Scubapro Mk10 - low intermediate pressure

[Couv]

... can I put a seat protector diaphragm cover [Say from an R380] on a G1 or G2 S600?

I'm not familiar with those models. A "seat protector diaphragm cover" is an excellent idea for some models-but not a new one. Dacor had a "C" shaped device that clipped over the second stage front cover. It was made of plastic and had a button in the middle that would press on the purge button. The owner would install this device while the regulator was in storage.

SP had/had various accessories to accomplish the same thing. Some good ideas, some not so. One cool device was a key that fit into the "S" insignia. When installed it held the pressure off of the soft seat. Another not so cool attempt was a plastic teardrop shaped item that fit between the metal and rubber diaphragm covers. It did it's job, but over time distorted the rubber cover.

Quite frankly, I don't know how much value any of this is in a pneumatically balanced-flow thru poppet. The spring pressure is very light-especially, if like Dr. @rsingler and a few others not to be named, adjust the cracking effort down into the abyss.

Image taken from:
scuba regulator dacor depressors - Google Search

 

[shurite7]

That is what I have had for many years...without issues....but, of course, read on the internet about folks with unsealed piston regs that are "nuts" to dive in cold water [below 50F]...so...I figured, I might drop IP a bit and give a little extra margin. The lakes and ocean around my area do not drop below 40F except maybe once in a few decades.

Well, when it comes to the internet, if you are not reading it you are uninformed. If you are reading it you are misinformed.

I've found the Mk25 EVO and MK25AF handles cold water (to me cold water is lower 40s and 30s) quite well. I've been in 34 degree water with no issues with the Mk25, while my buddy's environmentally sealed diaphragm reg (brand I'll leave out) let go. When it comes to regs free flowing in cold water the second stage plays a very significant role. In the vast majority of the cases that I've dealt with it has been the second stage that was froze up.

I am well aware of the Mk10 and Mk20 having issues in cold water. I haven't dealt with it first hand, although mine, when I had them, worked quite well. I've always wondered how many of those who told about their issues knew whether it was first stage or the second stage that froze up. When I asked them, they didn't know. Only one person, who knows his stuff, was able to point out it was the first stage. Setting the cracking effort on the 2nd stage to the higher range (1.3/1.4 for example) is recommended when diving in cold water.

FYI, you can push in the purge on the R195, just slightly, and rotate it to release pressure from the poppet seat when it is being stored. As Rsingler mentioned above, it does help with preserving the integrity of the poppet seat.

 

[Perryed]

If you have an inline adjuster, why not just back it off the seat and when readying it for the next dive trip readjust the cracking pressure. It would only take a couple of minutes at most

 

[Andrew Dawson]

If you have an inline adjuster, why not just back it off the seat and when readying it for the next dive trip readjust the cracking pressure. It would only take a couple of minutes at most

I'm diving a few times a week, so, no storage of regs for me. I'm going to build the purge release out of PVC like singler

Mr. Sunday, can you confirm that metal air barrel P/N,please?

 

[Mr. Sunday]

Mr. Sunday, can you confirm that metal air barrel P/N,please?

Part #11.602.020

 

[Rusty Shackleford]

Make sure you have the right knob assembly to fit that air barrel.

 

[Andrew Dawson]

BTW, thank you for the schematic, lexvil!!

Thanks, Mr. Sunday!!

Rusty, earlier, Mr.Sunday said he used his original knob...which would be awesome

For me, using the metal air barrel has the pros of being stronger(prevents the issue of the plastic barrels cracking), better heat transfer, might help with dry mouth, and the cons of cost and being heavier. Plus, I love to tinker with this stuff...provided I am following the conservative and safe path

 

[Rusty Shackleford]

And I agree, plastic air barrels are a bad idea. If for no other reason than lack of condensation and returned moisture from metal.

 

[Rusty Shackleford]

I have some kits to convert G-250HPs and G-500s to a metal air barrel and my lazy ass hasn’t tried them yet. I need to convert a couple.

 

[Andrew Dawson]

Git 'er done, Rusty!!

I am very excited to make these changes...provided...the parts fit correctly and the metal barrels are a correct/diret replacement for the plastic ones. I do not need to re-engineer the wheel...nor roll the dice on my safety more than makes sense