servicing Hog D1x compared to Apeks DST

Please register or login

Welcome to ScubaBoard, the world's largest scuba diving community. Registration is not required to read the forums, but we encourage you to join. Joining has its benefits and enables you to participate in the discussions.

Benefits of registering include

  • Ability to post and comment on topics and discussions.
  • A Free photo gallery to share your dive photos with the world.
  • You can make this box go away

Joining is quick and easy. Log in or Register now!

reefrat

Contributor
Messages
573
Reaction score
221
Location
Houston Texas and Grand Turk
Has anyone familiar with servicing Hog D1 first stages looked the Apeks service manual for the DST (on the "Frogkick" website)?
I cant find a HOG service manual for a D1 so I am wondering if the Apeks manual can be used instead or if there are significant differences in the parts/procedure/torque settings etc.
 
IMO, the DST manual will serve you just fine in working the D1. From a service procedure standpoint, the parts differences are insignificant.
My only disagreement with both that manual and my instruction from HOG, is that I believe the HP chamber should be assembled FIRST (see Scubapro's Mk17 manual). The reason is that you can drop a few drops of water into the hole for the pushrod, and determine immediately whether you have a HP seal, before you add the diaphragm.
 
IMO, the DST manual will serve you just fine in working the D1. The parts differences are insignificant.
My only disagreement with both that manual and my instruction from HOG, is that I believe the HP chamber should be assembled FIRST (see Scubapro's Mk17 manual). The reason is that you can drop a few drops of water into the hole for the pushrod, and determine immediately whether you have a HP seal, before you add the diaphragm.
A few drops of water, sitting with surface tension is unlikely to show you anything but a gross issue and is nowhere near what tank pressure will exert on the seat.
 
A few drops of water, sitting with surface tension is unlikely to show you anything but a gross issue and is nowhere near what tank pressure will exert on the seat.
I was too cryptic in my comment. Sorry!
What I meant was: assemble the HP side, and then pressurize the half-assembled reg. Your seat is thus exposed to full tank pressure, and ANY bubble thru your few drops of water will disclose a HP sealing issue before you assemble the rest of the reg.
I've always felt that diaphragm regs should be assembled HP-side first, for this quick test, as described in the SP Mk17 manual.
20180224_184753.jpg
A dowel floating on a pressurized half-assembled diaphragm reg with a teaspoon of water in the bowl where the diaphragm sits. As one can quickly see: no leaks!
To clear for continued assembly, just drop in the pin and the hat, depress, and poof! All the water is gone! (It helps to use less than the full teaspoon I used for this photo, lol! You'll get sprayed otherwise.)
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/teric/

Back
Top Bottom