Roll Control System

[rrweather]

Thanks Wil. I'm glad you mentioned the mounting kit. It looks like if it is used, the track doesn't sit flush on whatever it is mounted to. I was wondering if mounting it straight to the boat was possible. I am all for saving a few bucks as well. I am going to go with the same setup you did. I appreciate the help.

 

[Chuck Tribolet]

Chuck,

On my boat we secure the tanks with BCDs assembled for the entire trip. Roll control brackets work fine with BCD on or off. I should also note the brackets have little to no space between them in the AL track. For doubles we use two brackets and tie the tanks in using the two outermost brackets. Even with integrated weights, BCD, canister lights, etc, the brackets work fine in all conditions.

The normal Roll Control brackets work with a BC on (provided the
strap around the tank isn't in just the wrong place, but the #430
is new (since the last time I was on the RC website) and it goes
all the way around the tank, so I think it would be problematic
with a BC on.

The channel can be mounted directly to the boat provided that
the boat is flat as a board at that point and that the surface it's
mounted to is vertical enough that the tank can stand on the
deck. In my case I had to mount the channel about two and a
half inches out from the console so the tanks could stand. I
fabricated the mounts from aluminum stock from OSH (that's our
local HW store chain for the non-Californians.

I MIGHT one of the
mounting kits that you (rrweather) can have (free). I'm in Morgan
Hill if we can figure out how to get it to you. I won't be able
to check until tomorrow morning.

 

[rrweather]

Thank you Chuck. That is very generous. I am going to go back to your boat page to look at your pictures again. I will have to double check my mounting locations. I think two of them are perfectly flat and vertical. The other two may be a problem. I would prefer the track being mounted directly to the boat. It makes sense that the length of the track has to be flat so I will have to check again. I would think that the doubles mounting brackets would be a little more tolerant of not being exactly perfect since the bracket itself holds the tank. With the PVC mount, the rubber elastic strap holds the tank in place so I would think you would want the strap laying flat against the tank to be most effective.

Chuck, did you use the "boating" version of Dri-deck? Their site seems to indicate there are different versions of the product. Also, while I am picking your brain, how do you set up your tag lines and the current line? I am trying to determine where I will put each line and the ladder I am going to purchase. Thank you again for the help (and offer).

Randy

 

[Wil]

Randy,

Chuck's spot on with his comments about the BCD tank straps. Depending on how tall the tank is and location of the strap buckle you may have to make adjustments.

As for lines, on my boat I use a 5/8 braided line off a rear cleat suspended vertically for the "down line" (same side as the ladder). I tied SS rings about every 5ft or so for equipment with a simple overhand knot. Weighting it down is a 25lb soft weight. Total length of the "down line" is 30ft (want the weight well below the divers). The "assist line" runs from the 25ft ring on the "down line" to the anchor line and it's attached with a shackle. I used 75 feet of 1/2in 3-strand line which secures to the anchor line with an anchoring ring (~6in SS loop). It's also got a soft weight (15lbs) attached to get it to slide down the anchor line. The weighting I use works pretty well in the surface current we have here in Va. However, divers need to understand they must have their buoyancy under control before they transit the "assist line", otherwise they float it up and make it difficult for others to follow.

Once a diver splashes it's easy for them to remain in physical contact with the boat all the way to the bottom. Behind the boat I also tie off a polypropylene 1/2 line (run out about 175ft) to a cleat on the opposite side of the boat. On its end is an orange life ring. You'll want to use a ring becase it's got hand holds. Using a buoy can be difficult for a tired diver to hold too.

I hope this helps, it's just the system I use.

Safe Diving,
Wil

 

[SkimFisher]

I just ordered mine two weeks ago. Haven't installed it yet but it looks pretty sturdy.

 

[rrweather]

Thanks Wil,

That helps a lot. Right now my tanks are doubled up and looking at them, the PVC mount with the strap would not work without me removing the BP/W. I'm glad you guys brought this up because it never crossed my mind that the strap wouldn't go around the tank with a BC on it. I am going to order the adjustable brackets and just use them for doubles like you did. If you can go miles off shore with no issues, it will work on my boat. We will never be going more than a mile or two from the boat ramp.

Thanks for the description of the lines. I am trying to figure out what I need for rope so I can order it online. West Marine isn't known for their low prices so I'd like to save a few bucks getting it somewhere else, especially if I am ordering a bunch of rope. This gives me a good idea of what I need so I can put together an order.

It's been a while (a few years) since I've ordered any boating equipment online. Are there any sites that offer good value. I mainly need stainless hardware, rope, etc. I also need to order a ladder. Surprisingly West Marine has pretty decent prices on it and they offer the free 'ship to store.' I also need a light for my trailer and they seem to be the only place that sells what I need. Most of their other stuff is priced higher than other places I've found. Not sure if there are any leisure pros of the boating world. Thanks again for the help.

Randy

 

[Nemrod]

For tag lines, trailing lines and equipment lines most people use cheap polypropylene which is the stuff used for ski ropes. The reason is that it floats. Most hardware stores and home stores have this rope and often in bright colors. You might put some small ski line floats on it to help it float and make it visible.

N

 

[Chuck Tribolet]

Well, I bought the Dri-Dek from West Marine. And I don't see various types
on the Dri-Dek website, just different form factors and colors. Note that
the 1'x1' squares are the cheapest per sq foot.

My dock lines are attached to the bow lifting eye (make this one a different
color than the anchor line so you tell people: "get the red dock line out of
the bow locker), and to the two stern lifting eyes (doubles as tag lines).
The nylon tag lines for tanks are attached to the side rails midship,
bungie cord tag lines for cameras are attached to the side rails about 3/4
of the way aft. Dock lines and nylon tag lines are 3/8" three-strand nylon.

Poly MUST be spliced. Knots don't hold in it. My current line is 150' of three-strand
1/4" yellow poly with a small boat fender on the end. There's SS swivel
just ahead of the fender which helps keep the current line from sinking.

 

[Wil]

Another good point from Chuck - different lines for the anchor and "Tag Line". On my boat the tag/assist line is 3-strand and the anchor is 8-plaited (braided).

I ordered my dri-deck from Discount Marine and Boat Supplies - Inflatable Sales - Defender and another site to consider Hamilton Marine Supplies Both are very good with prices for equipment and service (like splicing chain to plaited anchor rode). It would be hard to beat their pricing on most items.

As for the ladder...diving destroys your typical "boat ladder". Consider the weight you're bringing aboard (tanks, lead, you...wet), then consider the pitching/rolling moment, most ladders won't last a season or two. I had an Armstrong ladder (3-rung) on my Parker 28 and it lasted only the first season. The mounting bracket couldn't take the load and a 3-rung ladder just isn't long enough. I had a local marine manufacturer fabricate a 4-rung ladder and heavy duty mounting from stainless steel. It costs a bit but it's worth it everytime you come out of the water. If you dive a lot, you may want to consider the ladder issue. Then again, you can always pass your BCD w/tank up the ladder to a buddy on the boat. It saves the ladder, might ding your boat's gelcoat once or twice, but the real feature it's a sure way to get a workout after a dive - be careful about the heavy lifting immediately after a dive.

Safe Diving,
Wil

 

[Nemrod]

I use three strand twisted nylon for anchor, braided lines for docking and handling, poly for tag, equipment and trailing (current) lines.

I have and no issues boarding with gear on and prefer doing so as not to require lifting it aboard in seas and having it smash into my boat. Ladders are cheap and so far have done OK for me, three rung is perfect for us. But, we are not a commercial dive boat and we don't wear doubles up the ladder and my wife and I are not large people so we do just fine.

I have had fisherman run over my trailing line several times so I now use the small floats or a fender to keep it readily visible with a dive flag/float clipped to the end.

N