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Peeing in a dry suit

Discussion in 'Exposure Suits' started by Painter, May 6, 2019.

  1. rddvet

    rddvet DIR Practitioner

    # of Dives: 50 - 99
    Location: Florida
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    chlorhex is an ok disinfectant. Suitable enough if that’s your only easy to find option. One thing to not though is that using it in a balance pee valve can be problematic. Chlorhex often leaves a salt as it’s residue as it dries. Eventually that chalky material can cause the duck bill to stick. So always flush with a decent amount of water after using it.
     
  2. vioch

    vioch DIR Practitioner

    # of Dives: 500 - 999
    Location: St.Petersburg Russia, Vladimir Ioch
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    We don't use balanced p-valves - check valves bring more troubles and no benefits, especially duckbill )))
     
  3. rob.mwpropane

    rob.mwpropane ScubaBoard Supporter ScubaBoard Supporter

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    Can you expand on this? I have a balanced p valve, but not a ton of experience. I would like to know what downfalls to expect.
     
  4. vioch

    vioch DIR Practitioner

    # of Dives: 500 - 999
    Location: St.Petersburg Russia, Vladimir Ioch
    248
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    Just tried p-valves with different check valves and all of them sooner or later started to leak. And duckbill valves are the "winners" here.
    Struggled with them for about 7 years))
    After replacing several duckbill valves I ended up with duckbill valve patched and installing external check valve, then I exchanged external check valve to another type, then removed external check valve at all))
    Since then (past 8 years) I'm dry, don't stink and feel no any need in check valve at all ))

    P.S. Inspite of ordering non-balanced p-valve, got my new drysuit with LM "Tinkle" from manufacturer this year. Had to refresh my skills and patch duckbill valve again)))
     
  5. OctoHelm

    OctoHelm ScubaBoard Supporter ScubaBoard Supporter

    # of Dives: 25 - 49
    Location: San Francisco, California
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    Hello!

    Sorry to bring this back from the dead, but I have a few questions:

    I assume I do need to shave down there?
    Also, any best way to take it off?
    And I just get the tip of the cath to slide over the hose?
    Lastly, is there anything that I should know about them before I use a P-valve for the first time?

    Thank you all so much!

    Respectfully,

    OctoHelm
     
  6. lexvil

    lexvil ScubaBoard Sponsor ScubaBoard Sponsor

    # of Dives: 1,000 - 2,499
    Location: jamestown, ca.
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    Point by point

    Shaving not necessary, close trimming works fine, anything missed willgiveyou insight into waxing.

    Removal for some requires a lot of alcohol but I don’t drink so I just grab the bottom edge and roll/peel it off (you’ll build up scar tissue that will make this easier over time :wink:)

    You’ll want a quick connect so you can preinstall that end on the cath before installing it to your little friend, if you stand in public trying to attach the tip to the hose someone will call you Rudi the tucker.

    After trimming shortining the tip of the cath so that the quick connect barb is scary deep into the cath and staring your little buddy “eye to eye”, this will help keep it from kinking.

    Go forth and let it flow.
     
    rob.mwpropane and AustinV like this.
  7. Storker

    Storker ScubaBoard Supporter ScubaBoard Supporter

    # of Dives: 100 - 199
    Location: close to a Hell which occasionally freezes over
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    And me thinking the alcohol was meant for dissolving the glue, not as an anesthetic
     
  8. broncobowsher

    broncobowsher Solo Diver

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    The beard trimmer works for mowing down the forest. Stubble isn't that bad, it's the long hairs that you miss that will make you pay attention. Don't wait until the day to mow. clean it up a couple days ahead of time. Next day after you have a shower and washed all the trimmings away you can inspect and find the wild hairs you missed.

    You don't stretch the cath over the hose. It goes into a barbed fitting. The most basic is a double barb that goes into the hose and the cath. Better is a quick connect. And trim a little off the tip of the cath, minimize the chance of a kink.

    For getting it off. Everyone is a bit different but my best method is to pull laterally. It is amazing how much they will stretch. As it stretches the adheasive isn't as strong. Work it off little by little by pushing in as you stretch out and work your way around. If you practice at home, only do it once a day. Natural body oils tend to help in the release. That is if you can wait 4-6 hours after putting it on it will be better than if you take it off 15 minutes after putting it on. I typically pull it off before heading home, unless it was a really short dive or a canceled dive, then the extra hour to get home tends to help.
     
  9. rob.mwpropane

    rob.mwpropane ScubaBoard Supporter ScubaBoard Supporter

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    I really think it's one of those things you have to experience a few times (obviously after reading some) to get the hang of it. The way I put them on and take them off has slightly changed, but that comes with experience.

    I can't stress what @lexvil said about trimming the catheter down. I do the same thing, but I've never seen that mentioned on here. My barbs to the quick connect are way shorter than the outlet on the catheter, so I have to trim a good 1/2" or so. The 1st time I did it (and if I've forgotten) it tends to kink more and that's unpleasant and somewhat bad for you as you can get a uti (although I haven't had one yet).
     
    lexvil likes this.

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