Using manual exposure

Please register or login

Welcome to ScubaBoard, the world's largest scuba diving community. Registration is not required to read the forums, but we encourage you to join. Joining has its benefits and enables you to participate in the discussions.

Benefits of registering include

  • Ability to post and comment on topics and discussions.
  • A Free photo gallery to share your dive photos with the world.
  • You can make this box go away

Joining is quick and easy. Log in or Register now!

tpwilcox

Registered
Messages
5
Reaction score
0
Location
Austin TX
# of dives
5000 - ∞
I am doing some testing before my next trip. I want to use manual exposure along with my strobes. Unfortunately, when I set the camera to M (manual), I get black. The sensor appears to shut down. These tests were done with the camera set to JPEG+RAW, no flash or flash (synchronized), and any combo of f-stop and shutter I tried. I tried AF and macro focus.

If I set the camera to A (aperture priority) or S (shutter priority) it works fine both with and without flash.

The camera is in the housing, not that it matters.

Any help is greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

Tom
 
Is it just the preview that goes black, or actual photos? Make sure the firmware is up to date. When I first got it, the preview would go black upon half push not taking into account the strobe lighting.
 
What I am going to suggest may seem fairly obvious, so if you have already tried it, then please take my suggestions with a grain of salt. Also, keep in mind that my suggestions will be pretty generic since I have no idea what gear you are using.

First, set up your gear as you would have it when you dive. (In the housing with the strobes hooked up.) It really doesn't matter if you have the lens port on or not.

Step 1. Establish a "Control Image": Set the camera to Program mode. Set the ISO to what you would typically use and set the metering to center weighted. (Do not change the ISO or the Metering throughout the test.) Point the camera at something (I use a little toy dinosaur, for my tests but anything will work as long as you use the same thing for each test.) Take a picture.
Did the strobes fire?
What were your exposure data (f Stop, Shutter Speed & ISO)? Write these down.
How was your exposure? (Over exposed? Under Exposed? or About right?) If your camera has the ability to show a histogram, that is better than simply looking at the screen because you could have the brightness on the screen turned up or down.

Step 2. Try Shutter Priority: Set the camera to Shutter Priority and set the Shutter Speed and ISO to the same values as the result from the image you took when it was in Program Mode. Take as close as you can to the same image as you did for the control. Take a picture.
Did the strobes fire?
What was your f Stop? Write it down.
Were these settings the same as they were in Program mode or were they different?
How was your exposure? (Over exposed? Under Exposed? or About right?) If your camera has the ability to show a histogram, that is better than simply looking at the screen because you could have the brightness on the screen turned up or down.
How did this exposure compare to the one from Program Mode? (Better, worse, or about the same)

Step 3. Try Aperture Priority: Set the camera to Aperture Priority and set the f Stop and ISO to the same value as the result from the image you took when it was in Program Mode. Take as close as you can to the same image as you did for the control. Take a picture.
Did the strobes fire?
What was your Shutter Spd? Write it down.
Were these settings the same as they were in Program mode or were they different?
How was your exposure? (Over exposed? Under Exposed? or About right?) If your camera has the ability to show a histogram, that is better than simply looking at the screen because you could have the brightness on the screen turned up or down.
How did this exposure compare to the one from Program Mode? (Better, worse or about the same)

Step 4. Compare the three images: Take a look at the three images that you have shot. They should all be very similarly exposed, but there might be some subtle differences. Select the one that you feel gave you the best exposure and note the settings for this image.

Step 5. Shoot the image in Manual Mode: Set the camera to manual mode and set the Shutter Speed, Aperture and ISO to the same settings for the previous image that gave you the best results from the previous test shots. Take the picture. If your camera is functioning properly, the image that you capture on this shot should give the same results as the shot which you used as the basis for it. If you still get a black screen, then there may be a larger problem than what this test will show.

The key to this test is to set a control image (the Program Mode image) and to then leave everything the same (ISO, Metering etc) and only change one variable at a time.

I hope this helps to troubleshoot your problem.

_DSC0638.jpg
 
Thank you both for your replies. Aperture priority and Shutter priority work fine. And, I have recently discovered, if the exposure is set for correct ambient light exposure manual works fine.

Its is when trying to use manual + strobes to create a particular light effect (low light, but I still want a high f-stop and shutter speed) where it appears the camera's software says no, and simply won't allow the shot. Not a huge deal. This is not a high priced rig, so I expect limitations.

Thank you again for the help.

Cheers,

Tom
 
Thank you both for your replies. Aperture priority and Shutter priority work fine. And, I have recently discovered, if the exposure is set for correct ambient light exposure manual works fine.

Its is when trying to use manual + strobes to create a particular light effect (low light, but I still want a high f-stop and shutter speed) where it appears the camera's software says no, and simply won't allow the shot. Not a huge deal. This is not a high priced rig, so I expect limitations.

Thank you again for the help.

Cheers,

Tom


And you've installed the latest firmware, correct? Also, if you're referring to the "+ strobes" as your white balance, try just auto white balance.
 
Thank you both for your replies. Aperture priority and Shutter priority work fine. And, I have recently discovered, if the exposure is set for correct ambient light exposure manual works fine.

Its is when trying to use manual + strobes to create a particular light effect (low light, but I still want a high f-stop and shutter speed) where it appears the camera's software says no, and simply won't allow the shot. Not a huge deal. This is not a high priced rig, so I expect limitations.

Thank you again for the help.

Cheers,

Tom
Check your shutter speed. Make sure that it is slower than the max shutter speed for the flash sync. Maybe, if you have it set too fast, then it won't automatically set the shutter to the sync spd. Try a shutter spd of 1/60 second (just to rule that out as a possibility).
 
In case anyone is interested, here is some very helpful information I received from SeaLife tech support:

DC2000 camera LCD display goes dark in Manual (M) mode when pushing shutter halfway

With firmware version V1.00 and V1.01, when the camera is set to Manual (M) mode and pushing the shutter halfway, the LCD will display the live view based on ambient lighting and the exposure values set. For example, setting exposure to F8 and 1/200 sec in low light environment, the LCD will be dark showing an underexposed live view. If you set exposure to F1.8 and 1/30 sec in the same low light condition, the live view will most likely be okay. The actual image captured when using external strobes will be much different because the strobes provide the light not seen during live view. SeaLife has released a beta firmware version V1.03, which will display an auto-exposed live view when pushing shutter halfway . In other words, the live view will be based on auto exposure and not manual exposure values. The captured image will still be based on the manual exposure values.

You can download the beta firmware here - Firmware | Sealife Cameras

SeaLife strobe not firing with DC2000 camera

The most likely cause is that the strobe(s) is not synchronized to the DC2000 camera. With firmware version V1.00 and V1.01, the camera's internal flash does not use pre-flash when set to Manual or UW Ext Flash modes. However, the camera will use a pre-flash when set to Aperture Priority, Shutter Speed Priority and Program modes. You need to resync the external strobes when switching between modes that use pre-flash and modes that don't. That should not be an issue because normally you would not switch modes like that underwater. To sync the strobes to the camera, turn off the strobe → Push and hold the TEST button on the external strobe → power on the strobe (blue light will be blinking) → take picture with camera. The blue light will stop blinking and the strobe should now be sync’d the camera. SeaLife has released a beta firmware version V1.03, which includes a “Pre-Flash On/Off” setting. The Pre-Flash setting allows pre-flash to be enabled in Manual and UW Ext Flash modes. The Pre-Flash setting is always set to ON when shooting in Aperture Priority, Shutter Priority, Program, Intelligent Auto and some Land Scene modes.

You can download the beta firmware here - Firmware | Sealife Cameras

I hope this helps others. Sealife has been great in their response to this problem. And I really like my camera.

Below is a photo I took yesterday. Might not be exciting, but I think it is nice. f10 1/160sec dual strobes set at 6ish.

Porites_LC.jpg
 
Last edited:
https://www.shearwater.com/products/swift/

Back
Top Bottom