Oly C-5050 manual focus

[DoubleDip]

Hi, off the top of your collective heads how do I set the focal lenght in manual focus mode to say, infinity or 3 feet or 10 feet ect. I have pressed every buttom and twisted every knob to no avail. I am now wondering if the camera auto configures this setting?

 

[justleesa]

On top of the camera, in the left upper corner there is a button marked AF/flower symbol/MF, push that button, hold it down and turn the jog dial until the MF appears. Then with the up and down arrows you can change your focus range.

Hope this helps!

Aloha,
Lisa

 

[DoubleDip]

Thanks, the next time I try to shoot something small like a tube worm or such I will give it a try. I wasnt holding the arrow down allowing the bar to scroll.

I did have another question with something else that has been giving me difficulty, I have a c-5050 oly, pt-015 housing and for the short term I am using my old entry level base/ arm and strobe, a aquashot sub strobe. It throws out enough light, I just cant seem to find the right combination, whenever I use manual mode say a Anemone with day light conditions 35' or so 1/250 and F 1.8 I will get three different results, overexposed" blury white" to underexposed " dark "I also have mixed results with the P mode auto focus. I was thinking there should be a setting I guess matching the little auto35 camera so I can get adequate results or am I just "all wet" wasting my time with this set-up.I am going to get a Inon strobe in the near future.

 

[ReyeR]

a aquashot sub strobe. It throws out enough light, I just cant seem to find the right combination, whenever I use manual mode say a Anemone with day light conditions 35' or so 1/250 and F 1.8 I will get three different results, overexposed" blury white" to underexposed " dark "

I don't know much about your strobe but I presume you are using it as a slave strobe and triggering it with the C5050's built-in flash. Here are a few questions/suggestions:
1. Is it 'pre-flash aware' (I suspect not)? If not then you should set the C5050's flash menu to 'Slave' (OK >> Mode Menu >> Camera >> Flash). This can only be done in 'A' or 'M' shooting mode. This will turn the pre-flash off on the camera which will prevent the slave strobe from trying to fire twice.

2. Does it have any manual settings for example full, 1/2, 1/4, etc power settings. If not then you will need to adjust the Aperture of the camera and/or the strobe-to-subject distance to control the exposure. Picture too bright? Close the aperture (ie select a larger f-stop number) and/or move the strobe back. Picture too dark? Open the aperture and or move the strobe forward.

Maybe you can post some more info about the substrobe, or even photos of the controls on the strobe will help.

 

[DoubleDip]

I think you nailed it, the problem with the pre-flash that is. Ive never seen it but it makes sense. On the Ikelight strobe there are no adjustments.The strobe is for the Aquashot 3 camera system, Piont and shoot 35mm film. Ikelight said there new strobe [Aquashot auto35] is one F-stop faster than the one I have but they dont tell what it is. So in review to eliminate the pre-flash I click ok, camera, scroll to flash,click slave if I click slave flash I scroll through some numbers 1-10, what is the explaination for the numbers? Below the flash there is a slow tab, would this for my purposes be set at slow1, slow2 or the red eye slow flash? Also in manual mode ill simply ignore the red lettering to the left showing underexposure because in raw mode I can correct it and save the photo as long as its in focus?

 

[ReyeR]

So in review to eliminate the pre-flash I click ok, camera, scroll to flash,click slave if I click slave flash I scroll through some numbers 1-10, what is the explaination for the numbers?

The numbers control how bright the camera's flash should be, where 10 is the brightest. Start with 1 and see if it is bright enough to trigger the slave sub-strobe. Work your way up if it isn't.

Below the flash there is a slow tab, would this for my purposes be set at slow1, slow2 or the red eye slow flash?

Leave it on Slow1. That just dictates when the flash fires: Slow1 = as soon as the shutter opens, Slow2 = just before the shutter closes. At high shutterspeeds the effect is un-noticeable.

Also in manual mode ill simply ignore the red lettering to the left showing underexposure because in raw mode I can correct it and save the photo as long as its in focus?

No, this isn't related to RAW mode. Regardless of the file format, for non-flash photography ignoring the red EV indication will give you severely under exposed pictures. When you're using a flash to fill-in or light the foreground then you can ignore the red numbers as the camera is only metering the current ambient light level and the flash will provide the rest when it fires. It's true that shooting in RAW will give you some latitude (about 2 stops) but you should (ideally) only use it to fine tune your exposure (flash or non-flash).