Sony A6XXX and battery life and strobe considerations

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Sevin,

The same port that works with the kit lens SEL15-50mm works with the Sigma 19mm Art. The zoom gear is simply not used. I imagine somebody could print a gear (for focus) but not sure why that would be needed. The Sigma lens seems to snap quickly to focus with no problems. So, no, you do not need to purchase another port. :)

I think you should try your S-2000 strobes, it does not cost you anything, since you already have them. I am coming over from my FIX/S90 system. I am an old in the day Nikonos guy and I like to keep things compact. This outfit is really small in the water even with the WWL-1 installed.

The TTL converter, I am still working with that. The reason I invested in it is simple, flexibility. I can select full manual strobe without preflash with the converter. This speeds up the camera and of course does not use the camera and battery to trigger the strobes. Also, I can disconnect the converter, leaving it installed, and use my camera strobe to optically fire the strobes for whatever reason I might want to. Another and, or select the strobe profile for the S-2000 on the converter and do sTTL . The converter, in theory, just adds a lot of flexibility to the system.

James
 
thanks Nemrod! I'll pick up the lens later today, and I'm definitely going to do a trip with the s2000's before I do anything else.

My wife hasn't cut me off yet on gearing up....but I'm sure it's not far away!
 
You should grab the Sigma 19mm, just my opinion. It gives essentially the same set up for the A6XXX and WWL-1 as the A7 full frame and Sony 28mm with the WWL-1, a relatively fast, fixed focal length prime lens. You can still zoom, you just do that with your fins :) .

James
 
I want to be able to set up for a day of diving without having to open the housing (unless something changes in the day of course). A day of diving being three 50 minute dives. I think with the auxiliary battery pack and the TTL converter that should be easy.

So which lens? 1) Okay, I am thinking if I might want to take bare port fish pics on dive one, maybe move into the shallows on dive two and do macro with the CMC-2 and then on dive three do some CFWA with the WWL-1, I would install the Sony zoom PZ15-50mm lens and bring my WWL-1 and CMC-2 macro lens in my boat bag. 2) Or, maybe a couple of wreck dives and then some reef scenics and CFWA, then I will install the Sigma 19mm and dive the WWL-1. 3) Or, an option most will not have or need but I had it so why not, for CFWA, reef scenics and wrecks and maybe ambient light WA, install the Rokinon 24mm and bayonet mount my trusty old Inon UWL100 Type 1 with dome. It is slightly more compact than the WWL-1 but without a float collar, it is not exactly lighter. But shorter by a little.

N
 
Barm, if I might ask a few questions about your TTL converter? Which one do you have and is it working reliably? I ask because I am having some serious faults and I am not sure what to think or even if I am doing some wrong to cause it?

James
Hi,
I met years ago in Grand Cayman. Purchased A6600 before my last trip. Nauticam didn't come out with the Flash trigger yet. Purchased a UW Technics trigger. It had many issues. They said I had a defective board. The TTL worked great for less than 2 dives. System went down for rest of the trip. Good Luck
 
. I think with the auxiliary battery pack and the TTL converter that should be easy.

So which lens? 1) Okay, I am thinking if I might want to take bare port fish pics on dive one, maybe move into the shallows on dive two and do macro with the CMC-2 and then on dive three do some CFWA with the WWL-1, I would install the Sony zoom PZ15-50mm lens and bring my WWL-1 and CMC-2 macro lens in my boat bag. 2) Or, maybe a couple of wreck dives and then some reef scenics and CFWA, then I will install the Sigma 19mm and dive the WWL-1. 3) Or, an option most will not have or need but I had it so why not, for CFWA, reef scenics and wrecks and maybe ambient light WA, install the Rokinon 24mm and bayonet mount my trusty old Inon UWL100 Type 1 with dome. It is slightly more compact than the WWL-1 but without a float collar, it is not exactly lighter. But shorter by a little.

N

I bought the battery pack too, I'm guessing we will get to burn through it + the normal battery before it goes dead correct? I thought about buying a second auxiliary battery pack but I think it may be over kill for a day....or i hope it would be. I don't like to open my camera until I'm done for the day, but it wasn't possible on a liveaboard with my rx100.

I had a Inon UWL100 type 2 with the dome unit, and just sold it. In what situations do you think you'll use it over your WWL-1? I've not messed with installing the collar yet, i did pick it up though.
 
I bought the battery pack too, I'm guessing we will get to burn through it + the normal battery before it goes dead correct? I thought about buying a second auxiliary battery pack but I think it may be over kill for a day....or i hope it would be. I don't like to open my camera until I'm done for the day, but it wasn't possible on a liveaboard with my rx100.

I do not know the answer on this yet. I assume it operates like a cascade. As the camera battery is drained it is topped by the aux. battery. Or, does the camera pull from both? My dining room table dives and my two pool dives seem to indicate decent battery life with the aux. battery installed. I think I can do two full dives on the camera battery alone.

James
 
Hi,
I met years ago in Grand Cayman. Purchased A6600 before my last trip. Nauticam didn't come out with the Flash trigger yet. Purchased a UW Technics trigger. It had many issues. They said I had a defective board. The TTL worked great for less than 2 dives. System went down for rest of the trip. Good Luck

Have you contacted the company or purchase point for replacement? Mine failed on the second dining room table simulated dive. I am hopeful that it was a fluke. Most folks seem happy. But, this is exactly why I did not get the A6600, I wanted an onboard flash to fall back on. How do you know or I know the Nauticam trigger would not go TU?

Steve, immediately after my trip to Cayman, I was involved in a bicycle accident (triathlon prep), broken femur and a mild (?) stroke. I recall virtually nothing for about three weeks prior to the event, it is a frustrating blank hole in my memory. So if we met in Cayman, howdy!

James
 
Have you contacted the company or purchase point for replacement? Mine failed on the second dining room table simulated dive. I am hopeful that it was a fluke. Most folks seem happy. But, this is exactly why I did not get the A6600, I wanted an onboard flash to fall back on. How do you know or I know the Nauticam trigger would not go TU?

Steve, immediately after my trip to Cayman, I was involved in a bicycle accident (triathlon prep), broken femur and a mild (?) stroke. I recall virtually nothing for about three weeks prior to the event, it is a frustrating blank hole in my memory. So if we met in Cayman, howdy!

James
Have you contacted the company or purchase point for replacement? Mine failed on the second dining room table simulated dive. I am hopeful that it was a fluke. Most folks seem happy. But, this is exactly why I did not get the A6600, I wanted an onboard flash to fall back on. How do you know or I know the Nauticam trigger would not go TU?

Steve, immediately after my trip to Cayman, I was involved in a bicycle accident (triathlon prep), broken femur and a mild (?) stroke. I recall virtually nothing for about three weeks prior to the event, it is a frustrating blank hole in my memory. So if we met in Cayman, howdy!

James
Hi James,
Sorry to hear about your accident. Happy you are doing well now. You and your wife couldn't have been any nicer or helpful when we meet . Backscatter has my system and they are working on a solution. They are going to test All options first and then make a new recommendation. They have been absolutely great in their response and handling of this issue.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/teric/

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