Sherwood Regulator Identification

[DarkNasty]

Hi I'm hoping to get some help identifying this setup. Clearly one second is a Shadow. I am looking for the id of the first stage and the other 2nd. I tried to capture the vanes in the mouth piece as that might help. Picked this up cheap from a couple who's father passed away and they said owned a shop. The story was it had been dropped off for service and never picked up. Serial number on the 2nd without the Shewood logo is Z107251.

 

[Diver0001]

Not much of a mystery. The name is printed right on the second stage.

It's a Sherwood Shadow. The one without the face plate is also a Shadow second stage. It will date from the late 80's or early 90's.

In terms of technology they are very similar to regulators that are still on the market today. In terms of work of breathing they will compare to the Brut and won't be quite as comfortable as say a modern Apeks or Aqualung at very deep depths but the design has proven itself over the years to be pretty bulletproof so there is no reason why you shouldn't be able to dive with it once it has been serviced.

R..

 

[DarkNasty]

Ok, thanks for the reply. As I said, I was pretty sure I knew what one 2nd was. I just didn't know if it was a set or what. So the first is also referred to as Shadow?

 

[Diver0001]

I owned a Sherwood in the past but I'm not a Sherwood guru. However if I'm not mistaken Sherwood used the same basic 1st stage for several different sets (Brut, Magnum, Shadow, Maximus). It seems to me that the differences are mainly in the 2nd stage design.

... and why wouldn't they? It's one of the most robust 1st stage designs in the history of our sport.

does this 1st stage have a "dry bleed"? The dry bleed looks like a little rubber stopper in the 1st stage. When the regulator is charged it will let out a small stream of bubbles. This is normal and it is necessary because the 1st stage design is a piston. The advantage of a piston regulator is that it only has 1 moving bit and it's pretty much bulletproof, but most piston regulators let water inside in order to balance the pressures. Sherwood found a way to make a piston regulator that stays dry on the inside so it is much less prone to freezing and much less vulnerable to pollutants in the water.

The bleed, as I said, looks like a bit of a black rubber cap. This cap is not normally not replaced with service so if it has one and it's been laying around for a long time then get it carefully inspected and/or replaced when you take it for service.

Same goes for hoses. If it's been laying around for a long time, consider getting the hoses replaced as a precaution. Better safe than sorry.

R..

 

[DarkNasty]

Yes, that makes sense. If it works, stick with it. Yes, there is a small rubber cap in the first. It looks to be in good shape, no drying or cracking visible. But, I'll be sure to ask for a closer inspection of the bleed when I have it serviced.

 

[rhwestfall]

Rugged first stage. Soft parts available to keep it going. I'm rebuilding one with an early Magnum Blizzard second for a buddy to use. Legndary, but only a modest performer. Good modest recreational reg.

 

[Ghetto Diver]

The 1st stage looks like a srb3205 or srb 3305. Either way, a hard to kill 1st stage.
The Shadow sux...just sayin'. Sell that off.
Pick up an adjustable first stage for your primary. Use the other Oasis/Blizzard 2nd stage as your second. These seconds are good and can be tuned just right, but I find myself re-tuning them every so often. I use one on my bailout, slightly de-tuned to prevent free flow.
I own [ed] A LOT of Sherwoods, and use them a lot as well. Their first stages are easily rebuilt. Kits are dirt cheap and can be had easily. I'm cheap so, I make my own kits from supplies at McMaster-Carr.
I have 2 that I have not changed the HP seat in about 5 years. I dive just about every weekend too.
There are those that claim that these are "shallow water" regulators. Not sure where this bs started. But, as far as recreational diving, you won't notice the difference from one of these from a Scubapro MK20.
Also, a tip to prevent sea water entry into the dry bleed system.
After your dive, soak the reg charged to a tank. I use a cooler and my bailout bottle. After soaking, remove and turn tank valve off. Do not purge the reg...the dry bleed system will discharge the air and dry out the bleed system. This will take a bit mind you. Salt water can get into the system if not cleaned/purged and will kill the little filter that is on the piston. Ask me how I know.
Have fun with your new acquisition!

 

[oly5050user]

Those pistons are not easily available. Good luck finding one. Design is obsolete. Worked well,easy to service,but parts may not be available. Do not invest too much money in it.

 

[underH2Oman]

The first stage would have been used on several models back then. The second stage that has no markings is likely a blizzard or an oasis. they were very similar with a few differences. the Blizzard would have a Teflon coated lever and the intermediate pressure would be around 125psi verses around 145psi for the oasis.

 

[KeithG]

According to the manuals I have, what you have appears to be a bit of a Frankensteen. But back then I think dealers did a lot of mix and match.

The octo is a Shadow SR3208 and is designed to eliminate the need for an extra BCD inflator hose. It connects to your BCD. So no need for that extra inflator hose. Is it a good idea? Maybe not...

Since the primary has fins it is either a Blizzard, Oasis or a Classic. Since it does not have a vanity faceplate it is likely a Classic. But check inside, if the lever has a black teflon coating it is a Blizzard with the wrong faceplate.

The first stage will be a either a Magnum II SRB3305 or a Blizzard SRB3205. You would have to dissassemble it to determine. They are mostly identical except for some details of the moving orifice.

If you google for sherwood Magnum II SRB3300 you should be able to find the service manual for the first stage and the primary.

Be prepared for your LDS to claim that it is too old, unsafe and can not be serviced. Service kits and spare first and second stages can regularly be found on eBay.