O2 cleaning?

[runsongas]

View attachment 471122
You don't need to clean the 40 unless you put more than 23.5% O2 in it. That's a snarky way of saying yes, you need to O2 clean the 40. You also need to clean the Mk25. If I'm rebuilding a regulator that I know is for air, I may use silicon on the orings instead of christolube, as a christolube service is $10 more than an air service, and the vast majority of divers don't need or want the extra expense.

The Mk25 O2 ready version is called a Mk25EVO, and contains different repair parts.

dive shops should just o2 clean rebuild everything instead of nickel and diming their customers. cost difference is miniscule if it isn't an atomic where you have to pack the piston.

 

[Superlyte27]

dive shops should just o2 clean rebuild everything instead of nickel and diming their customers. cost difference is miniscule if it isn't an atomic where you have to pack the piston.

Most dive shops do. I don’t know any shops who have silicone for one rebuild and cristolube for another build. No way we want the liability of accidentally using the wrong lube. There’s no silicone in our entire store.

The rebuild procedure and parts are exactly the same for the 7 product lines I rebuild for, regardless of whether it’s oxygen use or air use.

 

[Wookie]

Most dive shops do. I don’t know any shops who have silicone for one rebuild and cristolube for another build. No way we want the liability of accidentally using the wrong lube. There’s no silicone in our entire store.

The rebuild procedure and parts are exactly the same for the 7 product lines I rebuild for, regardless of whether it’s oxygen use or air use.

And we use christolube in everything too, but not necessarily the O2 (nitrox) kit. Not unless its specified.

 

[eelnoraa]

AL40 is most likely to be used for some kind of deco gas with high percentage of O2, I would definitely have the AL40 and valve cleaned. If you Mk25 is used for deco, also have it cleaned for sure. Back gas reg is arguable necessary, but I would have them cleaned as well. The O2 clean cost should be very minimal compare to your AN/DP class and future tech diving cost.

 

[Superlyte27]

When is your stuff do for an annual service? Ask them if their annual service is in accordance with oxygen clean standards (as it should be). Kill two birds with one stone, and then don’t use crappy gas suppliers.

All of my 17 regs work perfectly fine with pure oxygen. From my cheapest oceanic, to my most expensive Apeks

 

[uncfnp]

Most dive shops do. I don’t know any shops who have silicone for one rebuild and cristolube for another build. No way we want the liability of accidentally using the wrong lube. There’s no silicone in our entire store.

The rebuild procedure and parts are exactly the same for the 7 product lines I rebuild for, regardless of whether it’s oxygen use or air use.

For those 7 product lines all the kits are labeled for oxygen use? Do you tell your customers they are O2 clean when they pick up their regs?

 

[Superlyte27]

For those 7 product lines all the kits are labeled for oxygen use? Do you tell your customers they are O2 clean when they pick up their regs?

Only if they ask.
Let me see if I can find the Oceanic regulator that was “Oxygen Ready”. I’m not sure I can from this laptop. But, the ONLY difference in the Oxygen Ready and the standard reg (exact same reg) was the green band on the first stage. The o rings and protocols are the same for both. If you order a parts kit for dive rite or hog or oceanic, or apeks, or atomic or geese, so many, there isn’t a kit with o2 seats and orings and a kit for air seats and orings. They’re all the same. The only difference would be if you were silly enough to use silicone on one and cristolube on another.


-EDIT-
Bah. I can’t find that Oceanic reg. But some of you might remember it from 15’ish years ago. It had a green band on the first stage and a green faceplate on the second stage. THE ONLY DIFFERENCE between the nitrox reg and the standard reg was the green and $100

 

[Wookie]

Only if they ask.
Let me see if I can find the Oceanic regulator that was “Oxygen Ready”. I’m not sure I can from this laptop. But, the ONLY difference in the Oxygen Ready and the standard reg (exact same reg) was the green band on the first stage. The o rings and protocols are the same for both. If you order a parts kit for dive rite or hog or oceanic, or apeks, or atomic or geese, so many, there isn’t a kit with o2 seats and orings and a kit for air seats and orings. They’re all the same. The only difference would be if you were silly enough to use silicone on one and cristolube on another.

Hmmm. The MK25 kit comes with Buna o-rings unless you buy the specific nitrox kit. Retail on the buna kit is 37, retail on the nitrox kit is 65.

All of the Huish brands, including Atomic, and Aqualung, they are all not O2 rebuild kits, unless you specify them.

Mel's dive shop only provides the regular kits, although they will get you a nitrox kit in a day or two. They don't support tech diving, though. Lower keys diving is a different kind of place.

 

[uncfnp]

I understand that Apeks does promote all ther regs/kits as 100% oxygen compatible but not so Scubapro. Whether its real or hype they do sell a special kit, as linked by Wookie, for the MK25. Even the HP seat is green.

No idea about the other manufactures.

 

[seeker242]

Thanks all. I'm sure it will be more than 40%. I suspect 50% or maybe 80%. I would feel more comfortable just getting everything cleaned. It would suck if that means having to do another annual service on the reg that I just had serviced, but oh well!