New tanks to purchase

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You are forgetting one critical thing here, we dive with full tanks, not empty tanks. I never come home with an empty tank as I always have gas to spare.

Seajay's not forgetting anything.

Do your bouyancy calculations on an empty tank. Otherwise, you're going to find yourself too light at the end of a dive when you're trying to hold a safety stop.

Basic OW class should have covered this. To PLAN on coming back with gas in your tanks is a good way to win yourself a Darwin award, buddy. Always plan for the worst. Otherwise, why bother getting your tanks filled all the way, right?

:censor: by NetDoc... quotes should be from this thread.

Hmmmmmmm..........
 
Hallmac,

What info do you need that i've not already posted?

Ed
 
blacknet once bubbled...
Hello,

I'm going to be buying 2 new tanks shortly and have several to choose from on the list.

Faber LP 95's
PST E80's
PST E100's
luxfer al80's

I'm all about small size and lightweight.
Ed

If small and lightweight are what you are looking for, then high pressure steel made by PST should work for you. They range in size from 65' up to 100's.

They are smaller and lighter in weight to comparable aluminum and have better bouyancy characteristics so you can use less weight.

We use PST high pressure 65's and 80's
 
Thanks for the compliments on the site.

According to the statistics I have, Faber steel 95's are -1.2 pounds negative in salt water, completely empty. They'd be heavier in fresh water and even heavier with air in them.

According to the same statistics, your Luxfer AL80's (the most common ones) are +4 pounds positive empty in salt water.

Thus, I see a total difference in weight between the two tanks of 5.2 pounds empty. Since air weighs basically .077 pounds per cubic foot, the difference would be even bigger when full... 6.6 pounds of difference, to be exact.

...Which is why it sounds like you're 5 pounds overweighted with the Faber 95 if you can still dive an AL80 with no additional weight.

I'm not sure where you got your numbers from, but they appear faulty anyway... A full to empty AL80 basically spans 6 pounds, no matter whether the tank is heavy or light... Because 80 cuft of air basically weighs 6 pounds.

...And I don't see 6 pounds of spread there.
 
Hello,

OK I stand corrected, I pasted the 1/2 full/empty for the al80 instead of the empty weight.

Al80 -1.4/4.4

Overall i'm more inclined towards the PST E80.

Ed
 
The PST tanks are quite popular for that reason (although new).

The bottom line is that PST tanks - or any steel tank - is negative throughout the dive. While this sounds great, AL80's are a better choice for some because of the fact that they pass through neutral as they empty... In other words, they're never too light and never too heavy. For much of the dive, in fact, they're nearly neutral. Steels are always negative.

...Which is good if that's what you need. However, many find that having "all that weight" that far away from their body does bad things for their trim. I've found that when diving wet, they will "turtle" me, or make me prone to flipping over on my back. This is because they make my center of gravity further back than my center of buoyancy.

I'm afraid I don't remember whether or not I posted this link already, but if I didn't... Here it is: http://www.bftwave.net/lcscuba/homebc.html . There, I touch a little on the concept of proper trim and avoiding a center of gravity and a center of buoyancy that's too far apart, creating an "opinionated" BC.

The key is to find out not only how much weight you need, but also where, exactly, you want it on your body. Done properly, this can be achieved using any type of BC, although with a bp/wing it seems easier due to the weight of the metal plate.

...So the bottom line is, "How much weight do you need," and, "Where does it have to be on your body to achieve proper trim?" Additionally, there are two other things to consider: If you rent tanks regularly, what sort of tanks are available to you? You may want to stick to AL80's simply because they're so available... You know, so that when you travel, getting the "right" tanks is easy. Lastly... And perhaps most importantly... Is this: If you're fully weighted with a full tank (i.e. at the beginning of the dive) then can you swim your rig up in case you have a bladder failure? I mean, if you can't inflate your wing/BC at all, can you still swim the whole shebang up? If not, then you'll need to ensure that you can ditch enough weight to be able to do so... Which is something that you can't do if the weight is all in your tank.

...And it's because of all of these variables that we haven't been able to answer your questions directly... Like, "Which tank should I get?" It completely depends on the situation. If the tank you select meets all of the above criteria, then I'd say it's a good purchase. :)
 
I did.

Much smaller and lighter than the AL80s. The Faber95s are huge in comparison.

I have 4 HP80s. The only problem is fighting off people who want them.

:)

The bouyancy issue seems to be overrated. With an HP80. ABS BP, and a 3/2 I can compensate for the weight with lung volume.

If I take along my cave light, I have to kick just a little to get up from depth, but the neoprene expands at the surface and holding the SS is not a problem.

Peter
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/teric/

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