Zeagle ZX 2nd stage question

[divad]

My ZX does have a plastic orifice even though it is post-2000.

I meant 2005 ('05).

---------- Post added October 31st, 2013 at 07:17 AM ----------

My ZX does have a plastic orifice even though it is post-2000. And it is looking a bit ragged
I'm going to see if my new HOGs meet my needs and then decide what to do with this old clunker.

You sound bitter.........almost to the point of silliness. (smile face). This sounds like a perfect opportunity to work on a second stage, ie, take one apart, see how much simpler it seems than than the schematic, make an improvement, put it back together, experiment with it and finally have a much better (literal) understanding of barrel poppet second stages like the HOG which is almost identical to the Zeagle. I use HOGs as backups to my Zeagles so please don't insult my poor Zeagles. They've done nothing to you. Leave them alone.





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• Regulator Service Kits
• Zeagle Second Stage Orifice

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ZEAGLE SECOND STAGE ORIFICE

PRICE:$9.99

SKU:
200-399

WEIGHT:
0.20 LBS

SHIPPING:
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PRODUCT DESCRIPTION

Zeagle Second Stage Orifice Zeagle # 342-0212-4B This is a replacement orifice for Zeagle Second stages. This version replaces the blue plastic one with a stainless steel orifice.

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[halocline]

The results were not reproducible. Which is to say that I didn't get consistent results at different fractions of a turn. So it is looking like there may be something else going on. But I did eventually get it to a point where the free-flow was consistently gone for multiple breathing cycles. It wasn't that far (1/8th of a turn). Maybe that is all that was necessary. I'll dive it soon to see how it behaves.

This is not uncommon. There's a very thin line between slight free-flow and the lightest possible orifice adjustment. Combine that with inexpensive springs and soft materials, and you'll find some variance in the exact spot where free-flow is initiated, especially as the seat gets worn in. Most good 2nd stages will start flowing at cracking effort either at or below the minimum setting for stability in all positions as determined by the case fault geometry, which is related to the depth distance between the diaphragm center and the exhaust valve. Setting 2nd stages much below 1" of cracking effort is, usually, not worth it because they won't stay stable in all positions.

If you replace the spring in your 2nd stage it might give you more consistent adjustment, but that's only a guess.