Titan O ring question

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BigRed96

Contributor
Messages
279
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Location
New Richmond, Oh
# of dives
100 - 199
Hi All, In older first stage service kits I have, the crown oring is not separated like in the newer kits. I am having trouble distinguishing between the three lp orings and the crown oring. Furthering the problem is the thicker oring I have I’m assuming is the hp hose oring. Can anyone shed some light on my predicament? I’m diving these regs tomorrow and would prefer that work. If needed I can take pics of what I have.
 
Pictures might help.
You should have installed a small o-ring (-006) and a backup ring into the balance chamber/spring block.
The next size larger should be about a 2mm x 7mm (1.9mm X 7.2mm) seal-that one goes on the volcano orifice.
The l/p plugs take -011
The h/p plugs take -012

Click on the image of the parts kit at VDH for a better understanding.
Store | Vintage Double Hose
 
Here’s a pic of my kit. As you can see there’s four orings that all look the same and seem to measure the same with a mic. The ring that is a 7/16 HP port oring seems to be the only one I can tell a difference in. I rebuilt the reg using it as the crown oring and everything functions as it should. I need to be sure though.
053E011B-6200-4B49-A532-92830A2A6CB7.jpeg
 
Here’s another pic of the “7/16” hp hose oring” on the left next to a 012 from my kit.
A91416A6-17A5-477B-B82C-CCD9E942A979.jpeg
 
I have a rebuild kit with the crown o-ring (key#14, part#820038) packaged individually with the HP seat. Comparing the crown oring with the lp port orings (key#22, part#820011), I can see how difficult it is to tell them apart. I thought the difference would be revealed by squeezing the two to test hardness and using the template, but I would not trust myself to pick out the difference in a blind test. Interestingly, a squeeze test did reveal the difference when using a 90 duro 011 from my parts instead of the crown oring included with the rebuild kit.

Herman mentions using a 90 duro 011 oring for the crown oring here, so that could be a solution vs installing an unknown duro oring from the kit? (oring #12 on the SEA is #14 on the Titan, same part#)
Not sure what the sizes are except for #12,that is a 011. It should not be hard to match them up. The durometers are easy. As a general rule if it has IP or less across it, 70 durometer, it it has high pressure across it, 90. SO:

#6 - 70 durometer , it serves as a spacer and seal for the filter so it has no pressure across it.
#9,12, 18- all 90 durometer since they all have high pressure across them.
 
Edit: It looks like @Kupu hit on an answer as I was typing the useless crap below.

Did you keep the old orifice seal? It looks like your kit is short the 820038 and has an extra l/p o-ring. Perhaps a -010 or -011 can be used in it's place of a 1.9mm X 7.2mm However, best to call the AL experts in on this:
@Luis H
@herman
@Nemrod
@JackD342

AL usually uses a -012 seal for the hp ports. Scubapro uses -011 for the same application.
Likewise AL uses a -011 for the l/p seal and SP uses a -010. I would think either is fine.

One deviation I take from the manual: Rebuild the entire high pressure assembly before installing the diaphragm. Install the pin (A02002) & pin support (101569) and perform the spring test. Slowly pressurize the regulator and listen for leaks. Actuate the pin and support a few times and listen for leaks again. If none found, remove the pin and support and put a few drops of water over the pin hole. See any bubbling? If yes, you'll have to back up and find the issue. In no, blow it dry and finish the build.

This small deviation might uncover a leak somewhere in the hp system before you cover everything up.
 
I have a rebuild kit with the crown o-ring (key#14, part#820038) packaged individually with the HP seat. Comparing the crown oring with the lp port orings (key#22, part#820011), I can see how difficult it is to tell them apart. I thought the difference would be revealed by squeezing the two to test hardness and using the template, but I would not trust myself to pick out the difference in a blind test. Interestingly, a squeeze test did reveal the difference when using a 90 duro 011 from my parts instead of the crown oring included with the rebuild kit.

Herman mentions using a 90 duro 011 oring for the crown oring here, so that could be a solution vs installing an unknown duro oring from the kit? (oring #12 on the SEA is #14 on the Titan, same part#)

I compared the oring they call a 7/16 hp hose oring to a number 11 I have on hand and they are they same size. That makes me much more confident in using it for the crown. Thanks for the info!
 
Edit: It looks like @Kupu hit on an answer as I was typing the useless crap below.

Did you keep the old orifice seal? It looks like your kit is short the 820038 and has an extra l/p o-ring. Perhaps a -010 or -011 can be used in it's place of a 1.9mm X 7.2mm However, best to call the AL experts in on this:
@Luis H
@herman
@Nemrod
@JackD342

AL usually uses a -012 seal for the hp ports. Scubapro uses -011 for the same application.
Likewise AL uses a -011 for the l/p seal and SP uses a -010. I would think either is fine.

One deviation I take from the manual: Rebuild the entire high pressure assembly before installing the diaphragm. Install the pin (A02002) & pin support (101569) and perform the spring test. Slowly pressurize the regulator and listen for leaks. Actuate the pin and support a few times and listen for leaks again. If none found, remove the pin and support and put a few drops of water over the pin hole. See any bubbling? If yes, you'll have to back up and find the issue. In no, blow it dry and finish the build.

This small deviation might uncover a leak somewhere in the hp system before you cover everything up.
Unfortunately I have all the old orings I. A pile with orings from numerous other regs I built so I can compare them. Lesson learned on keeping them on standby for comparison.

As far as the kits being short I have have 4 or 5 kits that are the exact same way. I think I need to start getting the kits that have them separated for now on. I just need to find a place to source them. My LDS won’t sell to me and I understand why, but it still sucks that these kits are such a pain to source.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/teric/

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