Painting an Auminum tank

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PRL:
A good tank inspector should be looking at tell-tale signs of re-painting, and should not pass a re-painted tank unless he knows how and why it was re-painted. Many times Auto shops etc will bake the paint on, and thats a big no-no for aluminum tanks.
IMO unless you want to put up with good, nosy inspectors every year than don't re-paint your tanks.
If you must re-paint than use aircraft stripper and than aircraft paint. They are specially designed for aluminum in rough weather. And the aircraft paint is not baked on, also will last longer than auto paint. But do keep a record of when, how, and with what the tank was re-painted to make the yearly inspections less painfull.
BTW after re-painting, the tank should be again cleaned for nitrox

I have repainted my tanks a number of times here in Fl and UK and never had a problem with hydro. If tanks have a baked on paint job it is so obvious a blind man could see it.
 
The original paint is baked on by the manufacturer, so I failed to see how a carefull paint baking process can be spoted by a blind man. The point is that you shouldn't do it.
If you have no pain than good for you. But a good inspector should have a few questions
in mind when he sees a re-painted tank.
How was the tank painted, and what are you trying to cover up by re-painting. You would be surprised what people are trying to cover up. Anything from a small gouge with bondo to a hole drilled by an inspector with a screw.
If you look at a generic inspection form from PSI there is a question if the tank was re-painted. And if there are any signs of fire damage. If the inspector is not satisfied with the answers than he should not pass a tank. (not my words but taken from PSI)
Kind of makes you wonder sometimes if you are getting your moneys worth with the VIP's.
In any case this is getting off subject. According to PSI if you want to re-paint your tank than they suggest to use aircraft paint.

Scotty have you concidered using a fine mash on the tank reather than re-painting?
It will be a little more maintenance but a pink tank with a blue or black mash might look wicked sharp.
 
PRL:
The original paint is baked on by the manufacturer, so I failed to see how a carefull paint baking process can be spoted by a blind man. The point is that you shouldn't do it.
If you have no pain than good for you. But a good inspector should have a few questions
in mind when he sees a re-painted tank.
How was the tank painted, and what are you trying to cover up by re-painting. You would be surprised what people are trying to cover up. Anything from a small gouge with bondo to a hole drilled by an inspector with a screw.
If you look at a generic inspection form from PSI there is a question if the tank was re-painted. And if there are any signs of fire damage. If the inspector is not satisfied with the answers than he should not pass a tank. (not my words but taken from PSI)
Kind of makes you wonder sometimes if you are getting your moneys worth with the VIP's.
In any case this is getting off subject. According to PSI if you want to re-paint your tank than they suggest to use aircraft paint.

Scotty have you concidered using a fine mash on the tank reather than re-painting?
It will be a little more maintenance but a pink tank with a blue or black mash might look wicked sharp.

I think we are talking at cross purposes on this, I agree a bake on paint job should never be done and yes if a tank came to me that was a year or older with an immaculate bake paint job I would be very suspicious. What I was saying is if a tank comes in with a obvious air spray it should not raise any eyebrows nothing wrong with that, Al aircraft paint or not.
You will also find people on the board for & against mesh on tanks. Some say a paint job and mesh hold water on the tank therefore speeding up the deterioration of the tank, its up to the individual.
IMHO if the tank cost a $100 and lasts eight years that works out at $0.0342465 per day sounds like a deal to me.

PS I was saying a blind man can spot the diffrence between a bake & spray job.
 
So I take it that you are inspecting tanks. I'm sure that you will admit that in an instance that you have any boubts about a tank you easily have the right to question the procedure further and if you dont have the information you want, you will not sign off on the inspection untill you are satisfied.
Now if a costumer comes to you with a freshly painted tank that looks to good, has the date he painted it, gives you info on the type of paint he used and says that he painted it because he hates pink. You will say fine, good enough. But the same costumer when asked says Hmmmm and Errr you will raise your flag. Its a judgment call on your part.
All Im saying is if a costumer has the info the inspector wants it makes the job easier for the inspector and the costumer, exspecialy if the inspector is inexperienced but wants to do a good job.
As for the paint, I was very carefull to say that aircraft paint was suggested. (hinting that its not the only option available) Same for the mesh. I did say that it needs more maintenance.
I think that we both are on the same page and both understand each other, just that its human nature to dig to deep, and I will admit that I am guilty.
 
I don't like mesh or boots, so that's not really an option. At this point, based on all the (very appreciated) feedback from everyone, I'm most likely going to leave a bare aluminum finish. This takes care of the "pink problem" and will be less work than painting.

I'll probably also try the 3M Safety Strip recommended by HiDiver. It sounds less messy to work with in my project room as I'll be doing this in the winter. I'll post my results with a pic.
 
PRL:
So I take it that you are inspecting tanks. I'm sure that you will admit that in an instance that you have any boubts about a tank you easily have the right to question the procedure further and if you dont have the information you want, you will not sign off on the inspection untill you are satisfied.
Now if a costumer comes to you with a freshly painted tank that looks to good, has the date he painted it, gives you info on the type of paint he used and says that he painted it because he hates pink. You will say fine, good enough. But the same costumer when asked says Hmmmm and Errr you will raise your flag. Its a judgment call on your part.
All Im saying is if a costumer has the info the inspector wants it makes the job easier for the inspector and the costumer, exspecialy if the inspector is inexperienced but wants to do a good job.
As for the paint, I was very carefull to say that aircraft paint was suggested. (hinting that its not the only option available) Same for the mesh. I did say that it needs more maintenance.
I think that we both are on the same page and both understand each other, just that its human nature to dig to deep, and I will admit that I am guilty.

Without doubt the moment you walk into a store the owner has the right to say I dont want to do your tank without looking at it, as I said I would if an older tank came in that looked like it had a baked on paint job.
 
Just a ? on tank painting since you guys seem to know what the deal is... I'm getting a couple of steel 120s, and want to have them painted... I work for a guy at a body shop, and he said he'd be able to paint them for me... He mentioned a primer that bonds with the steel, basecoat, topcoat, then a thick coat of clear... Would this be acceptable?
 
I'll probably also try the 3M Safety Strip ...
Have we already confirmed positively that the stuff is aluminum friendly?

As far as steel tanks go, they'll stretch; that nice pretty paint job may not be able to handle the stretching. Usually the thinnest coat is best, as in zinc chromate followed by a coat of paint.
Rustoleum makes some "appliance" paint that is a nice high gloss, we used to use it on rockets.
As far as aircraft/vehicle paint goes, DuPont Imron is always a good choice. The stuff is expensive, so if your tanks can "happen" to be in the spray booth when a bigger job happens...
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/peregrine/

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