What lens should I take.

[kelemvor]

So it looks like I'm going to get a housing for my d7100 and take it diving.

I currently own (all nikkor)
35mm prime f1.8
18-300 f3.5-5.6
70-300 f4.5-5.6
several 18-55 3.5-5.6

I'm somewhat keen to take the 35mm prime diving. I took a seminar at the blue wild expo a year or two ago and the speaker highly recommended 105mm prime. I don't currently own that lens but have been eyeing this one.

Also.. flat/dome front.. I don't fully understand the effect each would have.

I was kind of hoping that I could capture video of the galaxy dive at the upcoming megadive event with the f/1.8 lens. I don't think I can spend the money on a 105+port and a port for the 35mm both...

 

[Larry C]

35mm is reasonably useful, but neither macro nor wide angle. It will work in either a dome or a flat port. The minimum focus distance is very close, which is good for UW pictures, but even at closest focus, reproduction is only about 1:4. It's a nice lens for fish portraits, but too narrow for diver shots unless the subject is at least 8-10 feet away. That's OK if the water is clear, but it renders your strobe useless except for foreground detail. I've used mine for small schools of fish, seal head shots, portraits of larger fish, etc. but I don't take it out very often.
Most useful lenses are 60mm micro and either Tokina 10-17, Nikon 16mm or Sigma 15mm. The 105 micro is very useful for tropical diving, where the visibility is exceptional and for super macro using a +5 or +10 wet lens. it allows adequate distance from the subject to actually focus, without having the port sitting on top of the subject. (Downside of the 60 micro)
Dome ports are for wide angle lenses, flat ports are for macro and portrait lenses. A macro lens used in a dome will be slightly wider, but a mini dome allows you to use both types of lens reasonably well. Unless you use a port with an extension, a flat port that fits the 105mm will be too long for the 35mm. A dome port will not allow an add on super macro lens that you can put on the flat port. Hope that helps.

 

[James R]

IMO none of those are ideal for underwater.

Wide angle: Tokina 10-17 and 100mm dome - when I was using DX body, this was a fantastic combo! If you move to FX down the line, you'll probably sell both and move to different lenses.

Macro: 105 or 60, as you know, with flat port - these both work well, and if you ever move to FX you will still use them.

 

[Jim Lapenta]

While not a Nikon shooter I have just started into UW photography. The lenses I currently own and use or plan to use are the 18-55 IS kit lens that came with my SL1. It takes some really cool shots. So far only in the pool but amazed at the detail I can get. The one photo below is a drowned stinkbug in the pool with the 18-55 kit lens.
The torpedo is with the Tokina 10-17 I have.
I also have the 60mm IS macro but have not used it yet as I just got the flat port for it. I am anxiously awaiting the chance to get in open water with all of them. I hope to be able to shoot wrecks and will be playing with these lenses for that purpose later this spring at Gilboa to practice.
My UW photo instructor is really big on the Tokina 10-17 for UW stuff. But from my very limited time playing in the pool the 18-55 does a nice job on manual with autofocus adjusted. I'm using two Ikelite DS 51 stobes as well.

 

[fishpicturesbybob]

I shoot two different Nikon Cameras
The D7000 format is DX and thus has a smaller sensor - My go to lens with the D7000 is a Nikon 12 to 24 which would equate to a 18 to 36 on a full frame camera.
On my Nikon D4s (full frame sensor) my go to lens is a 16 to 35.
I of course use a lot of other lens selections for specific shots but for an unplanned dive that I expect just about anything I use the above.

 

[Storker]

First rule of UW photography: Get close. Then get closer. And when you think you're as close as possible, get even closer.

Which means there are only two good modes of UW photography: WA or macro. Neither of those lenses are particularly suitable for either mode. Me, I'd go for a superwide rectilinear WA, a fisheye or a medium-tele macro. Period.

 

[fishpicturesbybob]

A second rule is do not try manual focus if you are shooting a wide variety of subjects.
By the time you get your manual focus in shape the critter is gone and you have to start over.
The exception for me is doing some macro shots in calm water. I will pick a focus and move the camera back and forth to get the subject sharp.

 

[Storker]

First rule of UW photography: Get close. Then get closer. And when you think you're as close as possible, get even closer.

To elaborate: If your port isn't touching the subject, you can probably get closer.

Me, I'd go for a superwide rectilinear WA, a fisheye or a medium-tele macro. Period.

However, macro isn't very compatible with good buddy procedures. Which means that if you - like me - isn't comfortable with diving solo - or same day, same ocean - macro probably isn't for you.

 

[James R]

My dive buddy has attached her reef hook to my butt d-ring and pulled me away from a pygmy seahorse b/c she got sick of "watching me take pictures of coral." Communication with buddy is important

 

[WetLens]

Agree with others - your list of lenses are not really ideal for shooting UW with the D7100. I had a Tokina 10-17 and while others rave about it, I never really warmed up to it. Ended up selling it a few years ago. Only WA that I do with my D90 (crop sensor like the D7100) is with a 16mm prime. Effectively a 24mm, it is an okay WA and works well in clear water. My favorite lens on the D90 is the 60mm macro. Easy to do fish portraits and macro.

I like the 105, but it is somewhat limited in less that ideal vis. Depth of field is smaller the the 60 as well. As someone else said, the 105 works for macro and with a magnifier, for super-macro. Another go-to lens that I use with the D90 is a 16-85 behind an 8" dome. Not the best WA nor a great macro, but works when you want to be able to shoot a variety of subjects. It is a compromise, but then again, isn't everything in UW photography.