499
    Location: "La Grande Ile"
    I'd still want the moisture detector after the oil/water separator and before the filter.

    I also assume you will be running a check valve upstream of the filter to allow you to drain the separator without back-blowing the filter..
    rob.mwpropane likes this.
  4. grf88

    grf88 ScubaBoard Supporter ScubaBoard Supporter

    # of Dives: 1,000 - 2,499
    Location: Markham, Ontario
    I agree with the check valve before the filter but don't understand your reasoning to have the moisture indicator before the filter. I use the moisture indicator to tell me when I should be replacing the filter.
    rob.mwpropane likes this.
  5. rob.mwpropane

    rob.mwpropane Contributor

    I think what you're referring is the Miniox 3000 O2 sensor fitting....clear green piece?

    There is a check valve upstream. I was under the impression the visual indicator was to tell you when your filter is spent...so should come after? With a Rix there's bound to be a little moisture that gets past the separators.
  6. -JD-

    -JD- Eclecticist ScubaBoard Supporter

    # of Dives: 50 - 99
    Location: Greater Philadelphia, PA
    I'm going to go radical and see what you all think ...

    How about installing a selectable bypass loop (tee with valve - valve - tee with valve) on the compressor output, then a bleeder, moisture monitor, PMV, and whip attachments.

    For the filter tower, (flexline - check valve - tower(s) - valve - flexline). The flexlines attached to the two valves on the tees with whatever appropriate QC fittings you are using.
    A couple clamp bands attached to the tower, backed to some quick-attach clamps for the frame corner may work for operation.

    Compressor is fully usable without the filtration if desired and all of the major plumbing can be securely tied and protected in the compressor frame. When the filtration is removed the check valve and output side valve maintain pressure. With some 90s on the tower the spread can be minimized for optimal storage. [Can the tower be safely stored on its side? It looks like it could be safely nestled inside the frame in the box. For storage clamp it to the top-bar of the frame, inside if it fits]

    Startup with tee valves shut, let compressor come up to PMV pressure, open first tee valve to pressurize filters, open filter output valve and second compressor tee valve, shut off the through valve to force airflow through the filter.
  7. iain/hsm

    iain/hsm Contributor

    I agree but am a tad confused with this thread the way its going. Its very far away for a optimal Rix SA-6 build

    The reason for having two visual indicators on a SA-6 is
    A. When two filter towers are used or
    B. When a diesel or petrol engine drive is used.

    The first visual indicator is fitted with a 20/40/60% indicator card and is fitted after the first molecular sieve tower in between filters 1 and filters 2. The second visual indicator is fitted with a 10/20/30% relative humidity card fitted downstream (after) the second filter tower. A non return valve can also also be fitted between the two filters in addition to the one fitted at the inlet side of filter 1. In addition a 2Mu in line particulate filter is also fitted after the second tower

    Filter 1. Contains Activated Alumina as the first contact chemical from the separators at 20% by volume the balance being 13X molecular sieve.

    Filter 2. Contains first 13x again 20% by volume as the first contact chemical, then Hopkalite for CO removal, then a balance "plug" of 13x again 20% by volume the balance filter being Molecular Sieve 13x

    Two (2) 7Mu x 6mm thick minimum polyester filter pads are used to separate the chemicals in both towers.

    The chemical in filter one is changed when the 20/40/60 reaches the 20 to 40 mark for ease of use.
    Alternativly using a 10/20/30 in the first tower is OK but its very hard to see the 10 to 20 change due to the sensitivity of the indicator card

    For an electric drive a single tower would be used with 13X only if using retail throw away cartridges
    or a mix of 20% Activated Alumia and 13x if using a self fill re pack cartridge.

    The height of the tower would be dependant on the required filter chemical life expectancy.
    This would also depend on the indended operational cycles of the compressor and use it would also be calculated at requiring around 3 to 4 filter changes a year to ensure attention to purity and avoid long lags between use.

    Adsorbsion is a complex subject with breathing gases, one reason why I'm so interested why many of the oil lubricated air compressor experts on the forum seem to make it such a simple undertaking.
    couv and rob.mwpropane like this.
  8. iain/hsm

    iain/hsm Contributor

    Re that last photo

    That looks awful.

    There fixed that for you as well LOL
  9. rob.mwpropane

    rob.mwpropane Contributor

    LOL...What?!? I can't imagine what I need to change this time?

    Filter > gauge > indicator > PMV > fill whips.... what more could possibly be done?
  10. iain/hsm

    iain/hsm Contributor

    ROFL If it wasnt for the fact your using an SA-6 I would have happily left you with that filter plumbing so long its poking out into the next state.

    Heck Rob I can see I will have to use some workshop time for this and play about with parts.
    We cant have you building this onto an SA-6 lol
    Someone might think thats how it was made at the factory.

    But I'm looking on the bright side if you put any more fittings on that thing it it will be so long you can fill my tanks in England.

    Look up my friend, look up and use that male elbow in second place off the tower. Just make sure you have enough ceiling height in the building or you may need a red light on it as an aircraft hazzard warning. Just sayin.
    Jack Hammer, couv and rob.mwpropane like this.

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