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a_squeakycat
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Nice shots DrKevbo, can I ask what you use for lighting ?
Wide Angle setup for NEX-7 ??
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DrKevbo
Contributor
I use 2 Inon z240 and Solo 1200. Several of these shots were with natural light.
Do you find that F8 and F5.6 are rather soft, even in the centre? I only get sharp pics at F11, which is a pity. I have focus peaking on, but you can't adjust focus anyways.
It's a great lens for video, especially wrecks and as scooter mounted.
South Anambas Exploration Tec Dive - YouTube
Oct'13 on The Ark - YouTube
Marshmellow
Contributor
Hey Alien,
Just saw your post and thought I'd jump I'm because I LOVE focus peaking on the NEX cameras.
Focus peaking puts a colored highlight, sort of like a shimmering halo around high contrast areas that are in focus. On my NEX7 I can choose whether I want the peaking level low , medium, or high. You can also choose the color of the highlight from White, yellow or red (future Sony cameras offer more colors selections from what I've read). I prefer yellow myself because it's so obvious and I set the level on high because I don't use the eye piece viewfinder, but rather the rear LCD screen UW. Focus peaking is very handy because when I see the yellow highlight, it's in focus. For macro work, when you lock the focus (after you've dialed it in with auto) you can rock back and forth slightly and actually see the yellow band of light move back and forth on your subject.
To set it up:
1.Push "Menu" button
2. Go to "Setup"
3. Scroll to "Peaking Level" set to low, med, or high.
4. Scroll to "Peaking Color" (next down) decide on the color you want.
Focus on something and you'll see the shimmering highlight. Depending on what level you set it at, it will be slight or heavy.
if I use it on the surface, I set it low because I want to see the detail in my composure without the effect being too heavy (I often even turn it off). Underwater I just want to set up my main composure and get the shot before it's gone. I like the effect heavy so I can easily see it. For macro work, focus peaking is fantastic. I leave it on all the time. No longer a need to press my face against the eye piece viewfinder and wonder where my focal point is when I'm rocking the camera back and forth. I can see the yellow halo move on the subject's body to right where I want the focus to be and hit the shutter. Sweet.
Just saw your post and thought I'd jump I'm because I LOVE focus peaking on the NEX cameras.
Focus peaking puts a colored highlight, sort of like a shimmering halo around high contrast areas that are in focus. On my NEX7 I can choose whether I want the peaking level low , medium, or high. You can also choose the color of the highlight from White, yellow or red (future Sony cameras offer more colors selections from what I've read). I prefer yellow myself because it's so obvious and I set the level on high because I don't use the eye piece viewfinder, but rather the rear LCD screen UW. Focus peaking is very handy because when I see the yellow highlight, it's in focus. For macro work, when you lock the focus (after you've dialed it in with auto) you can rock back and forth slightly and actually see the yellow band of light move back and forth on your subject.
To set it up:
1.Push "Menu" button
2. Go to "Setup"
3. Scroll to "Peaking Level" set to low, med, or high.
4. Scroll to "Peaking Color" (next down) decide on the color you want.
Focus on something and you'll see the shimmering highlight. Depending on what level you set it at, it will be slight or heavy.
if I use it on the surface, I set it low because I want to see the detail in my composure without the effect being too heavy (I often even turn it off). Underwater I just want to set up my main composure and get the shot before it's gone. I like the effect heavy so I can easily see it. For macro work, focus peaking is fantastic. I leave it on all the time. No longer a need to press my face against the eye piece viewfinder and wonder where my focal point is when I'm rocking the camera back and forth. I can see the yellow halo move on the subject's body to right where I want the focus to be and hit the shutter. Sweet.
Thx Marsh very good info. But you do need to be on constant manual focus? How do you do this underwater? Do you use the toggle or push button for the AF/MF button. Sorry these questions so pathetic I have only every used autofocus.
Marshmellow
Contributor
Alien,
There are 3 focus modes: Auto, DMF, Manual. I leave mine on DMF as this allows auto focus and focus peaking to be on at the same time. DMF mode is actually designed so you can be in auto focus mode and make small manual focus adjustments, but since you are not actually turning the focus collar and engaging it, it stays in auto focus and allows focus peaking to be on all the time. I always leave focus mode in DMF UW whether I'm shooting macro or WA because I want focus peaking always on and present.
I prefer "toggle" mode on the AF/MF button because I want my attention on the shutter button and handling of the camera when I'm rocking the rig for final focal point on the subject; I don't want to have to hold that button with my thumb at the same time. I suppose it's personal preference all depending on your finger placement and coordination
It's simply another thing I have to do with my hands, so I prefer to toggle and not hold. Of course, when in toggle mode you just have to remember to push it again to unlock and return to auto focus mode for the next shot. The little rectangle indicator in the center of the screen that turns green when you are in focus disappears/reappears when you lock/unlock the focus. It's a nice visual indicator to let's one know if the focus is locked or not. Even if you forget to unlock it, the next time you press the shutter button half way to focus, IT WON"T and you'll simply push the lock button and toggle auto focus back on. Once you get used to using the little rectangle as an indicator, you know beforehand that it's still in locked mode. Too bad the toggle off doesn't just reset itself after the shutter release, maybe Sony will give us a choice in a firmware upgrade someday (Ha, I doubt it). Try it both ways and see what works best for you.
Cheers,
Marsh
There are 3 focus modes: Auto, DMF, Manual. I leave mine on DMF as this allows auto focus and focus peaking to be on at the same time. DMF mode is actually designed so you can be in auto focus mode and make small manual focus adjustments, but since you are not actually turning the focus collar and engaging it, it stays in auto focus and allows focus peaking to be on all the time. I always leave focus mode in DMF UW whether I'm shooting macro or WA because I want focus peaking always on and present.
I prefer "toggle" mode on the AF/MF button because I want my attention on the shutter button and handling of the camera when I'm rocking the rig for final focal point on the subject; I don't want to have to hold that button with my thumb at the same time. I suppose it's personal preference all depending on your finger placement and coordination
It's simply another thing I have to do with my hands, so I prefer to toggle and not hold. Of course, when in toggle mode you just have to remember to push it again to unlock and return to auto focus mode for the next shot. The little rectangle indicator in the center of the screen that turns green when you are in focus disappears/reappears when you lock/unlock the focus. It's a nice visual indicator to let's one know if the focus is locked or not. Even if you forget to unlock it, the next time you press the shutter button half way to focus, IT WON"T and you'll simply push the lock button and toggle auto focus back on. Once you get used to using the little rectangle as an indicator, you know beforehand that it's still in locked mode. Too bad the toggle off doesn't just reset itself after the shutter release, maybe Sony will give us a choice in a firmware upgrade someday (Ha, I doubt it). Try it both ways and see what works best for you. Cheers,
Marsh
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I was waiting on a PM reply from Drkevbo for this question since he seemed to have some experience with this setup, but I thought I would ask publicly. I recently invested in na-nex7 and one of the ports I purchased was the dome 4.33. I bought the Samyang 8mm f2.8 to pair with it. Unfortunately, the lens seems to sit back too far and you can see a small part of the shade on the dome from the bottom and sides. I can crop pics of course, not that I want to necessarily, but I wanted to use this for video as well. In 16:9 you only see the sides of the shade. Is there any way to fix this issue? Is there a different port or different fisheye maybe? TIA Edit: I really don't want to use the 16mm with W/A.
---------- Post added February 4th, 2014 at 11:27 AM ----------
Did some research on my own. Seems there is no other option for the 4.33 dome except the 16mm f.28 with the converters. I guess for the price it seems an okay way to go. I picked up the 16mm plus the VCELCU1 and VCELCF1 for right at $333 (used 16mm f2.8). Seems I will have to deal with a little lower IQ, CA, softness et al, but at least I get a set up that works. More post I guess. Eventually, I will add the 10-18 with the 7" dome as another wide angle option. Rokinon had the f3.5 CSII which seemed to have the correct length to fit under the dome, but it is too wide for the na-nex7 ports. Opening for the ports is just under 70mm, and the Rokinon comes in at 77mm. Bummer. I will do some comparing of the two setups just to see if all the previous reviews are in line (8mm f2.8 vs 16mm w/converter).
---------- Post added February 4th, 2014 at 11:27 AM ----------
Did some research on my own. Seems there is no other option for the 4.33 dome except the 16mm f.28 with the converters. I guess for the price it seems an okay way to go. I picked up the 16mm plus the VCELCU1 and VCELCF1 for right at $333 (used 16mm f2.8). Seems I will have to deal with a little lower IQ, CA, softness et al, but at least I get a set up that works. More post I guess. Eventually, I will add the 10-18 with the 7" dome as another wide angle option. Rokinon had the f3.5 CSII which seemed to have the correct length to fit under the dome, but it is too wide for the na-nex7 ports. Opening for the ports is just under 70mm, and the Rokinon comes in at 77mm. Bummer. I will do some comparing of the two setups just to see if all the previous reviews are in line (8mm f2.8 vs 16mm w/converter).
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