RX100 Mark 1, Meikon housing?

Please register or login

Welcome to ScubaBoard, the world's largest scuba diving community. Registration is not required to read the forums, but we encourage you to join. Joining has its benefits and enables you to participate in the discussions.

Benefits of registering include

  • Ability to post and comment on topics and discussions.
  • A Free photo gallery to share your dive photos with the world.
  • You can make this box go away

Joining is quick and easy. Log in or Register now!

Scratches are mostly visible when dry - If you don't know what you are doing with 'polish' you might do more harm than good. Practice first on an old CD, or CD case. Remember to grease the o-ring before your first use - Meikon ships them dry. Desiccant packs are really tight inside the Meikon cases - check fit before you leave as desiccant is often not available in remote locals.
 
I used black electrical tape to mask the flash. Took a few hours to cut the pieces just right, but works great!
 
A little late in posting, but main issue I have is that it doesn't have tiny holes or cutouts in the lens port thread to let water in and out, thus if you have a wet lens screwed on above water, once you entered the water, you have to unscrew it, let water in, then screw it back on. If you are not careful, too busy descending, etc, you can drop the lens, which I did once (and with the switch to this housing, I stopped using the lens lanyard), and now I am ultra careful every time I perform that task.

I don't worry too much about internal flash shining through the housing since the dome port blocks pretty much everything and I have to use external strobe.

I think the Recsea has plastic lens threads, which would strip pretty soon, especially when putting the lens on in non-ideal condition. I thought this cheap housing would have plastic threads too, but it turns out to be metal.
 
A little late in posting, but main issue I have is that it doesn't have tiny holes or cutouts in the lens port thread to let water in and out, thus if you have a wet lens screwed on above water, once you entered the water, you have to unscrew it, let water in, then screw it back on. If you are not careful, too busy descending, etc, you can drop the lens, which I did once (and with the switch to this housing, I stopped using the lens lanyard), and now I am ultra careful every time I perform that task.

Fifty bucks eliminate this problem completely: Howshot M67 Magnetic Lens Mount with Lock- Howshot magnetic 67mm threaded mount base is suitable for M6
 

The thing with WA lens, the rear element should be very close to the housing port's front glass, otherwise, vignetting, softness and such will creep up. I was even going to change my Inon type 2 mount to a type 1, since the protrusion of the lens with a type 1 mount's protrusion seem to be the same contour as Meikon housing's port intrusion. But a few attempts at trying to remove the screws made me change my mind.

That unit seems to be good for closeup lens, which seems to be what they imply it should be used for.

I though of drilling some small holes onto the side of the housing port's threaded flange, but the thought of metal shavings interfering with the threading process and never getting the threads fully smooth, I just went on with the rescrewing the lens on while underwater routine.
 
The Meikon's dome is not a lens, but just a port. Its rear element doesn't project image like a WA wet lens does, where it has a limited exit pupil.
 
That won't work, because the lens side has a cavity too, so you'll end up with a compartment half-full of air. Also, removing the dome underwater is useful when you want to switch between wide-angle and macro.
 
That won't work, because the lens side has a cavity too, so you'll end up with a compartment half-full of air. Also, removing the dome underwater is useful when you want to switch between wide-angle and macro.

I just screw it on inside the rinse tank, plus my Inon wide angle has no cavity inside, I even end up squeezing some water out.

If you'll be changing lenses under water anyway, then this is a moot point.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/swift/

Back
Top Bottom