New Genesis 2.0

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The waiting is over! Finally I got my new Genesis!!! And THANKS Jon Nelly for always answering all my questions, the great service and for creating this beautiful piece of engineering!
Here is a link for a video of the unboxing:
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Hi diver4life#1,

Congrats on your new purchase! Its a great dpv. I see that you have mounted a compass on your dpv, i am trying to mount one on it as well but have experienced magnetic interference due to the close vicinity of the magnetic motor, did you get it to work, and if so, how did you do it?
 
Just got the dpv yesterday but I already have the mumetal that is recommended by Jon to install it on the warp core to minimize the magnetic interference. I don't think is the motor but the warp core. Will work on that maybe today. Thanks!
 
Just got the dpv yesterday but I already have the mumetal that is recommended by Jon to install it on the warp core to minimize the magnetic interference. I don't think is the motor but the warp core. Will work on that maybe today. Thanks!
Best of luck, if you get that to work let me know how you achieved it!
 
Best of luck, if you get that to work let me know how you achieved it!

well this is what I found out, I cant notice any deviation on the compass without the mumetal. I tried the suunto compass too and it reads the same. I tried moving them away from the dpv and nothing happens. Same readings, even with the dpv running. So I will skip the mumetal for now until I test it underwater.
 
When you test for compass deviation, you need to check with the DPV pointed a few different headings. I typically check every 90 degrees. If you only check one heading and the magnetic field direction of the cells just happens to be close the earth's magnetic field direction, you will not see any deviation. Turn it 90 or 120 degrees and you probably will.

The cells are the primary cause of deviation on the 2.1 and since there are no wires on that side of the 2.1 Warp Core, a flat sheet works nicely there. The 2.2 has more cells and has additional variable deviation from the power flowing through the jumper wires, just underneath where the compass would sit. For the 2.2, it's easiest to stick the MU metal on the inside wall of the tube.

Happy Holidays,
Jon
 
When you test for compass deviation, you need to check with the DPV pointed a few different headings. I typically check every 90 degrees. If you only check one heading and the magnetic field direction of the cells just happens to be close the earth's magnetic field direction, you will not see any deviation. Turn it 90 or 120 degrees and you probably will.

The cells are the primary cause of deviation on the 2.1 and since there are no wires on that side of the 2.1 Warp Core, a flat sheet works nicely there. The 2.2 has more cells and has additional variable deviation from the power flowing through the jumper wires, just underneath where the compass would sit. For the 2.2, it's easiest to stick the MU metal on the inside wall of the tube.

Happy Holidays,
Jon

Hi Jon,
Yep you are 100% right. I failed on rotating the dpv. After I started rotating it I saw about 8 degrees of deviation. Will work on that tomorrow and update on the results.
Thanks again for the good advices!
 
Mumetal installed. I glued 2 sheets together and then glued them to a piece of a thin plastic cutting mat. Attached it to the warp core with tie wraps, plastic facing the batteries. It appears to work just fine. Im not getting the compass deviation like before, just a bit of movement. Will test in water soon.
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This is how my Genesis sit in the water after all the tweaking, it took 402g on the tail and an 66g bolt snap to make it neutral with Sentry and compass. Also the handle is facing up. The Camera rig is completely neutral by itself so it doesnt change the trim/buoyancy of the scoot.
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This is where I placed the weight pouch to achieve the handle position. Actually is a little more to the inside away from the border.
Heres a link of a short video of the scoot behavior.
Elliot Soto
 

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Mumetal installed. I glued 2 sheets together and then glued them to a piece of a thin plastic cutting mat. Attached it to the warp core with tie wraps, plastic facing the batteries. It appears to work just fine. I'm not getting the compass deviation like before, just a bit of movement. Will test in water soon.

Don't need to glue 2 sheets together. Mu-metal has a pull off film with a sticky side underneath. Stick one sheet to the other, then use the other sticky side to the plastic. At first I wondered how you got your tie-wraps back around. Then figured out: drill holes, use 8" tie-wraps first thru mu-metal assy and around studs and back through mu-metal. Do all six before tightening the tie-wraps a bit at the time until seated. I cut my plastic 1/8" longer than the mu-metal just in case it slide down to the exposed circuit board. Only the plastic could touch. Probably didn't need to since the assembly is pretty secure.
 
Mumetal installed. I glued 2 sheets together and then glued them to a piece of a thin plastic cutting mat. Attached it to the warp core with tie wraps, plastic facing the batteries. It appears to work just fine. I'm not getting the compass deviation like before, just a bit of movement. Will test in water soon.

Don't need to glue 2 sheets together. Mu-metal has a pull off film with a sticky side underneath. Stick one sheet to the other, then use the other sticky side to the plastic. At first I wondered how you got your tie-wraps back around. Then figured out: drill holes, use 8" tie-wraps first thru mu-metal assy and around studs and back through mu-metal. Do all six before tightening the tie-wraps a bit at the time until seated. I cut my plastic 1/8" longer than the mu-metal just in case it slide down to the exposed circuit board. Only the plastic could touch. Probably didn't need to since the assembly is pretty secure.

My bad When I said glued, Exactly what I did with the sticky sides. Good job! It works really good.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/teric/

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