Shooting RAW, auto white balance, & strobes

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I shoot raw+jpeg with all my cameras (land and UW). With the underwater photos, the jpegs get used for my website/dive log and the raw images get imported into lightroom. That is one superb photo program - easily the best I've used so far.

What I like best about lightroom is that I put my raw files where I want on the computer, and then point lightroom's import to that directory. It loads them in but does not move them. I then create virtual copies of all the imported images and store them in various folders (inside lightroom). With virtual copies I can edit however I want and still keep the original around for comparison. The virtual copies take up almost no space compared to the actual raw file.
 
With virtual copies I can edit however I want and still keep the original around for comparison.
I don't really see any great advantage to that. For me, virtual copies are for those occasions when I want two different edits of the image. Say, different crops or different color adjustments. I can always go into the edit history and roll back my edits to see how the original looked like (not that I ever feel the need to, though).

And the virtual copies exist only inside your Lightroom catalog file, that's why they're called virtual copies. They only take up space when you generate a JPEG from that virtual copy.

The last point here, though, is a major paradigm shift when/if you start using Lightroom. I'm so old that I remember film (or "analog photography" as the kids call it nowadays. Now get off my lawn!). For me, the original camera file - be it raw file or JPEG - is like the film negative. You don't ever change that, you just process it in different ways. The edited image exists only in your imagination until you generate a finished JPEG. That's a brand new file, much like the paper copy made from the negative was a new physical image. So you never change or copy the camera file, you just give LR instructions about how to tweak the representation of that file when it makes a working JPEG for you. The generated JPEG can then safely be deleted from your harddisk after you've uploaded it, sent it to the lab to produce a paper copy or emailed it to your mom¹. The only thing that takes up space on your harddisk is the instructions in the LR catalog file about how that particular image should be post-processed. It's fundamentally different from editing a picture in Photoshop, or a letter in MS Word, and really understanding this different paradigm was the only thing I had to spend a little time to get used to. The great advantage, though, is that any edit you do is fully reversible (it's just instructions, right?), so the hassle of keeping copies of the different edits of the same image is avoided (IMG_123_Edit1, IMG_123_Edit2, IMG_123_Edit1_2, etc. And after two weeks you won't remember how you edited IMG_123_Edit2_1_3, even at gunpoint...)


¹ OK, I have to admit I don't follow that rule fully myself. I always generate one full-sized JPEG from each image I want to keep, and that JPEG is archived in another place than my original image files, to doubly ensure compatibility in the future. While the JPEG format is an extremely well established and almost universal standard, raw file formats differ between camera manufacturers and even between camera models from the same manufacturer. So I'm not quite sure that I'll be able to read my camera raw files a few decades from now, when software producers and camera manufacturers have come and gone.
 
I was just being concise. I've been a photographer since the early '70s when I read every photography book in the university library during my lunch hours. I've got and read several excellent books on Lightroom as well as UW photography, and am fully aware of the features and uses of Lightroom. I was merely praising the software and giving a brief illustration of how I use it rather than an in-depth review.
 
I always shoot RAW and leave white balance set to auto. I edit everything in Lightroom, which can be time consuming but is a processs that I enjoy overall. In terms of white balance and Lightroom, the amount of adjustment varies quite a bit. If it's a shot at night with good strobe illumination, almost no changes are needed. If it's ambient light, significant adjustments might make the shot look better. If the strobes hit, but there's a good mix of strobe and ambient, then I usually spend some time tweaking WB. One nice thing in Lightroom - if you have a set of images that were taken with roughly the same light conditions, you can find the right WB, then copy and paste that value to the other images. Some tweaking is needed, but it can save time. When I'm teaching a LR class, I usually use this image as an example of the power of LR:

uwphotoclass-LR1s.jpg


It's not a great shot, but then again I've only seen the Lyretail Grouper once, so I'll take a fishbutt shot over nothing :)
 
Great example, Brian. I do pretty much the same. Our vis is frequently so poor that natural light just gives a great green photo. Strobes and video light bring the color back, but Lightroom is still great for tweaks. I too use auto white balance.

I used to take a grey card (plastic, on a bungee) on every dive and took one photo of it in the vicinity of where I took most of my photos. I'd use that to adjust the white balance of all the shots. The change was so small that I finally quit taking the card, as the auto white balance was doing a very good job when the strobe was used.

I didn't use the grey card on natural light shots but I guess it could help there. I just don't do that many natural light shots as it's frequently so dark in our waters. My good natural light shots are on really sunny days in 15ft of water looking up at a dock, and there a bit of green doesn't hurt. :)
 
I used to take a grey card (plastic, on a bungee) on every dive and took one photo of it in the vicinity of where I took most of my photos. I'd use that to adjust the white balance of all the shots. The change was so small that I finally quit taking the card, as the auto white balance was doing a very good job when the strobe was used.
I find that a little bit of WB tweaking is almost always necessary, and the amount of tweaking depends on strobe-subject distance. So even if two pictures were taken almost at the same place, I'd still tweak them slightly differently if the distance to the subject was different.

I, too, dive primarily in green water BTW.
 
I should also point out that although I'm quite computer-savvy (career since 1979 and now teaching Comp Sci at university level) I was late to the game of photo editing on the computer. I'm not a "photo-shop" nerd by any stretch and would not have gotten into it if it weren't for Lightroom. To me, that program is one of the best that I've seen.

Even with good books and tutorials, there are probably many features of Lightroom I don't use to the full potential, but it does work for what I want. :)

I should also mention that I still have a Chromega Dichroic-B enlarger, though I have not shot film in over a decade now.
 
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I, too, dive primarily in green water BTW.

Anywhere near where I am?

It's sure dark and green these days. Decent visibility, but my go-pro clone video footage off the scooter is just so... dark. There's this little stab of light where the 18W HID penetrates.

I built a mount to hold the Sola and the go-pro clone on the scooter go-pro mount yesterday. Trying it Friday. Film at 11. ;-) I doubt it will illuminate much on the journey, but close up to things it should improve the video and even allow a photo or two.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/swift/

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