What regulator configuration makes the best pony tank reg system?

Please register or login

Welcome to ScubaBoard, the world's largest scuba diving community. Registration is not required to read the forums, but we encourage you to join. Joining has its benefits and enables you to participate in the discussions.

Benefits of registering include

  • Ability to post and comment on topics and discussions.
  • A Free photo gallery to share your dive photos with the world.
  • You can make this box go away

Joining is quick and easy. Log in or Register now!

Onewolf

Contributor
Messages
236
Reaction score
42
Location
East Central Florida
# of dives
200 - 499
I've started shopping for a pony tank system to be used as the 'redundant air system' when I take the solo certification class this summer. My diving is limited to Florida/Caribbean (fairly warm water, good vis, no overhead).

What regulator configuration (piston/diaphragm, balanced/unbalanced, etc) makes the best pony tank reg system and why?

Thanks.
 
whatever one you have is generally going to be the "best" :-D
I have the same regs on all of my bottles. Balanced diaphragms. They're there for ease of service for me. I don't dive with a pony hardly ever, but it does get a different color primary cap than my back gas. Same color I use for stage bottles.
Anyway, whatever you have on your back gas is probably the best thing to have. You're familiar with those regs, and it makes servicing easier.
For a lot of warm salt water, I would recommend a sealed diaphragm though just for corrosion prevention. Seems to be no mater how much you soak unsealed regs they still find a way to get corroded
 
I use balanced piston 1sts on back gas but unbalanced pistons on my pony. The unbalanced piston may not perform quite as well as other 1st stages in terms of flow rate capabilities, but their simpler design (no dynamic HP o-ring) makes them just about bullet proof. I don't need top performance from a pony regulator but I do want reliability (and light weight).
 
I use an Apeks AT20 on my bailout tank, it's a balanced diaphragm 1st (US4) and a High performance 2nd (air barrel), it's inexpensive (MSRP $300) and reliable. Mine has been converted to DIN and has been sealed (Converted to a DS4) these are not necessary but can be done if needed.
 
The set you can get for free, otherwise any unbalanced 1st would do fine, sealed or not. The only benefit of sealed is extreme cold, or if you dive in your toilet a lot.
 
The set you can get for free, otherwise any unbalanced 1st would do fine, sealed or not. The only benefit of sealed is extreme cold, or if you dive in your toilet a lot.

What do you mean dive in your toilet - I dive where the fish poop and my reg ain't sealed. That said, selecting a reg that similar to your other regs is typically a good choice from both a service and knowledge point of view. Remember, pony regs often get neglected a bit so some thing that can with stand some abuse is always better.
 
By toilet he means a very dirty silty place, as debris could enter the 1st stage of an unsealed reg and prevent the main spring from operating properly. Cave Diving and Wreck diving are two activities that I would recommend using a sealed 1st regardless of the temperature of the water.

A sealed regulator is cheap insurance if you are buying new, IMO it's worth the extra few bucks.
 
I just use my old regulators from before I upgraded. Just use what you have.

Adam

My only regulator is the Atomic B1/B2 I purchased when I got certified 11 years ago.

Thanks for all the responses so far. Right now I'm leaning towards the Hollis DIN DC1/212 since I can get it new for $279.
 
You do want to avoid Sherwoods with the dry bleed. The check viable is not 100% positive so you need to keep the first stage pressurized while wet. Otherwise a chamber flood is possible and it will not rinse clean. That may or may not be your planned technique but why be constrained?
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/perdix-ai/

Back
Top Bottom