Old Bauer and Mako questions

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You should be putting a good diesther synthetic oil in both of them, and depending on ambient temperature, changing every 50-200 hours. Good choices include products from Ultrachem, either 751 or 800, or from Anderol either 505 or 555. Brand names include Mako Blue and Bauer Something or another. Or, for far less money get on amazon and buy Miles Ep Breatech D ISO 100 Diester Based Synthetic Breathing Air Compressor Fluid 5 Gallon Pail: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific since you're not using them for breathing air.

Don't worry about the glycerine in the gauges. it isn't important as long as the gauge works. If the gauges are toast, and you are handy enough to make a new panel, make a new panel and use cheap gauges from Ashcroft. If you aren't handy, get Class One gauges from a fire supply store. Once you see the price of the Class One's, you'll get handy. The Ashcroft's don't fit the gauge holes you currently have, so you need to make the holes smaller.

The Mako should have a plate right above the oil sightglass that says 5404 or 5405 on it somewhere. That serial number is the Reavell block serial number, and I don't know if Reavell is still in business. Mako is owned by Gardner Denver now.
 
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Here's some more photos. Theres no sight glass though, only a drain and dipstick tube both if which are hardpiped.

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I began disassembling the bauer and low and behold someone already did the hard work for me! It's already converted to single phase :) now time to start buying parts and see how deep my pockets are going to have to get.
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Sent a note to my dealer. He should be able to give me the history....

Where your serial number tag is, is usually a model, serial, and pressure. That's an old machine. If it doesn't run right, it's probably quite valuable as parts.
 
Take some time and really carefully inspect the purification chamber and the final separator chamber. It's hard to read the tags, but those look like the 5000PSI version which had pitting problems. Those chambers are only good for 10 years, or 30,000 cycles (8000 operating hours or so), but they got terrible pitting in the threads and the bottom of the chamber. I had one explode on my boat and trust me, you don't want that.
 
they are the 5000psi version :(
Doesn't mean they are bad, just means you have to inspect them.
 
assuming the threads are good, but also assuming they are older than 10 years whats the consensus on putting them to use?
kinda like using an out of date hyrdo tank, no bueno?
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/peregrine/

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