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Tell Us About Your Hogarthian Rig

Discussion in 'Hogarthian Diving' started by Quarrior, Sep 2, 2004.

  1. GreenDiverDown

    GreenDiverDown Instructor, Scuba

    3,138
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    Thanks.

    I just got a new Sandroff can and I have lots of questions!

    Stephen
     
  2. CALI68

    CALI68 Manta Ray

    # of Dives: I'm a Fish!
    Location: San Jose, CA
    1,236
    2
    0
    Since Bob was on the subject of the light I had a couple questions:

    When do you turn the light on? When you get in the water or before? Also, you can't turn them on and off during the dive right?


    Thanks!
    -Chris
     
  3. BCSGratefulDiver

    BCSGratefulDiver Mental toss flycoon ScubaBoard Supporter

    # of Dives: 2,500 - 4,999
    Location: On the Fun Side of Trump's Wall
    73,138
    57,121
    113
    I've heard that's a pretty nice light. If this is your first HID light, make sure you do ask a lot of questions ... a certain amount of routine care is required to avoid flooding and bulb replacement.

    BTW - a Pelican case is a good investment. They're a bit pricey ... but less than the cost of a single replacement HID bulb ...

    ... Bob (Grateful Diver)
     
  4. GreenDiverDown

    GreenDiverDown Instructor, Scuba

    3,138
    1
    38
    I'm afraid to jump in off a boat!
     
  5. BCSGratefulDiver

    BCSGratefulDiver Mental toss flycoon ScubaBoard Supporter

    # of Dives: 2,500 - 4,999
    Location: On the Fun Side of Trump's Wall
    73,138
    57,121
    113
    When you turn the light on depends on the conditions of the dive. If diving from a boat ... especially if there's current ... I'll turn on the light just before entry. If shore diving during the day, just before descent. If shore diving at night, just before putting on my fins.

    Most HID light manufacturers recommend you do not turn on the light out of the water, since the design assumes the water will be cooling off the light head. A few seconds or a minute won't (IMO) impact the performance of your light. Although you can, technically, turn your light on and off during the dive if you choose, doing so reduces the life expectancy of the bulb ... and HID bulbs are expensive. Once you turn your light on, leave it on for a minimum of three minutes before shutting it off ... allow the bulb to completely heat up. I'm not real technical on these things, but I do know from experience with my first HID light that not leaving the light on long enough can cause intermittent failures that cause the light to flicker and fail ... ultimately resulting in a bulb replacement. Also, once you turn the light off, leave it off for a minute or two before attempting to start it again. Once again, this isn't something I can explain the technical reasons for ... but I do know from experience that if you try to restart the light too soon it often won't come on.

    There's a tremendous price difference between the 10W and 18W lights ... but once you use an 18W you won't want to go back.

    For most divers, the 10W lamp is plenty of light. I got the 18W primarily because as an instructor I want to make sure I can get my students attention with a light signal ... and there's just no ignoring that beam.

    "On the fly" adjustability depends on the light you purchase. Most lights are fixed focus ... you purchase a lamp with anywhere from a 6-degree to a 13-degree beam and that's what you get. The Terkel can be adjusted, but not on the fly ... you focus it prior to the dive, and once you descend you leave it alone. The Halcyon lights can be adjusted during the dive ... as can some models of Dive Rite and OMS lights. I'm not too familiar with other brands.

    Hope that helps ...

    ... Bob (Grateful Diver)
     
    george_austin likes this.
  6. Dryglove

    Dryglove Solo Diver

    2,581
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    I turn on my light right before i descend or on the fly while diving. HID lights can only be turned on for short period of times out of the water. HID lights are designed to be left on for the duration of the dive or until you no longer need your light. Once a HID light is switched off it must be left off for a short period of time before re-igniting the light again.

    Yes the halcyon 10w is adjustable on the fly

    I own a halcyon helios 4.5. The cannister and light head are very compact and produces plenty of light for open water diving. The lighthead of a 18w is definitely larger along with the cannister and once again with a larger price tag. The 18w my buddy used definitely had a larger hot spot during day time diving. For night diving the 18w only seemed a bit brighter than the 10w and both produce more than enough light for night diving. I swear the 18w could cook a fish on the spot. So for me it boiled down to the size of the helios 9 18w vs the helios 4.5 10w and the price difference and if i really had the need for a 18w over the 10w. If you are gonna get into more of the technical side of things with deep diving, cave diving, etc its safe to say the 18w is the norm in that enviroment. As for me i am a single tank rec diving weenie again :D.... at least for now.
     
  7. CALI68

    CALI68 Manta Ray

    # of Dives: I'm a Fish!
    Location: San Jose, CA
    1,236
    2
    0
    Thanks for the info! I appreciate it, you Guys have been a big help.
     
  8. GreenDiverDown

    GreenDiverDown Instructor, Scuba

    3,138
    1
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    Warm water rec rig:

    Single Luxfer SO80

    Halcyon 3.5# Al BP or Halcyon 6# SS BP
    Halcyon 2.5# STA

    Halcyon (old style – no built in STA) 18# Pioneer horseshoe wing (This baby’s tiny)

    EE harness: bent D-rings below clavicles, bungee loop for lpi inflator hose on left D-ring, D-ring on left waist at posterior axillary line for SPG, inner tube loops on chest straps to hold backup lights as needed, knife pocket to left of crotch strap and Scubapro SS buckle to right. Harness adjusted so that I can touch the top of my BP prior to attaching cylinder. Crotch strap with a little slack. Butt D-ring about a hands-width below plate.

    Apeks DS4 DIN 1st stage
    7 Foot primary, 22” backup, 22”lpi, and 24” hp hoses with cave-tied bolt snaps.
    TX50 seconds and shock cord necklace
    UWATEC Master Diver SPG

    (or)

    Seaquest XR2 1st stage (yolk)
    5 Foot primary, 22” backup, 22”lpi, and 24” hp hoses with cave-tied bolt snaps.
    XR2 seconds and shock cord necklace
    UWATEC Master Diver SPG


    Plana Avanti Quattro Fins

    3mm Shortie


    Cold water rec rig:

    Single Luxfer SO80

    Halcyon 6# SS BP
    FredT 6# STA cam bands with SS buckles and Halcyon trim weight pockets-2 on each cam band pushed back against the STA on both sides.

    Halcyon (old style – no built in STA) 27# Pioneer wing

    EE harness: bent D-rings below clavicles, bungee loop for lpi inflator hose on left D-ring, D-ring on left waist at posterior axillary line for SPG, inner tube loops on chest straps to hold backup lights as needed, knife pocket to left of crotch strap and Scubapro SS buckle to right. Harness adjusted so that I can touch the top of my BP prior to attaching cylinder. Crotch strap with a little slack. Butt D-ring about a hands-width below plate.

    Apeks DS4 DIN 1st stage
    7 Foot primary, 22” backup, 22”lpi, and 24” hp hoses with cave-tied bolt snaps.
    Standard length drysuit inflator hose under left arm
    TX50 seconds and shock cord necklace
    UWATEC Master Diver SPG

    Jetfins XL with spring straps. 5thD springs re-mounted on Halcyon blocks with Scubapro buckles and pins.

    USIA SYS7000M Drysuit with Si-tech low profile valves and Exotherm III undergarment rebranded as Oceanic Biodry and Thermo 2.


    Cold water doubles (boat, ocean):

    Luxfer SO80 twins

    Halcyon 300 bar manifold
    Highland Bands with a stout but thin layer of window tint plastic between SS bands and Al cylinders.

    FredT 9# SS BP
    Halcyon 11# v-weight

    Halcyon 45# wing

    EE harness: bent D-rings below clavicles, bungee loop for lpi inflator hose on left D-ring, D-ring on left waist at posterior axillary line for SPG, inner tube loops on chest straps to hold backup lights as needed, knife pocket to left of crotch strap and Scubapro SS buckle to right. Harness adjusted so that I can touch the top of my BP prior to attaching cylinder. Crotch strap with a little slack. Butt D-ring about a hands-width below plate.

    Apeks DS4 DIN 1st stages
    7 Foot primary and 22”lpi hoses off right post, and 22” backup 24” hp hoses off left post with cave-tied bolt snaps (large 1” for SPG).
    Standard length drysuit inflator hose off left post routed under left arm.
    TX50 seconds and shock cord necklace
    UWATEC Master Diver SPG

    Jetfins XL with spring straps. 5thD springs re-mounted on Halcyon blocks with Scubapro buckles and pins.

    USIA SYS7000M Drysuit with Si-tech low profile valves and Exotherm III undergarment rebranded as Oceanic Biodry and Thermo 2.


    Interchangables...gear that is used as needed:

    Suunto Vytec, Stinger, or Oceanic Versa Pro gauge on right wrist with extra long Waterbourne strap. (I’m not too fond of bungees for this application)

    Suunto SK5 or Oceanic Compass on left wrist with extra long Waterbourne strap.

    Tusa Panogeo Mask with Optix stick-ins.
    Sea Dive mask with black skirt and optix stick-ins

    Homemade “Betty Crocker” knife or Akona AK600 knife.
    EMT shears

    Standard weight belt

    Scubapro 3mm or 5mm gloves
    Generic hood with neck flap cut off

    Halcyon 80# closed circuit lift bag and 100 foot safety spool.

    Halcyon Backplate Pak

    Sandroff 18/9 HID canister light with EKPP reflector and explorer version Goodman handle mounted on right waist belt and held in place with SS weight buckle. (Brand spankin' new!)

    Halcyon Scout Backup lights

    Luxfer SO40 70 foot bottle with standard DIR markings and rigging, Apeks DS4 1st stage, Seaquest XR2 second, and Halcyon SPG.


    Hose routing and weight belt:
    Singles:
    My primary hose comes off the right side of the first stage and is routed straight down the right side behind my wing where it rests between the wing and cylinder. I then tuck it under my right waist belt forming a small loop that points toward my feet. (When I start using my new can light, I will just loop it under the can.) It then crosses up my chest and loops behind my neck from my left and into my mouth from the right. The small loop under the waist belt is adjusted so that the remaining hose is just the right length to permit comfortable head turning. Sometimes, when diving in warm water with a shortie, I might use a yolk first stage that has a 5 foot primary. Then instead of tucking it in my waist belt I simply loop it under my right arm. The backup regulator comes off the same side of the first stage as the primary and routes over the right shoulder and is suspended below my chin with a bungee necklace where it can be grasped into my mouth without using my hands. It is just long enough to permit easy head turning to the left. The HP hose routes straight down the left in front of the wing and attaches to the left waist D-ring with an appropriate sized bolt snap. Its length permits easy reading of my SPG either clipped or unclipped. The LPI hose runs from the left side of the first stage and over my left shoulder to the LPI. Bound to the corrugated hose with inner tube, they are both held in place by a loop of bungee at my left chest D-ring. If I’m using a drysuit, then the inflator hose runs under my left arm.

    Doubles:
    My first stages are oriented inward (dry seals towards the center) so that they do not interfere with reaching my valves. The primary and LPI hoses come off the “bottom” of the right post first stage and the backup regulator, drysuit inflator, and HP hoses come off the “bottom” of the left post first stage. The primary routes the same way as it routes on my single tank rigs. The backup regulator hose routes under the LPI and corrugated hoses, running behind and around the right side of my neck to where it is suspended by a shock cord necklace below my chin. The drysuit inflator hose runs under my left arm as does my HP hose, again clipping my SPG to the left waist D-ring with various sized bolt snaps.

    I prefer a standard weight belt and I try to use no more than 8 lbs. on it but I prefer not to use one at all when possible. I wear it under the crotch strap.



    Things used to carry it all:

    Rubbermaid 24 gal. ActionPacker containers
    California Diving Company Dive Box
    Oceanic and Seaquest gear bags


    Next additions or tweaks:

    Cold water doubles (shore, fresh water) Steel E8 130 twins.
    DUI TLS 350.
    Maybe get a heavier BP from FredT to use with my Al doubles so that I can toss the weight belt.
    Maybe get a new Pioneer 35# with integrated STA…to make reaching my valves a little easier.
    Maybe make springs for my Plana Avanti Quattro fins.
    Get a new open circuit lift bag.
    A better way to stow my lift bag.
    Argon setup.


    Things I’ve put off still but need to do:

    Pocket bungee loops.


    Things that I’ve cut from my rigs or never quite liked:

    Halcyon ACB 20 weight pockets.
    Halcyon Gaitors…too hard to put on…anyone with a trick for this?


    Things that I’m still looking for:

    The perfect mask for my over 40 eyes.
     
  9. cool_hardware52

    cool_hardware52 Dive Equipment Manufacturer

    7,582
    1,782
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    HID lamps are in fact arc lamps. Welch Allen's product line is called Sol-Arc.

    When an arc lamp is first turned on there is a high voltage imposed that initiates the arc. After the arc is started the voltage is reduced.

    It is this high voltage "ignitor" voltage that can make locating the ballast remotely problematic.

    If a running HID is turned off, and not allowed to cool sufficiently it may not reignite as the high temperature can interfer with arc initiation.

    It is also important to note that each time a HID lamp is ignited the lamp looses both light output and future life.

    In other words turning a HID on and off, even if one lets it cool, reduces both the brightness and the total life of the bulb.

    Welch Allen includes a duty cycle in it's lamp life specifications, IRRC it's a 1000 hrs based on 1 hour on, 15 minutes off. (10 watt HID) This factors in the effects of repeated ignition.


    Regards,



    Tobin
     
  10. simbrooks

    simbrooks Snr LayZboy Meteorologist ScubaBoard Supporter

    # of Dives: 100 - 199
    Location: Orlando, Fl
    7,352
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    Back to the what do you wear idea:

    BP - Zeagle SS (only for 5mm suit in salt) or DR AL (1mm/3mm in fresh or salt and 5mm in fresh) w/DR STA
    W - Zeagle elastic 34# wing single (will get double one day when i start that)
    Regs - Zeagle DS-V/ZX, 7ft primary and bungee second, recently replaced all the recreational hoses with shorter ones (LP inflator, HP/SPG and back up reg hose) which are kind of the same size as GUE recommend, but cant be sure they are exactly, but they are the shortest i could find to really tighten up my streamlining and feel.
    Weights - depending on wetsuit i will wear a few #'s in tank band pockets (DR) on lower tank band (near tank COG/COB)
    Other things - 4 D's, use stopper for DR MR11/slim can have two pockets on waist webbing that i use once in a while - but cant be bothered to take off if i have nothing to put in them on some dives (not very hog i know), lights off chest D's, inner tube to hold those down and the LP inflator hose too, compass off retractor on left hip D, SPG clipped to left chest D, clip off light head to right chest D, spools on butt ring on crotch strap, z-knife on left waist band by left hip D. Jetfin wannabe fins, springed, used to use quattros (also sprung) - which i keep for salt dives if i want them. Not much other equipment out of the ordinary or carried (except mask) on most dives, will take safety sausage and whistle for salt dives (which i put in right hip pocket). I havent bought loads of other rubbish to take around with me on dives, most stuff covers most dives - except compass and safety stuff i dont take in the springs (maybe compass in the lakes). Computer (Vyper) bungeed on right wrist, wrist slate on left. Use triglides to hold webbing in place as it turns shoulder to waist on backside of the BP - some dont do that, some do.

    Will be getting drysuit, doubles wing for doubles as i buy them - putting my AL tanks out for stages/deco in the future, thinking of getting shears as well, might put on right side or mount on shoulder strap near waist. Going to put in some bungee on pockets to hold arrows and cookies as well.
     

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