Trip report: Curacao Dec 5-12

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mbs

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After about 8 years and 8 Bonaire trips in between we returned to Curacao last week. This was our 2nd time there. The first time there we stayed at Sunset Waters which no longer exists. This time we decided to give All West a go. This is the first time we have not stayed in a resort. I really liked doing breakfast and most lunches back in the apt. I thought I would miss a place for cocktails in the evening, but we went out for dinner and were pretty much shot by the time we came home! So I would definitely do an apartment/condo thing again.

A few things about All West. Before going I was concerned about the stairs down to the water. There are a ton of them and my concern was warranted. Because of those and the stairs at Go West I believe we ended up doing 3 rather than 4 dives per day. Although the gear room was locked up we didn't leave anything of value down there overnight. I just did not feel that comfortable with it. Rinse tanks, benches and the shower were excellent. Lest I scare anyone off, that shore dive is amazing!!! Figure out how to do it! Out front the fishing boats are moored and a bit to the right is the pier that they use. When they come in they clean their catch and toss the remains into the water. This guarantees turtles! Snorkelers were always there watching. We chose to dive it cuz snorkeling is just too much work :wink: Here is a shot of the feeding frenzy:

turtles-frenzy-DSC01733-vga.jpg

It was easy to forget about the wall with the turtles there, but being just south of Alice in Wonderland it is a top notch site! Which is a good lead in to Go West and the rest of the diving.

We used Go West for our dive op. We did 6 2 tank boat dives and got the unlimited nitrox package for our shore diving. That week was very quiet so never more than 10 aboard and several days just 5 of us! Dan was our DM most of the week and he was great! Very low key. Led the dive, but let us do our own thing. David from Sol Food dove with us for several days and we gladly pointed out lionfish to him which he expertly captured. He treated us to lionfish ceviche during one si which was outstanding! The sites out on that end of the island are just outstanding. Especially those out towards the very end, like Watamula and Elvins plane wreck. And of course the Go West pier is the entry point to Alice in Wonderland. An amazing dive site!!! We shore dove there several times not only because it saved us from schlepping our gear around, but because it is such a great dive. Here is a favorite from our last dive there:

octo-DSC01831-vga.jpg

And one more favorite from our last boat dive at Jeremi. Never know what you will find under the boat at the end of the dive :wink:

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So we did shore dives at Go West, All West and Playa Lagun. Lagun which is a beautiful dive is a seriously long swim out to the drop off - about 16 mins! So unless you like to surface swim (we don't!) your time on the wall will be short! I found navigating to be no problem. Between the road signs, the map I bought, google maps (offline!) and one curacao app I downloaded it was fine. I believe it was Anne Marie from GW that said it best - head down the main road and just about every right turn will take you down to a dive site :wink:

A little bit about food. Our driver asked us and stopped at a small mini market on the way to All West. It was just past the California market for those of you that know the area. We were able to pick up basic supplies there, but I was not happy with the look of the meats/produce. We did get some tangerines and apples. Prices were good. I'm told that California would have been better. We never did make the trip down to the Centrum market which is supposed to have a great selection of stuff. We did go to another mini market - Centro in Barber a couple of times.
We ate the first 2 nights at Sol Food which we enjoyed very much. Sunshine is a great host! Its a beautiful spot with good fresh food. Another night we walked over to a local place - Jaanchies, but he was closed - I suspect no customers. So we headed down to Ranch El Sobrino. There was also no one there, but they were open. The Mahi Mahi was well prepared and the rice and sides was just what we were looking for. Then we discovered Trio Penotti. We ate there the next 3 nights and were very happy with both the quality and price of the food and drink. Our last night we went back to Sol Food and got to eat some of the lionfish that we had help spot for David during the week. It was just excellent! There are a lot of them in the water so if we could help out by eating a couple, all the better! We spent a long evening there with 3 other divers as well as a few of our DMs

All in all a great week. JetBlue direct from JFK was reasonably priced and comfortable. We loved that side of the island and stumbled onto a quiet week. The dive op was outstanding. Raphael our dm for the last dive took us on a great tour of the Blue Cave by Mushroom Forest. It was just the 5 of us and for the 2nd dive he just tossed us in and said see you in 1 hour. The 3 other guys that we met on the boat were a pleasure to dive with. Competent, go-slow, no drama divers. Andreas who works at both Go West and All West was a pleasure and great source of information. We will be back, much sooner than 8 years! Next time I have to figure out how to get in a 4th dive of the day!
 
Thanks for the report. All west apt and cur on our list, maybe 2017. What's the deal with the stairs at all west? How many times did you dive at all west?
 
You've been to both Bonaire & Curacao, which have similarities & differences & are fairly close together. From your perspective, how do you think they stack up against each other as dive destinations? People sometimes have to choose...

So, fishermen habitually discard fish 'scraps' into an area, and it draws...sea turtles. Not sharks. At many places I'd think sharks would be drawn in, yet Bonaire seems curiously 'sharkless,' for the most part, and now you mention this situation in Curacao and didn't mention sharks their, either. Yet in some places people worry they'll be accosted by reef sharks while hunting lion fish. Wonder what's up with that?

Richard.
 
Thanks for posting such an excellent trip report! You mentioned so many wonderful places and images on the island that I am so sad that I will not be able to return this winter(next winter-you bet!). You managed to get some great shots of the marine life. Drrich2 beat me to it. I was also wondering how you felt about Curacao vs Bonaire:stirpot:
 
You guys and this curacao vs bonaire obsession :wink: First let me address the stairs at All West. I took one shot down from our balcony. It is a really bad perspective, but maybe gives an idea. So we were on the upper floor. Below us is the ground floor. The apt directly below ours has a deck that is shared with the exit from the gear locker down to the stairs.
allweststairs.jpg

For that reason I recommend the upper floor for more privacy! So you walk out from the gear room and down one short set of stairs to the landing with the grill and a nice shower. Then you can see the start of the stairs heading down, and down and down :wink: Sorry, I should have taken a shot from the top down or bottom up. I believe we did it 3 times. Guys that we met on the boat not staying at All West did the site from the fishermen's pier. So you could do that as well. Load up your truck and drive around to Playa Grandi and walk in from the dock. Might try that next time.

No sharks on the calm side just like on Bonaire. I would guess there are some on the wild side, who knows... So, now that we are talking comparisons... There are some clear differences. Curacao has beautiful sandy beaches that make entries very simple. But in some cases you have stairs to get to them. Bonaire, especially the south the entries are flat, but the ironshore can make it challenging to enter. Marine life as you would expect is quite similar. Curacao is quite hilly and has some really striking lush scenery. They both have great restaurants and good selection of resorts and apt/condos. So whats left to compare? Cheaper to get to Curacao. Curacao has a big city if you are into that. Bonaire has other excellent water sport options. So last but not least are the dive sites themselves. I think this can be quite subjective. My favorite site on Bonaire is currently Vista Blue. That said I have not done a lot of the far north sites. Its lush with coral and has turtles! Tough to pick for me on Curacao, maybe Watamula or Elvins or for sure Alice in wonderland. I am already booked for Bonaire next May. But I will for sure return to Curacao, if not later next year for sure in 2017. So if any of my ramblings helped you make a decision good for you :wink: My recommendation would be to go for 2 weeks and spend 1 on each :) Better yet, 2 weeks on each!
 
I'm not sure I understand the big deal about the stairs at all west. Get into your truck and drive around to the fisherman's dock. Park there. It's like a 2 minute drive. We did it a few times when my knee wasn't up to the stairs.

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I'm not sure I understand the big deal about the stairs at all west. Get into your truck and drive around to the fisherman's dock. Park there. It's like a 2 minute drive. We did it a few times when my knee wasn't up to the stairs.

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Well yea, I did mention that as an option in my last post. But that just makes it another shore dive as opposed to the house reef... No biggie really, but it is an extra effort over just tossing on your gear and gear walking into the water. I'll do it gladly either way to get back and visit this little guy and his buddies :wink: turtles-fenzy-vga-DSC01731.jpg
 

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