Where to buy regulator parts kits

[rescuediver009]

It's only seems out of the ordinary because you've been taught that such things must be taken care of at the shop...go figure.

Virtually every one we dive with does their own work on equipment and has always done so. It doesn't seem out of the ordinary at all too me.

By all means though be as reliant as you want on your local shop. They need the business I'm sure.

Don't get me wrong here, I service my own stuff too. however, I am certified in what I work on and I do it more often than most people who just do their own once a year or so. What I am speaking for is the idea that everyone should service their own regs. Its right up there with all reg advice coming down to apeks, and all BC questions coming to " just buy a BP&W"
Surely you wouldn't give this advice to the avid diver...

 

[MikeFerrara]

Don't get me wrong here, I service my own stuff too. however, I am certified in what I work on and I do it more often than most people who just do their own once a year or so. What I am speaking for is the idea that everyone should service their own regs. Its right up there with all reg advice coming down to apeks, and all BC questions coming to " just buy a BP&W"
Surely you wouldn't give this advice to the avid diver...

I agree that not every one should or even wants to do their own service. Just like not every one wants to work on their own car. Divers ahould have a choice though.

 

[pipedope]

Most of the people I know who are servicing their own regs are not just doing one reg a year.
Most own anything from as few as 4 to as many as 12 (a few own more than that) regulators and most service at least some of the regs more than once a year.

Should everybody service their own regs?
NO!
But they should all have the choice.

 

[FredT]

In any event, my experience has been that there are those that are competent enough to rebuild regulators easily, but that there are also folks that I wouldn't trust to touch my regulators or other important piece of equipment - we've all known some clutzes, haven't we?

Correct analogy. Of course it breaks down when discussing if the dive shop tech is one of those "competent" ones! The ONLY times I've had freshly rebuilt regs fail in the field were when they were "professionally" rebuilt!

When my source for Scubapro parts went south I Rplaced the SP regs with newish Oceanic regs I could get parts for. Their legal team has now decided I need to no longer buy their products. If I can't get regulator parts, there is no reason to support the company in ANYTHING!

BTW as a professional Ocean Engineer I am quite capable of both designing and building my OWN regs. According to Company Lawyers the tank monkey in the LDS is much more competent to rebuild one.

Wrong answer!

 

[Bootybreath]

Hey V

Firstly thanx a bunch for your books,they`re super...and I prefer your writing to agatha christie !!

Re tank cleaning ...

I have steel fabers and when I wet them to clean them, by the time I get the fluid out (30secs), they are already rusting.Hair dryer works too slow. I am currently blasting the tanks with scuba-air and they dry within 60secs...but with an orange film of rust.

Global recomends compound O which as you know already is a diethanolamine solution.
I have found some info on the stuff and everybody swears they are highly cancerous chemicals even in small quantities.Search on diethanolamine and see for yourself.

Is it overkill to blast em with nitrogen?
Do you have a simpler/cheaper solution?
Or is the diethanolamine solution the only way to go?

PLEASE ADVISE ME

 

[FredT]

Final rinsing the tanks with boiling water and a forced dry air from a scuba tank will dry most steels without rusting. Drying with dry nitrogen or other bottled intert gas ensures no rust, but is a bit of an overkill $ wise.

FT

 

[rescuediver009]

Re tank cleaning ...

I have steel fabers and when I wet them to clean them, by the time I get the fluid out (30secs), they are already rusting.Hair dryer works too slow. I am currently blasting the tanks with scuba-air and they dry within 60secs...but with an orange film of rust.

Global recomends compound O which as you know already is a diethanolamine solution.
I have found some info on the stuff and everybody swears they are highly cancerous chemicals even in small quantities.Search on diethanolamine and see for yourself.

Is it overkill to blast em with nitrogen?
Do you have a simpler/cheaper solution?
Or is the diethanolamine solution the only way to go?

PLEASE ADVISE ME

Yeah the flash crap can be a pain in the butt. I use a reinforced lp hose so that it stays rigid to reach the bottom. But I wouldn't worry too much about the global stuff. If it is diluted properly, it shouldn't be too much harm.

 

[FredT]

Simple method is to use a fairly long hose. Following the agitation whippiing of the tank the water inside will still be spinning a bit. Quickly insert the hose and invert the tank in the rack, then hit the supply tank valve. Water is out and the tank is dry in a matter of seconds! Keep well clear when you hit the valve though cause that boiling water comes out FAST when you open a 3000 psi line in there.

FT

 

[Redwulf]

I was just wondering if anyone had an answer to my question a page or so back. Thanks.

 

[SamDiver14]

Redwulf,
I don't particularly like any one messing with any thing that belongs to me that is mechanical. There are few people I trust to do my brakes on my truck. That being said, I don't think anyone should dive really seriously (100+ dives a year) without being able to do their own service. I think you just need to know how it all works inside and out. Now that said, I would never do anything to jepordize my warranty with the reg company. So the only solution for me was to go to DEMA and take the tech course for my particular models. Now everybody is happy but most importantly, I am happy, comfortable and confident in my gear.
So my advice, for what its worth (not much anyway), is to go and get the certification to work on your regs and then do it.