What is your favorite Photoshop for underwater photos

Please register or login

Welcome to ScubaBoard, the world's largest scuba diving community. Registration is not required to read the forums, but we encourage you to join. Joining has its benefits and enables you to participate in the discussions.

Benefits of registering include

  • Ability to post and comment on topics and discussions.
  • A Free photo gallery to share your dive photos with the world.
  • You can make this box go away

Joining is quick and easy. Log in or Register now!

LakeCountyDiver

Contributor
Scuba Instructor
Divemaster
Messages
797
Reaction score
113
Location
Florida
# of dives
500 - 999
I have a sealife DC800 with the flash and it takes great pictures but some are FULL of back scatter and others are just not right.

I have Adobe Photoshop Elements 7 and it is WAY OVER MY HEAD when it comes to fixing pictures. Even the tutorials dont help with the things I want to fix.

I have a Dell-XPS with Windows Vista

What is the best Photoshop to use with underwater photos?
 
Photoshop is a subject that I can relate to. I'm using CS5, have CS3 and elements 10. The full blown versions are daunting but very powerful
more for design and professional use. The elements versions are perfect for recreational use. For all software there is a learning curve and I have
recommended to friends that they try Lynda.com. This site has great tutorials (video) for multitudes of programs, for different levels...work
at your own pace.
 
I second the Lightroom suggestion. Photoshop is more for massive fixing of major issues in a shot....it is a program that could take years of use to become proficient at.
Lightroom on the otherhand, is far more intuitive, and it's main purpose, is to give a photographer easy and rapid access to the main adjustments required for most photos that have been shot---change in gamma ( mid level light) , brightmess, blacks, shifting the color, sharpness, contrast.....but it does this using a very intuitive interface, and you can see the effects of your control changes the instant you make one, so you can find the right amount to change easily, and the right control.
Go to adobe and get the 30 day free trial of Lightroom.
 
Another vote for Lightroom. Designed for photographers not graphic artists...
 
I use Elements 7 for most of my editing, both RAW and after conversion. It's fairly easy to use once you know the tools. Backscatter is always difficult, but there are ways to minimize it. The easiest tool for it is the clone tool, but it's not the most accurate. Don't make your stamp too big, and try different areas to clone from. If it sucks, just go to edit and undo clone. You can isolate your subject using the magnetic lasso, which requires patience. If you then use "invert" you can adjust everything except the subject. Most of the tools I use for color and light are in the enhance menu. Under "color", you can adjust for skin tone. This is one way to adjust your white balance after the fact. Another method for that is "remove color cast". This is basically a white balance tool. Find a white or neutral gray area and click on it. If you don't like the result, look for a different spot that's better. In "adjust lighting" you can use the shadows and highlights adjustment to add light to areas that are too dark, tone down blown highlights and increase midrange contrast, which really helps on an overexposed shot. You can also use the "brightness and contrast" adjustment to add some pop. This adjustment is also useful after isolating your subject if you want to get rid of background backscatter by darkening the background. I almost always use the unsharp mask (usually 25% @ .2 pixels) and I use about 50% on "adjust sharpness" on the motion blur and lens blur settings. Keep your pixel settings low or you'll end up with a blurry picture. Same goes for Filters. You can use the "Noise>despeckle" or "Noise>remove dust and scratches" for little stuff, but if you use more than about .5 pixels, you'll blur the picture. If you don't like the result, go to edit and undo it.
Always, always, always "Save as" and use a different name for any new save so you don't lose your original. I use things like "DSC1050 PSE" or "PSE sm" after I adjust size to 800x600 for online sharing. If I crop I'll make it "crop PSE sm". If you get a prompt that says "do you want to replace this?" always cancel, never say yes. Good luck.
 
What? Edit my stills in Photoshop? Why mine are perfect as is... not. Actually I still use Photoshop 6.0, but I'm partially color blind so everything looks ok to me. Tee hee. Your mileage may vary.
 
I use Elements 7 for most of my editing, both RAW and after conversion. It's fairly easy to use once you know the tools. Backscatter is always difficult, but there are ways to minimize it. The easiest tool for it is the clone tool, but it's not the most accurate. Don't make your stamp too big, and try different areas to clone from. If it sucks, just go to edit and undo clone. You can isolate your subject using the magnetic lasso, which requires patience. If you then use "invert" you can adjust everything except the subject. Most of the tools I use for color and light are in the enhance menu. Under "color", you can adjust for skin tone. This is one way to adjust your white balance after the fact. Another method for that is "remove color cast". This is basically a white balance tool. Find a white or neutral gray area and click on it. If you don't like the result, look for a different spot that's better. In "adjust lighting" you can use the shadows and highlights adjustment to add light to areas that are too dark, tone down blown highlights and increase midrange contrast, which really helps on an overexposed shot. You can also use the "brightness and contrast" adjustment to add some pop. This adjustment is also useful after isolating your subject if you want to get rid of background backscatter by darkening the background. I almost always use the unsharp mask (usually 25% @ .2 pixels) and I use about 50% on "adjust sharpness" on the motion blur and lens blur settings. Keep your pixel settings low or you'll end up with a blurry picture. Same goes for Filters. You can use the "Noise>despeckle" or "Noise>remove dust and scratches" for little stuff, but if you use more than about .5 pixels, you'll blur the picture. If you don't like the result, go to edit and undo it.
Always, always, always "Save as" and use a different name for any new save so you don't lose your original. I use things like "DSC1050 PSE" or "PSE sm" after I adjust size to 800x600 for online sharing. If I crop I'll make it "crop PSE sm". If you get a prompt that says "do you want to replace this?" always cancel, never say yes. Good luck.

Dude!!! THANK YOU. You helped a ton with helping me figure out my photoshop. The color is usually pretty good but it is the back scatter that ruins the shot
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/swift/

Back
Top Bottom