the great 109 to 156 (using the new S-wing) and "lever" issues threads (continued)

[Nemrod]

Does this tool correct bent lever or is it used to bend a lever to adjust height. I just overhauled two 109s converting them to balanced configuration using the kit from vdh. I also had several levers and a collection of parts and my dive shop fiend who will sale me parts and allow me to rummage his supplies. It took several different levers to get two that sat where I though they should sit. Maybe I need this tool.

My 109s have the non-curly foot lever with the smaller feet. It could be I have the wrong diaphragms. The ice blue one with metal insert seems to cause issues in that I have to tighten down the orifice excessively, it seems ot have a more shallow dome. I have two other silicone types that have plastic inserts, they actually seem to work better, one set is red, the other is black.

I took them on a dive recently to near 150 feet here at the Kimberling Bridge in Table Rock, they did fine but I guess I was just expecting a bit more from them, they seem a touch stiff. When I get some time maybe fool with them some more.

I store my regs with them disassembled meaning the covers and diaphragms removed and in some cases the orifice backed out. For non balanced types I back the orifice out of the body (such as the MRII, Conshelf etc) and for my 109s I put a tongue depressor over the lever and rubber band it so the lever is pushed down slightly. On all of them I leave the top covers off and diaphragms removed. It only takes a few minutes to assemble them and make them ready. I started doing this long because neoprene parts would take a crush and check along the edges where they are compressed. No longer an issue with silicone but the covers on the 109s are still neoprene and they seem to like to split or check at the perimeter due to compression.

For short term storage of the 109 assembled, I use a tongue depressor, cut to a length that lets me slide it under the metal front cover and then over a bit thus being trapped under the metal plate and depressing slightly the diaphragm cover.

N

 

[Couv]

Nemrod,

I don't know if that tool was originally designed to set new levers or correct levers that have been in use. Of the levers I checked (all used) 3 needed quite a bit of adjustment, 1 just a tweak. I attempted to check a new one, but it's the type with curly feet and would not fit into the tool. I don't know how the levers got out of adjustment-they were removed from regs I purchased on eBay and CL.

If you use the tool, you'll notice there is a bit of "spring" in a lever so it does seem odd that they would get out of adjustment.

 

[Zung]

... It could be I have the wrong diaphragms. The ice blue one with metal insert seems to cause issues in that I have to tighten down the orifice excessively, it seems ot have a more shallow dome. I have two other silicone types that have plastic inserts, they actually seem to work better, one set is red, the other is black...

If this is the ice blue one you mentioned, I think it's for the 1st generation 108, possibly with the non-adjustable orifice. It's definitely too shallow for the 109/156. OTOH, any current diaphragms for the G250 work well.



Any 109/156 could be adjusted to crack under 1": mines average about .8". They're anything but stiff and breathe nearly as well as my G250's.

 

[Golan68]

I suspect Scubapro must have had some problem with that original purge depressor design as they redesigned it in later years. For a while SP added a device built into the purge button on the G and R series but that fell by the wayside also. I suspect the realized such a device was counter to their more recent policy of annual dealer service. In any event, anthing soft that can be inserted between the metal and rubber cover will do the trick. My favorite is a 2" piece of soft tubing that goes completely across the exposed rubber cover. I store all my regs except the D-series (coaxial valve) that way. The unbalanced design benefits the most. The balanced barrel poppet design still gets over 50% of it closing force from the mechanical spring so it helps there also. The coaxial valve on the Air1 and D-series looks like it gets less than 25% of its closing force from the mechanical spring so the benefit is relatively small. Plus, the D-series design does not lent itself to depressing the purge during storage.

If you are into annual service, it probably does not matter at all. But if you are looking to maximize the time between service, it can really help.

To make anti set poppet for the D I simply over bend the pre dive spring. So when it's on pre dive it's actually opened. Before dive I move the button little bit . And in dive position it doesn't interfere. Also that enables controlling ff.

 

[Golan68]

they (SP) also made an object that looked like a flatened spoon (no handle) or "tear dropped" shaped that you put between the metal faceplate and the diaphragm (unfortunalely, that too led to deformation).....

Think its time for someone to come up with a good DIY (or production) solution for that old "key"....

How about moving back the orifice while being stored (long period) and simply adjust before you go diving? This will also relief the spring (that's two birds)
We do have the tools.
Anti set is one of the most important actions to maintain the same performance.

 

[redacted]

To make anti set poppet for the D I simply over bend the pre dive spring. So when it's on pre dive it's actually opened. Before dive I move the button little bit . And in dive position it doesn't interfere. Also that enables controlling ff.

It sounds like you have moved the wireform spring from behind the lever to in front of it. Is That correct?

Edit: OK, I thought about it a bit more. I guess you bent the wireform spring so it end up pushing the lever forward beyond the rest position and opening the valve a bit. I will have to give that a try.

 

[Golan68]

sorry for not answering earlier, but you are right the second option (edited) is correct, just a little bit forward.

 

[rhwestfall]

Now that winter has returned, I'll be back at the work bench, implementing some of the strategies here. Thanks for all the advice. Hopefully I will have success to celebrate.

Anyhow, in regard to the long storage being discussed, why not just take out the adjustment knob all the way?

 

[ZuluWhiskeyFox]

In the title of this thread it says it's (continued). Continued from where? I would like to read it from the start. I have two 109's. That's all I know about them. One of them just came back from servicing and on the report the tech wrote that the 2nd stage was obsolete and was updated to use modern parts. What exactly is he talking about. I guessing he updated it to 156 status? Anyway, to read all there is to read about the 109 sure would be nice.

 

[Fishpie]

If it was a 109 it probably had the new(er) style duro poppet installed rather than a full 156 conversion.