Trip Report: Dewi Nusantara Flores-Komodo May 2012

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kneptoon

Contributor
Messages
259
Reaction score
33
Location
Glendale, CA USA
# of dives
500 - 999
Ship details:
My wife and I flew from Bali into Maumere where we met our fellow divers and the cruise representatives. After collecting all the baggage we were shuttled to the harbor to board Dewi Nusantara. This is a very impressive and imposing boat when you first see her in the water. She measures 57 meters which is around 25 meters longer than the pilsini liveaboards I have sailed in the past. It is a big boat. The cabins are big, the bathrooms are big and the dive deck is enormous. Is bigger better? Well, yes in this case definitely. I had to look out the porthole some mornings to even tell if we were moving or not. The engines are very quiet. The loudest noise was gentle creaking of the wood when the swells were at their heaviest. This is also the best maintained liveaboard I have ever been aboard. The showers are scalding hot, the beds comfortable, AC works great, the rooms well lit, the ladders and passages easily maneuvered. I saw one bug, and only one, on day 10. My wife summed it up. "Indonesia has spoiled us for diving anywhere else and this boat has spoiled us for any other liveaboard." This same clean, crisp professionalism is personified by the crew. Wendy the cruise director really runs the operation like clockwork. This is evidenced in the daily dive planning and the clear communication on what those plans are for the following day. Do they vary? Of course, and you are free to opt out of plans. Each dive plan is mapped out and throughly explained, including contingencies for current conditions. You are not free to opt out of the safety protocols which are established early on and followed every time you don equipment and descend the ladder to the two dive tenders. In the tenders, comfortably accommodating 12 divers, your gear awaits you. Getting from ship ladder to tender is safe and easy, because you follow the safety protocol. There is a short ride, 10 minutes max. to the dive site. The dives were usually max. of 60 minutes, though some shallow critter dives were extended. The program was the standard 2 morning dives, an afternoon dive and a dusk/night dive. This schedule was held except for the long passage from Alor to Komodo and the last 2 dives of the day were not possible. In the water there were 2 dive guides to each boat, or 4 divers per guide. You can dive guided or guide your own dive. There is a minimum of tank banging clanking and other nuisance noises. You can follow a guide, and these guys were fantastic finding critters, or cruise on your own. My wife is a photographer I am not. Wendy guided all of our dives (I know how does she do it?) Upon surfacing, the tender that dropped you off picks you up. Average wait was under two minutes. You hand all of your gear up to the deck hand and climb a decent ladder into the boat and then back to the Dewi Nusantara for a hot shower on deck and a quick back/massage before what ever meal is scheduled next. The food was very good. I particularly enjoyed the lunchtime Indonesian buffet. Meals are usually eaten at two large teak tables on the dive deck, weather permitting. If it was too windy or wet, we ate in the salon. The salon accommodated us all easily at dining tables at one end, built in sofas flank the wall at the opposite end where the photographers usually did their post dive editing. There are two sun decks, one always open to sun with hammocks the other is shaded. We were fortunate having mostly very experienced divers aboard. Nine came from the Rochester Aquatic Center. We all played together very well and there were some very good photographers on board. We also had the bonus of Gary Bevan's company as "Consultant" on this cruise. Wendy, together with Yan the ace dive guide, and the great comic wit of Gary, an old hand of Alor and Komodo, provided us a wonderfully unforgettable cruise. We disembarked on day 11 in Luban Bajo. Our baggage was all weighed, the excess pounds paid for and taken to the airport ahead of us. Like everything on this cruise it was so easy and perfectly orchestrated.
 
This is part 2 of the above trip report.
Itinerary and diving:
The first day of our trip involved orientation with the Dewi Nusantara and getting squared away for diving the following morning. We moved east from the harbor of Maumere on East Flores to Bacatan Headland on Lembata Island. We did our two morning dives off Bucatan Head. Both of these were shallow sloping reefs that disappeared over a ledge to a very deep channel. The soft coral was out in a small current. The reef structure looked good not great. We spotted a few turtles and a medium size black tip also an octopus. On the macro side: pygmy sea horses, juvenile file fish, rock movers and quite a few cuttle fish. Diving here is to 80' max. temp is 83 degrees. For our third dive we motor up to Komba Island. This is an active volcanic island the rises straight out of the sea. There is an eruption approximately every 15 minutes. It didn't seem to bother the tuna swimming above the reef. Here another sloping reef in ok shape and dropping off to the abyss. That night from our deck we watched Komba rumble and explode sending lava high into the air and cascading into the ocean 1500' below. Really a spectacular experience. Quite a floor show from our dining tables on the dive deck.
The first stage of our trip was focused on the area around Alor. The next morning found us in Kalabahi Sound. We did five dives at different sites around the sound. The premier site in this area was a shallow water (70' max) dive just 100 yards off the local village mosque. Here we found many rhinopias (2 types), cuttle fish, ornate ghost pipe fish, pipe fish, frog fish, eels. thorny seahorses, octopi, nudibranchs, and a giant green frogfish. It was macro heaven for the photographers particularly with the rhinopias.
We headed out of the sound the next morning and dove around Pura Island. This was really a stellar dive site. The bottom is carpeted with anemones of every type. The colors, an array of spectacular neon. A very good dive. The water is very clear and cooler(73 degrees I am glad to be in a 5/4 mm for this one) and the current is ripping. And ripping along in the opposite direction a squadron of seven eagle rays. After this dive we move south through the Alor Straits and finish the day's diving in Beangabang Bay. This is another macro hot spot and critter haven. We see an assortment of pipe fish and a lot of blue ribbon eels. We are diving right in front of the village and very close to shore. The reef even this close to the village is in really great shape. There aren't any fish over a foot in length but the coral looks great. The next day we continue our slow loop north and dive Boling Strait. Here we hit a few more critter sites The highlight site for the day is Sizzler. Many rhinopias are spotted, a giant black leaf frog fish, cuttle fish, crocodile fish, and more varieties of pipe fish, the robust and leafy as well as ornate,more happy macro photographers. The next day we do another critter dive in this same area on the West side of Lembata Island. We head northwest after the first morning dive. The next dive is Adonara Sagu, the East side of Adonara Island. This is a fantastic reef system with mammoth table corals and a lot of critters. Our afternoon dive that day is on the Serbete Reef system. This is the healthiest reef so far and abundant with more macro life and also some larger fish, including four hammerheads. On our way the next day to Komodo we start the day with two dives off the island of Palau Raja. Another very healthy beautiful reef surrounds this island. We do the two morning dives and head to Komodo. This the only dive day that the two afternoon dives were missed.

There are marked contrasts between the first part of the trip around Alor and the Komodo Park half of the trip. I love Komodo diving. The reefs are healthy and abundant. It is the first time that you finally see schooling fish and an abundance of reef fish above 12" in length. We start our Komodo diving at Shotgun off Gili Lawah Laut. This dive has very strong current and it is ripping the further you venture out from the shore. It is also the epitome of Komodo diving, a pristine reef system with schools of barracudas, jack, sweetlips, and fusiliers, etc. There are plenty of turtles, octopus, several white tips, a nurse shark and really spectacular coral. The next dive was at Castle Rock, another top spot for Komodo. This bommie is fish central: several more sharks, plenty of turtles and massive schools of fish. I did the afternoon dive at Wainilu while the rest of the group walked around Rinca in the rain visiting the dragons. Wainilu was the only dive site that I dove in Komodo that had any evidence of bombing. It was totally devastated and done some years ago. Nothing has grown back, there is no live coral at Wainilu. What it does have are mandarin fish and the picturesque dragonette, and a lot more unusual macro critters, such as the peacock razor fish. The next morning we dove the South end of the park. Notably Cannibal Rock, which was up to its stellar reputation. Here we found a diver friendly octopus out on a rock, plenty of turtles and a big nurse shark. We dove a few other sites to finish the day in Torpedo Alley. The next day's first dive was Manta Alley and it really lived up to the name. Non stop mantas, black tips, even more turtles and great schools of fish. Two more dives that day around Padar also very good diving. We ended the day with another look at the Mandarins back at Wainilu. We had two morning dives our last day. Even though it was raining the diving was great at GLD passage and Light House Reef.

This was really a great trip on a superlative boat with an unparalleled crew. I look forward to another trip in the future. Not being a photographer I get a bit impatient with too much focus on macro. For that reason Komodo Park is for me, the ultimate dive destination. In retrospect I think I would have preferred doing the entire trip in that area. The bombing site at Wainilu was very concerning and really reinforced what a fabulous ecosystem we experience within the boundary of the park. I hope that it remains abundant. It would be a pity if it became just a macro destination.
 
Thanks for the great report. I suggest you also post in The Indonesia forum.
I was surprised to read that you managed to do Alor & Komodo (North & South ) in 1 trip. This sounds like a great journey. Was this a 10 day trip?
 
Great report.. Counting down the days to my trip to Komodo. You sound like my husband (since i am the photographer) so I think he will love Komodo!! What currency did you have to use to pay excess baggage fees?
 
The excess baggage for Indonesian domestic was an impossible 15 kilos. This wasn't as bad as I had anticipated. Fortunately, they don't weigh carry on. Depending on the airline, this is one or two dollars for each kilo above 15. As we had three days in Bali before and after, I checked some unneeded stuff in a bag at the hotel until we returned. You really don't need much beyond dive gear and bathing suits on these boats. My wife does take a giant bottle of hair conditioner, I compensate by carrying no books but an e-reader.

---------- Post added ----------

Thanks for the great report. I suggest you also post in The Indonesia forum.
I was surprised to read that you managed to do Alor & Komodo (North & South ) in 1 trip. This sounds like a great journey. Was this a 10 day trip?
This was an 11 day trip. I don't understand why some boats only do the North or the South in Komodo. It is not a huge distance between the two.

---------- Post added ----------

Great report.. Counting down the days to my trip to Komodo. You sound like my husband (since i am the photographer) so I think he will love Komodo!! What currency did you have to use to pay excess baggage fees?

Sorry I didn't answer specifically. We paid in rupiahs. About 400,000.
 
What an excellent report! It makes me wish we were leaving tomorrow for our upcoming Dewi Nusantara trip! I feel the same way you do about the Dewi N. That is why this will be our 3rd trip onboard. What a bonus to have Garry onboard! He is quite a character and an amazing diver! I can not wait to dive with my all time favorite "Wendy!" She still seems to be thrilled with diving! I am glad to hear that West Lembata is part of their Alor iten. I did my all time favorite dive there while onboard the AA2. Thanks for sharing in such awesome detail your experience!
 
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