Ready for my first regulator

[JayJudge]

Umm....last time I checked (and this may be different now) Dive Rite was built in FL, Promate overseas. When you open up a Promate, they vaguely resemble a Sherwood- shimms etc. Now, the second stage being generic, the covers fit, I think, but that doesn't mean too much. As for my experiences, I ended up with a set, they were awful. If they weren't freeflowing they were hard breathing, no matter what we did to them. Had another buddy that ran the same problems. BTW, I never truely used them, just in a pool, way too cappy in my opinion to use in real water.
-J

 

[SkipperJohn]

What do you guys think of metal regulators? Mares advertises that some of their metal regulators use condensation to put back moisture. I find this intriguing (I hate that dry air).

I am considering this package with the Mares Abyss 12...
Mares Sport Package Reviews and discounts, Mares

 

[Scubadad1]

Regulators are a very personal decision. One mans meat is another mans poison. I personally like Scubapro, Oceanic and Apex. At one time Mares had a problem with the HP seat but don't know if this is solved.

Best bet is to try as many as possible and go for your favourite. Environmentally sealed is worthwhile if you are going to dive in colder water. If your use is only tropical then I have a Scubapro Mk2 which my wife uses and is a great basic reg.

I have just changed from an Oceanic DX4 to a Scubapro Mk25. Very happy with both but just felt like a change and wanted a DIN reg.

I personally would avoid gimicks - the more complicated the more can go wrong - use the KISS principal if in doubt.

 

[Druid]

Diving in colder northern waters, you will want something environmentally sealed, I would recommend something in the middle price range like Sherwood SR1 or Apex XTX 200. I bought a lower end req to start and have since trades up to the Apex, as it allows for diving year round, and is adjustable

Apeks have a cunning marketing department that takes the same basic regulator, changes the badge and charges extra. I have ATX40, 50 and 200s and they are essentially the same - the service kits are identical for all of them, but the 50 and 200 have a cracking adjustment knob on the side, the 40 needs an allen key to adjust. For single cylinder use the hose routing is fine whichever one you use.

The XTX40 first stage only has one HP port which may be an issue if you have an air integrated computer and also want to use an SPG as well. If you're going to buy Apeks regs, XTX40 or 50 perform just as well as 200s, and cost *much* less.

 

[jpx8diver]

Choosing a reg is a very personal decision. Try out as many as you can before purchasing one for yourself. i have two reg setup. salt water and fresh water. My salt water reg is a mares proton and an Apeks xtx for cold water. the main difference is that the Apeks is environmentally sealed while the mares isn't. also, the Apeks is adjustable which is easier for cold water diving.

 

[Paco]

I just got another note in the header saying that I haven't posted in a while and should do so, so I'll add my choice of regulator to the mix.

I have the Aqualung Titan LX. I have it checked out every year, but it has not needed a rebuild since I bought it in 2005. I log anywhere from 50 to 100 dives a year. It has been under the ice with me and in many cold water Great Lakes and cold inland lakes dives. This regulator has not free flowed or given me any other concern. My LDS has Titans for their rental regs, so I figured it would be a good work horse.

 

[Scuba Ken]

I have apeks xtx50 and its great. I tried a 200 it felt the same, just the first stage was shaped differently, might be easier to rout doubles?

 

[sporket]

I give high props for the Zeagle line. I have the Flathead VI. Its environmentally sealed, great breather, well reviewed, built in Fla., and if you have any issues or questions, you can get the answers here direct from manufacturer Scott himself. Just great customer service and another great reg.

 

[SkipperJohn]

I've done a bit of homework and learned what environmentally sealed means and why it's used (and why it complicated the first stage). Most of my diving will be traveling to the Caribbean. When I do dive these parts I plan on it being in the summer and never plan on diving a dry suit. Also, my diving will be exclusively salt water. Do you think I still need an environmentally sealed first stage? At what temps does ice become an issue? (I understand that as air passes the first stage it releases energy and therefore gets cold or colder than the surrounding air or water).

 

[D_B]

From reading here I see that SP G250's are highly rated, support/service parts are available almost forever, and the new G250V has a metal air barrel.

I'm glad I listened to my instructor's regulator buying advice .. he said get a good quality, middle of the road reg, avoid the "good enough for now/entry level regulator" not because they are unsafe (none of them are) but because a good reg will last a lifetime of diving and you don't want to find yourself wishing for a better breathing regulator a short time later.
... I have two Mk18/G250HP's