Xtar D26 1100 vs D26 1600 Review

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rob.mwpropane

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I'm an avid diver, if there wasn't so much life to get in the way I would dive more! I've been diving for ~ 3 years, just to keep everything in retrospect.

Let me start by saying that I received a D26 1600 for review. I have personally purchased 2 - D26 1100 previously and was excited to give the 1600 a shot. This past Friday I finally found time to get to the local quarry and give it a test it in the water.

Differences noted between the 1100 vs 1600; obviously the 1600 is brighter, but only slightly, at least to my naked eye. The 1600 starts in turbo, then drops sequentially through the remaining 3 modes going lower with each push. The 1100 starts high, then goes to turbo, then cycles through the last 2 modes.

Both have push button but the 1100 has a turn to lock feature, where the 1600 has a tap and push / hold for 3 seconds to lock, same in reverse. If I'm being honest, the 1100 is slightly cumbersome in the water, but with the lock turned I've never had any issues where the 1100 came on in my bag. The 1600 has come on twice now and although I've caught it I wouldn't be surprised if one day it's dead when I go to use it. It would almost be better if it was a double tap then long hold, or even a triple tap. The single tap then long hold can happen inadvertently (as it's happened to others here on SB).

Both can be powered by either 18650 or the larger 26650 which is really nice.

I know there were a few people here on SB that had an issue with the 1600 draining the power on their lights. Mine does not seem to have that issue. Fresh battery has been in it for 48 hours as of right now and the light is still bright and the indication light still green. So it looks like that issue was fixed.

I like the original a lot, so much so that I bought another, ....and now one of which is somewhere near the Robert Gaskin in the St. Lawrence River, so if one of you comes by it, I'd like it returned to me:)

To me the 1100 is just about the perfect dive light, and after a few tries with the lock I think you get used to it. There's a tactile click at the end of the turn that I can feel that lets me know it's locked or not. The 1600 is also a great light. It is about $25 more (at the time of this writing). It is a good light though. I really like them both. I know we're supposed to steer clear of a lot of ebay stuff for dive gear, but these little lights seem to be really well made and they work amazing. @stuartv wrote about this light and @aviator8 also has an awesome write up on these lights.

I take at least one on every dive. If it's a night dive, 2. I'm really happy with them and I'd be surprised to find someone with a better quality light at the same price point that has the same feature set. Obviously there's better lights out there for tons more money, but when I lost my dive light on the SLR I didn't sweat it. In the grand scheme of things it was $54 at the time I bought it:) I continued my dive with the knowledge that my bolt snap skills need improvement...(bolt snap was on d-ring, light was not:mad:


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1100 on the left, 1600 on the right
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1100 on the left, 1600 on the right
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1600 on the left, 1100 on the right
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1600 on the left, 1100 on the right
 
LOL, that sucks. do you finish the knot of with a drop of superglue? It wont come undone if you do. Nice writeup.

No, but I guess that's a pretty good idea, lol. I do melt it with the lighter, but will definitely add super glue before the next dive. Thanks!

I followed Lake Hickory Scubas video on You Tube about bolt snaps. In my defense, it was one of the first bolt snaps I ever did.
 
You know what really sucks, is being paranoid as all hell that another bolt snap will come loose on EVERY dive after that one up until current. The super glue will really put my mind at ease.
 
Is the light in the middle the BX2? If so, how would you compare that lights brightness/output curve to the xtars?

The DR BX2 is a nice light. It's great for a backup, but I believe it has a different led in it as opposed to the 1100. It would be more comparable to the 1100 as far as brighness goes (to me), but I don't think it's as good. It can only run on a 18650 battery (which is fine), and it doesn't have different brightness levels, which I really like about he 1100 and 1600. I believe it's around the same price point as the 1600, maybe slightly less.

The beam on the BX2 seems to be tighter / smaller to me also. I really should have taken it in the quarry with me, maybe this upcoming weekend I'll try to get a video or 2 up. Hope that helps some.
 
Thanks. I have the CX1 which is awesome, but wanting to get a few more cheaper alternatives that are atleast the same or brighter. I guess the 1600 would be closer in output as the CX1 is a lot brighter than the BX2.
 
Thanks. I have the CX1 which is awesome, but wanting to get a few more cheaper alternatives that are atleast the same or brighter. I guess the 1600 would be closer in output as the CX1 is a lot brighter than the BX2.

I can take pictures of the beam tonight so you can see. I like that both the 1100 and 1600 have modes as opposed to on / off. It's nice to be able to pull back the brightness and save battery.
 
I take at least one on every dive. If it's a night dive, 2. I'm really happy with them and I'd be surprised to find someone with a better quality light at the same price point that has the same feature set. Obviously there's better lights out there for tons more money, but when I lost my dive light on the SLR I didn't sweat it. In the grand scheme of things it was $54 at the time I bought it:) I continued my dive with the knowledge that my bolt snap skills need improvement...(bolt snap was on d-ring, light was not:mad:

That happened to me once. My line was still on the bolt snap, too. A sharp edge in the light's lanyard hole had cut through it. Now, instead of tying on cave line, I use 2 small zip ties to attach my bolt snap to my light. Haven't lost a light since.

Oh, and on the 1600's "lock": I've had mine locked and then turn on accidentally - during a dive! - more than once. It appears that it just gets pressed between my arm and body or something. And, of course, it's clipped to my shoulder strap and pointing more or less backwards, so I don't even know it's on until a buddy tells me.

My current protocol is to carry a 1600 as my primary - i.e. in a soft Goodman on my hand - and have an 1100 (or 2) locked and clipped to me as a backup.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/perdix-ai/

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