Weighting with Backplate/Wings and Drysuit

[00wabbit]

+1 for the weight and trim from DUI.

I dropped some weight because I didn't have to float all that extra fabric. I dropped some more because the backplate added 8 pounds.
Then I added a little weight back when I switched to a thicker undergarment.

 

[billt4sf]

I'm looking at Backplate/Wing systems (primarily Hollis and Dive Rite at the moment) and am wondering how people who dive drysuit configure their weights. I use about 34 lbs with a conventional BCD - 16 in the side pockets and the rest on a belt. I don't like more than 16-18 lbs on my belt so am wondering what options I have to put weight elsewhere with a BP/W system.

Thanks in advance for your help.

Dave

I am almost just finished with transitioning to a BP/W system. I like it!

I have the DSS BP with the bolt-on weighted backplates. My BP weighs 17 lbs. It's nice while diving to not have much weight on the belt, but there is a trade-off -- the thing is *really* heavy to carry around (and no convenient handle).

Someone on SB mentioned to me a stretchy weightbelt. It works wonders! Since it's stretchy, you can tighten it up appropriately, and it will not slip on your hips.

Usually the weightbelt goes under the harness, so even if it drops, it will not drop far. But check out that stretchy belt!

 

[g1138]

Bill's referring to a rubber weightbelt used by freedivers.
They can be real handy but also have their downsides when used in a scuba application.
Normally you over tighten these around your hip bones (lower than you would a scuba weightbelt) and they stay that way even at depth. So no constricting belt on your belly, and no adjusting belts at depth.

There's 3 types of buckles. Your wire buckle, quick release buckle, and Marseille buckle.




The wire buckle isn't quick adjustable. You have to thread through triglides at either end to adjust the length. So if you change exposure suits or weighting, you'll be rethreading that each time. To fine tune it to the right length you may have to thread it, try it on, take it off, repeat.

The quick release is exactly the same as your standard weight belt, however plastic buckles tend to pop open or takes a lot of force to close shut, because the rubber likes to rebound back. Metal buckles can eat into your rubber if they're too sharp.

The Marseille belts are usually skinner than 2in, and sometimes too thick for your usual single-slot vinyl bullet weights. So you have to use Tin Man's pinch weights or your 2 slot lead bricks.

All belts quick release easily, but if you're using more than 20lbs they tend to sag a bit on dry land and even in the water if you're vertical, because the rubber isn't rigid enough. Between brands, there is also a wide variety of rubber, thickness, and elasticity that can exacerbate these issues.

I personally don't see a huge benefit to work through these unless I'm freediving, so I don't use them for scuba. YMMV

 

[mathauck0814]

Just remember that most of the "optional add on" pieces to a BP/W kit are likely to add positive buoyancy. With a steel plate (standard ~6lbs) and a STA in a drysuit with the 4th element arctic undergarment I carried about 9lbs (HP100). I've since stopped single tank diving altogether and no longer need any lead, which is a very welcome respite. Adding shoulder pads and other extraneous bits turn your BP/W into something more like a jacket BC with a steel plate and requires more lead to sink. I'm not a big fan of schlepping any more gear into the water than is absolutely necessary so I keep it simple, use stainless steel where I can, and incorporate weight intelligently (like using a can light to augment the negativity of the whole kit).

 

[dlofting]

Thanks everyone for your replies.....some good ideas/thoughts here which will help me a lot.

Dave