Solo Diving Checklist? Musts?
- Thread starter copter53
- Start date
Please register or login
Welcome to ScubaBoard, the world's largest scuba diving community. Registration is not required to read the forums, but we encourage you to join. Joining has its benefits and enables you to participate in the discussions.
Benefits of registering include
- Ability to post and comment on topics and discussions.
- A Free photo gallery to share your dive photos with the world.
- You can make this box go away
There are two types of serrated edges, single and double beveled. The flat back/single bevel edges are simpler; you only work the flat side. You have to use a cylindrical hone or fine file for double edge serrations and rounded edge line cutter hooks.
For line cutter hooks, you can’t beat a Z-knife with opposing replaceable blades. A Z-knife is all you need for monofilament or lines smaller than ¼” — which are your greatest entanglement risk on normal recreational dives. Larger lines are much easier to untangle yourself from. Besides, you don’t have to worry about slashing hoses, drysuit, or fingers with a Z-knife in black water or a rescue emergency. Best of all, no sharpening skills or tools required.
http://www.scubaboard.com/forums/knives-cutting-tools/315577-great-z-knife.html
Before you spend much time on a difficult-to-sharpen edge, make sure the knife is made of a metal capable of developing and maintaining a good edge — too many dive knives aren’t. The most highly rust resistant 300 series stainless steels have metallurgical properties that make it hopeless. There are many different Titanium alloys, which I don’t know enough about to recommend. Just because you see Titanium knifes that are razor sharp does not mean that all Titanium knives can be that good. Heat treating can also be a factor.
You really need to understand that is happening to the metal on the cutting edge to make it work. It is very difficult to get a good cutting edge just from reading or being told what to do, unless someone watching to coach or you have access to powerful microscopy instruments. Leonard Lee’s book includes photos and illustrations with text to explain what is happening at the microscopic level so you can visualize what is happening as you sharpen. You can work an edge for hours with no joy because you unknowingly roll the burr or remove too much material from the inside edge of the bevel… at least my brain is wired that way.
Last edited:
Similar threads
