Please register or login

Welcome to ScubaBoard, the world's largest scuba diving community. Registration is not required to read the forums, but we encourage you to join. Joining has its benefits and enables you to participate in the discussions.

Benefits of registering include

  • Ability to post and comment on topics and discussions.
  • A Free photo gallery to share your dive photos with the world.
  • You can make this box go away

Joining is quick and easy. Log in or Register now!

thumbsplitter

Contributor
Messages
88
Reaction score
33
Location
Philadelphia
# of dives
200 - 499
Itinerary Summary: We spent 5 days in Cozumel diving (14 dives), and then took the ferry and a rental car to Tulum where we spent an additional 5 days. From Tulum we did an additional 2 cenote dives, as well a visiting the above ground sites of Tulum, Coba’, Punta Laguna, and the Sian Ka’an bioreserve.

Cozumel hotel and diving: We stayed at the Blue Angel Resort but did our diving with Blue XTSea. The Blue Angel was a perfect level of comfort, while still being a hotel that mostly caters to divers. One of our favorite things about staying at Blue Angel was the restaurant, which meant that we didn’t have to seek out a restaurant for lunch or dinner on four-dive days. It took about 15 minutes to walk into town from the hotel, but most of the time we just took a taxi, which was cheap at around 70 pesos ($4) for 4 people. The staff at the Blue Angel Hotel were great, and extremely helpful.
I know Blue XTSea has been review quite a lot in this forum, so I will only briefly reinforce the positive comments. The dive boat picked us up every morning from the Blue Angel dock. Pedro (DM) and Nevo (Captain) were great fun to dive with and really took our safety very seriously. I would also seriously recommend doing night dives as the two night dives we did were some of the best I have ever had. On one dive alone, we saw 6 octopuses and as many eels (sharp-tailed and spotted morays).

Tulum and Hotel: After 5 days of diving on Cozumel, we took the ferry across to Playa del Carmen, rented a car, and drove down to Tulum (about a 1 hr drive). We stayed at Posada Luna del Sur (PLdS). PLdS is along the main road in Tulum and is not as fancy as the resorts that are found along the beach. It was clean and quiet, and a good value, but you should understand that it is not a “resort” hotel (for example there is no pool). They also do not allow young children; a plus in our book, but a problem for families. If you do stay at PLdS, I highly recommend the nearby restaurant Burrito Amor for breakfast, lunch, and dinner.

Cenotes: While in Tulum we did a two-tank day trip with Natalie Gibb at Under the Jungle (formally Diablo Divers). I will write a separate review for Nat and her shop, but my short summary is that she one of the most fantastic dive guides I have ever dived with! To be clear, this may not be true for everyone. Nat is an accomplished cave diver and is not into divers who do not take cenote diving seriously. But if you have good buoyancy, an interest in the natural science of the cenotes, and a desire to try a completely different type of diving, I highly recommend her. We did cavern dives (less technically demanding than true cave dives) in both Ponderosa (AKA: Jardin del Eden) and Dream Gate. The former has some beautiful light effects as you transition from the cavern to the cenotes, and a nice halocline. The later had an incredible number of stalactites, stalagmites, and columns, and has to be the closest thing to true cave diving you can get, while still staying within the cavern zone. If you dive with Nat, make sure to leave the whole day open. Although it was only two dives, the extensive dive briefing, long/shallow dives, and a lunch break for excellent tacos (included), ate up almost all of our day. If you decide to dive cenotes with someone other than Under the Jungle, make sure to do your research first; I heard some scary stories about less qualified ops.

Other attractions: From Tulum, we also did several non-diving activities. The Mayan ruins at Coba’ were quite impressive, and a little less touristy than the ones at Tulum. We also went on a birding trip in the Sian Ka’an bioreserve with Miguel Amar from Mexico Kan Tours. Miguel was a little pricy compared to some other guides, but he is a wealth of knowledge for people interested in birding. A bonus of this trip is that part of it takes you through the Ruins of Muyil. Not as impressive as Tulum or Coba’, but there was almost no one else there while we were birding.

I hope this report helps those of you who are planning an upcoming trip. Feel free to post questions.

--Thumbsplitter
 
thank you for taking the time to post your report. Sounds like a great memory making trip! Continued safe bubbles to you!
 
Thanks, going in Nov also doing the BA/BXTS combo which we've done several times and love it.

Question on the PDC side, though, looking for something a little different and want to see the ruins, but just want to spend a day (and not a super long incredibly tiring day....). Would likely rent a car on the PDC side, is Tulum and Coba a reasonable choice for one days' visit?
 
Thanks, going in Nov also doing the BA/BXTS combo which we've done several times and love it.

Question on the PDC side, though, looking for something a little different and want to see the ruins, but just want to spend a day (and not a super long incredibly tiring day....). Would likely rent a car on the PDC side, is Tulum and Coba a reasonable choice for one days' visit?

Hi Chris,
I think Tulum AND Coba would be too much for one day trip. I liked Coba a little more than the Tulum ruins, but Tulum would be easier to do as a day trip from Cozumel.
 
What did you think of the spiel the tour guides give at Tulum? I wrote a book to kind of counter the myths and fairytales they present as fact. Its called "The True History of Tulum" and is available on Amazon Books as an eBook and paperback.

One of the myths I took particular offense to is the persistent statement that the Castillo was a Mayan lighthouse. What they are trying to say by "lighthouse," but have the term wrong, is "range lights." The old theory was that the two openings in the wall of the Castillo facing the sea could be used as two horizontal range lights at night for Maya canoes entering the beach by the Castillo.

I am familiar with all this because in 1985, I, along with archaeologists from the Institute of Nautical Archaeology, the Instituto Nacional de Antropologia e Historia (INAH), and Texas A&M's department of oceanography, were funded by National Geographic to perform field tests in Tulum to see if there was any possibility that this persistent fable could be true. As it turned out, it was not true, and we published our findings to show why. Nevertheless, Discovery Channel filmed a "re-enactment" of our project and changed the outcome to support the myth, I suppose because it made better TV.

You can read more about the experiment, where I used a dugout canoe we borrowed from a restaurant in Cozumel that they found washed up on the beach (a frequent occurrence 30 years ago) to paddle to the beach at night in Tulum, as well as many other true stories about Tulum in my book.
 
What did you think of the spiel the tour guides give at Tulum? I wrote a book to kind of counter the myths and fairytales they present as fact. Its called "The True History of Tulum" and is available on Amazon Books as an eBook and paperback.

One of the myths I took particular offense to is the persistent statement that the Castillo was a Mayan lighthouse. What they are trying to say by "lighthouse," but have the term wrong, is "range lights." The old theory was that the two openings in the wall of the Castillo facing the sea could be used as two horizontal range lights at night for Maya canoes entering the beach by the Castillo.

I am familiar with all this because in 1985, I, along with archaeologists from the Institute of Nautical Archaeology, the Instituto Nacional de Antropologia e Historia (INAH), and Texas A&M's department of oceanography, were funded by National Geographic to perform field tests in Tulum to see if there was any possibility that this persistent fable could be true. As it turned out, it was not true, and we published our findings to show why. Nevertheless, Discovery Channel filmed a "re-enactment" of our project and changed the outcome to support the myth, I suppose because it made better TV.

You can read more about the experiment, where I used a dugout canoe we borrowed from a restaurant in Cozumel that they found washed up on the beach (a frequent occurrence 30 years ago) to paddle to the beach at night in Tulum, as well as many other true stories about Tulum in my book.

To be honest with you, Tulum was the last of four Mayan ruins we visited, and we didn't bother with the guided tour. We just walked around and read the signage. I don't recall hearing anyone say one of the buildings was a lighthouse, but I wouldn't be surprised if that was something the guides said. When we were in Coba, our guide shared a lot of "facts" with us. For example, he said that the Temples were rebuilt every 52 years. Our birding guide--who was very knowledgeable--later told us that many of these "facts" were simply theories, some with little support. In my experience, this is a problem with guides everywhere, probably because it makes them sound more authoritative than stating that "no one really knows..." The Mayan tours are great, but a little healthy skepticism is probably a good idea.
 
Jeez, I didn't know there was a The True History of Tulum. Now I have to order that....

We did a guided tour at Tulum and CLEARLY the guide gave us alot of fascinating but clearly unproven ideas. He did a wonderful job in showing how Christ appeared to the Mayans there at Tulum. Cool stories.
 
There are two aspects to the "Christ appearing to the Maya" at Tulum. The first is a neat story about a demented "messiah" who traveled to Tulum from Merida with and organ-grinder sidekick in the 1800s and convinced the Maya there he was the one to follow. The second aspect is the Mormon belief that Tulum was one of the places that Jesus Christ appeared after his crucifixion and the reliefs of the "Diving" or "Descending" god on the buildings facades are images that the Maya made depicting his appearance. Both of these beliefs and events (or 1 event and 1 belief) are covered thoroughly in my book, "The True History of Tulum," that is available on Amazon Books.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/perdix-ai/

Back
Top Bottom