Why Dive A Wreck When You Can Dive An Entire Fleet?

truk-lagoon-regional-map 506px-Truk_Lagoon A-light-tank-on-the-deck-of-the-San-Francisco-Maru-at-about-50m-depth-in-Truk-La

Truk Lagoon, also called Chuuk Lagoon, is not your average dive site. It was known as the “Gilbralter of the Pacific” and by the end of February 18th, 1944 became the biggest graveyard of ships in the world. Jacques Cousteau explored Truk in 1969 and in 1971 aired his documentary “The Ghost Fleet of Truk Lagoon”. Over the years many of these vessels have become coral reefs on their exposed surfaces, but in their holds where little natural light penetrates, the products and spare parts used in warfare may be found stacked the sameway they were the day the ships went down. On some ships that have been explored, items have been moved by divers such as a gas mask placed on the barrel of a coral encrusted gun or a group of plates and bowls set out as if ready to be used for a picnic. Depth charges have been removed for obvious reasons. Other items to view include a porcelain baby bath, trucks, anti-aircraft guns on decks, tanks on decks, tanks resting on tanks, sake bottles, medicine bottles, torpedoes, mines, bullets, bombs, Betty bomber parts, zero fighter parts and engines, and the skeletal remains of those that made the ultimate sacrifice for their country.

gallery_pic_6541_67388 0001400_truk-lagoon-micronesia Truk_Lagoon

Since the only way to truly get in touch with what transpired in this now tranquil lagoon with water visibility over 50ft /17m year round is to go back in time and embrace a little history of the islands.

Chuuk_Lagoon_1 dublonexplosion Hokuyo Maru 2

Truk Lagoon is an atol in the South Pacific about 1,000 miles NE of New Guinea and 3,300 miles SW of Hawaii. The tallest of the main seven islands is 1,500ft above sea level. Some hundred smaller islands are also found around inside and outside the atol of 140 semi-rectangular miles round. The atoll has a deep water lagoon of 800 square miles, so it is not small by any means and this attracted sailors, traders, and whalers from around the world.  Alvaro de Saavedra was the first European to land here in 1528 and like any European did at the time, he ignored the natives living in Truk for some 2,000 years and claimed Truk and the surrounding Caroline Islands for Spain. That being said, nothing much happened for 300 years until Spain lost the Spanish-American War in 1898 and the U.S. gained the rights of many tropical resort like islands. Any monopoly player would have said this is a bad idea, but the U.S. sold the islands (except for Guam) to the German Empire in 1899 for 4.2 million dollars.

Truk-Micronesia-wallpaper 1_Truk_Chuuk_Scuba_diving_holiday_coast_700x467 Truk Lagoon Islands

In 1914 Japan in a secret pact with Britain seized control of all Micronesia and in 1919 Imperial Japan’s control was formerly recognized by the League of Nation’s mandate. By 1920 there was an exclusion of foreign ships into Truk Lagoon and Imperial Japan somehow accidentally over looked the restrictions which prohibited fortification and colonization in Micronesia. By the 1930’s there were more Japanese colonists than natives in Truk. In 1939 the Japanese passed the Military Manpower Mobilization Law to conscript labor for the empire and soon Koreans, local islanders, and 2,000 convicts from Yokohama Central Prison were conscripted to perform manual air field construction. In all, the Imperial Japanese Civil Engineering Department and Naval Construction Department had built roads, trenches bunkers, caves, five air strips, a sea plane station, torpedo boat station, a radar station, a communication center, submarine repair shops, and coastal defense gun implacements. Some eighty times bigger than Pearl Harbor, Truck Lagoon was home to battleships, aircraft carriers, cruisers, destroyers, tankers, tugboats, gun boats, cargo ships, minesweepers, submarines, and landing craft. Some 250 aircraft were also based there. By 1941 there were an estimated 100, 000 Japanese in the islands as compared to a mere 50,000 Micronesians. By August 1942 Admiral Isoroku Yamamoto located his headquarters on board the battleship Yamato in Truk and in 1943 transferred his headquarters to the sister ship Susashi. On a side note, well before the raid on Truk, Admiral Yamamoto was killed on April 18, 1943 while flying in a G4M “Betty” Bomber over the Solomon Islands. A similar “Betty” bomber is one of the wrecks resting in Truk Lagoon.

After the fall of Kwajelien Atol, Japanese intelligence determined that U.S. forces now had air superiority and so Imperial Japan withdrew the larger ships to Palau a week before the U.S. was slated to attack Truk.

170284-corals-mixing-with-a-wreck-in-chuuk-lagoon 7019373_orig 2014661145450_truk-lagoon-web-small720

Operation Hailstone commenced on February 17th, 1944 in the early morning hours with the first wave of 72 Gruman F6F Hellcats targeting any flying Japanese planes and then those still on the ground. They were followed by TBF Avengers Torpedo Bombers and 3BD Dauntless Dive Bombers all coming from five fleet carriers, and four light carriers, and reinforced with 7 battleships, destroyers, cruisers submarines, and supply ships for a total of 60 ships and 500 planes.

By the first day 124 Japanese planes were shot down in flight and another 150 destroyed on the ground before they could even join the fight. That night radar equiped avengers pounded the islands and U.S. warships and submarines surrounded the atoll. The Japanese cruiser Agano tried to escape and was torpedoed just outside the lagoon by the submarine U.S.S Skate. The crew of the Agano, was picked up by the Destroyer Oite, and when she came back inside the lagoon to assist with anti-aircraft fire power, she was hit and sunk, and only 20 crew members from the Oite survived the attack. The former home of the Imperial Japanese combined fleet headquarters became a sunken ship graveyard in less than two days. The U.S. lost 25 planes and 40 men, 11 of which were killed on the Intrepid when it was damaged by an attack from a solo Japanese torpedo bomber thought to be en route from Saipan or Rabaul. By the next day, February 18, twenty years of military buildup was destroyed and Truk could not assist with any reinforcement or support when the U.S. invaded Eniwetok. For the United States of America, pay back for Pearl Harbor had just been delivered.

By late April, Imperial Japan had moved almost 100 planes from Rabaul to Truk and on April 29th a second attack on Truk left 59 planes shot out of the sky and 34 destroyed on the ground. This day and a half assault also destroyed gas and oil tank farms. From this point forward 90% of the Imperial Japanese military supplies did not make it to the islands. The U.S. also began using Truk for bomber practice for Japan. The cut off Japanese soldiers on Truk were left isolated and starving until they surrendered on September 2nd, 1945.

Aikoku Maru - Stern Gun dsc_0034 truk2010day5-137

The Imperial Japanese navy ships sunk on February 17th and 18, 1944 include:

Three Japanese light cruisers: Agano, Katori, & Naka.

Four Destroyers: Oite, Fumizuki, Maikaze, & Tachikaze.

Auxiliary cruisers: Akagi Maru, Aitoku Maru, Kiyosumi Maru.

Two submarine tenders: Heian Maru, Rio de Janiero Maru.

Smaller warships and sub chasers: CH-24, Shonan Maru 15.

Aircraft transport Fujikawa Maru.

32 merchant ships were also sunk in the attack. The submarine I-169 which actually sunk by accident, but played a role in the attack on Pearl Harbor was destroyed by the Imperial Japanese navy fearing the U.S. would get inside her and capture vital military information. There are still 14 unidentified wrecks and eight sunken aircraft around Truk Lagoon. The largest wreck is the Heian Maru, the San Francisco Maru is popular for its tanks on deck, the Fujikawa is known for its engine room and machine shop, and the Hanakawa has spectacular coral growth.

article-2560772-1B8AF2F300000578-241_964x848 truk_lagoon1 df6958c616ad56a948dbb388a300cf53

Prior to 1944 several other ships sank in and around truk lagoon, most notable, the Sapporo Maru auxillary storeship, the freighter Katsuragisan, the tugboat Ojima, and the transport ship Kikukawa Maru. We think reading Dive Truk Lagoon by Rod MacDonald is a good way to wreck your day.

1385049402_jpg_CROP_promo-large2 truk-Lagoon-3 zzzCOA957_13

So as you can see, there are many ships to view, but many wrecks are too deep to visit unless you are tech diver certified. The liveaboard vessel SS Thorfin caters to divers using rebreathers or technical dive equipment as well as recreational divers. Meanwhile at least nine large wrecks are located at depths of 60-120ft (20-40m). The liveaboard Odyssey Adventures goes to some 15 of the large and small wrecks dotted around Truk’s waters. Many artifacts can be seen slightly above or just below the surface. The deeper you go, the more items you will see in their original, non-coral colonized, post-war preserved state. It takes several trips to tour Truk Lagoon and see the entire underwater historical museum, this one of a kind uniquely structured coral garden, and the world’s largest fleet graveyard.

11 Responses

  1. <p>Im there in May 17</p>
  2. OMG is that beautiful, and historic. Bucket list...<br />-----<br />
  3. I'm leading a trip there in June 2017. I have all 16 slots on the Odyssey reserved for the week beginning June 18th and have a few spots open. If you would like more info email me at [email][/email]<br />-----<br />
  4. Adding this to my list for sure. Diving wrecks is an incomperable way to experience historical events and sometimes tragedy's. Can't wait to be able to go here one day!<br />-----<br />
  5. [B]Truk Lagoon Ghosts of the Past[/B] GUE Seattle and LAUE explore the wonderful wrecks of Truk Lagoon (2013): [MEDIA=vimeo]138115376[/MEDIA] Compare with these classic Truk film & analog video archives from the past: 1970: [URL='']The Undersea World of Jacques Cousteau: Lagoon of Lost Ships[/URL] 1984: [URL='']Ghost Ships of Truk Lagoon[/URL]<br />-----<br />[SIZE=1][FONT=Arial]"One way of looking at this might be that for 42 years, I've been making small, regular deposits in this bank of experience, education and training. And on January 15 [2009] the balance was sufficient so that I could make a very large withdrawal." Capt. Chesley B. "Sully" Sullenberger III, US Airways Flight 1549 ("[URL=""]Miracle on the Hudson[/URL]") [/FONT][/SIZE][SIZE=1][FONT=arial] "What stays with you latest and deepest? Of curious panics,Of hard-fought engagements or sieges tremendous -what deepest remains?" —Walt Whitman, “The Wound-Dresser”[/FONT][/SIZE][SIZE=2][FONT=Arial Black][B][I] "Chance favors the prepared mind" --Louis Pasteur[/I][/B][/FONT][/SIZE]
  6. Definitely on my and my husband's bucket list! Thanks for all the info, a great review!
  7. I went there in 2012 (my profile pic was taken on the San Francisco Maru). One of the best weeks of my life without exaggeration. Just fantastic. I am hoping the wrecks keep holding up so that I can go back with my sons one day.<br />-----<br />[SIZE=3][COLOR=Navy][B]Rhone Man[/B][/COLOR][/SIZE] [SIZE=1][I]British Virgin Islands[/I] [B][URL=""]Sterling Divers[/URL][/B] - saluting the pioneers of modern technical diving. [URL=""]British Virgin Islands diving guide on WikiTravel[/URL] - written mostly by me. [Life] ain't about how hard ya hit. It's about how hard you can [I]get hit[/I] and keep moving forward.” — Sylvester Stallone - [I]Rocky Balboa (2006)[/I][/SIZE]
  8. OMG, my husband has been trying to convince me that this should be on our bucket list, and now I see why. Great review. Thanks!<br />-----<br />[URL='']Sharo[/URL]n https://[URL=''][/URL]
  9. Recently moved to Kwajalein. Not yet dive certified but working on it. Can't wait to dive the wrecks out here! Great article!<br />-----<br />
  10. [QUOTE="Maduro Dive, post: 7720201, member: 420046"]Maduro Dive A new article has been posted [URL='']TRUK LAGOON[/URL] [IMG][/IMG] Leading a group January 2019 on the Odyssey. We have the whole vessel chartered for this adventure. Interested? Contact me via email at [email][/email] or [email][/email].[/QUOTE]<br />-----<br />[B][SIZE=5][COLOR=#0000ff][I]Capt. Ani[/I][/COLOR][/SIZE][/B] [URL='']Deco Divers Miami[/URL] [SIZE=3][I]“Wreckreational Dive Capitol of the World"[/I][/SIZE] [SIZE=2]Phone: 305-861-6277 Email: [email][/email][/SIZE] [SIZE=3][COLOR=#0000ff]Follow us on [URL='']Facebook[/URL][/COLOR][/SIZE]
  11. Leading a group here in January 2019 on the Odyssey. We, I'm running this trip with John Nussbaum & Autumn Blum, have the whole vessel chartered with room for advanced, tech & CCR divers. Interested? Contact me via email at [email][/email].<br />-----<br />[B][SIZE=5][COLOR=#0000ff][I]Capt. Ani[/I][/COLOR][/SIZE][/B] [URL='']Deco Divers Miami[/URL] [SIZE=3][I]“Wreckreational Dive Capitol of the World"[/I][/SIZE] [SIZE=2]Phone: 305-861-6277 Email: [email][/email][/SIZE] [SIZE=3][COLOR=#0000ff]Follow us on [URL='']Facebook[/URL][/COLOR][/SIZE]

Leave a comment