33'' tower problem {mako pd1803}

[phantomrfa]

Hello, i tried fitting the LF filter today and found it very loose on the nipple at the base?
This being the first filter i have fitted in this tower ,i think the O rings are missing but can't see to be sure.
In pictures i have seen the base unscrew from the main body .But i cannot seem to get it undone.
i have already had it in the vise with metal spanner and cheeter bar but won't move

Is there something i'am missing? clockwise or anticlockwise to undo .just asking to be sure i'am not going mad

 

[Wookie]

STOP!! The o-rings are in the filter housing, not in the base. Pulling the base apart is a real pain, if you aren't ready with new o-rings and backing rings, don't do it. (Do it every year for inspection, however) The L-factor filters have more grease on them than the Mako 1803's do, that may be why the new filter is slipping on easier. Check your o-ring in the bottom of the filter, flashlight down the tube to make sure there isn't anything weird looking down there, compare the bottom of the l-factor to your old 1803 you took out, and shove it in. Don't touch the outside of the filter with your bare hands, always use a clean paper towel, and make sure the filter isn't ratteling lose on the nipple. Should be OK.

 

[kdupreez]

Mine does the same.. but with pressure the o-ring on the inside of the nipple makes a good seal!

 

[frogman62]

Guys everything you have said is correct. There is one little detail that should be commented on -- The tower top and bottom should never be screwed on tight and left that way as everytime the chamber expands from internal pressure the potential for the chamber connections to be come even tighter and hense more difficult to unscrew for yearly maintenance and O ring replacement. Hand tighten and then back off 1/2 inch from tight and put an index mark so you position the cylinder and caps at the same place every time. With this procedure you won't ever damage the threads or have to put every thing in a vise and use a cheater to get it apart.
Jim Shelden

 

[phantomrfa]

the base is still stuck but ,there is no leaks so when i get around to rebuilding/replaceing the O rings what should i do?

1, freeze base and warm tube .
2, good old wd40 and a lot of cleaning
3, ok I've run out of ideas

Please remember parts are not easy to find in UK.
I import from the USA/Ebay.
anyone got a rebuild kit for a 33'' tower they would send to the uk...
are they all the same or is there diffrent kits.

 

[phantomrfa]

frogman the tower is second hand from USA ,so i didn't do it up .Backing the threads off sounds a good way of stopping this happening again.. Would something like O2 grease help with the rebuild ,to stop theads sticking{last time i worked with compressed air it was all dry rebuilds }but that was a clean room..

 

[frogman62]

Phantomrfa, The rebuild kit is 2 0 rings and two backup rings. Should be able to find at any good hydraulic store on the UK price is $5.00 at the most.
Put the base with two bolts in the bottom in a good heavy vise and get a good strap wrench with a 3 foot cheater. The tube to base is a standard right hand thread -- take a hard mallett (not steel hammer) and put all the tension on it you can and then begin tapping it with the mallet until it comes loose. You can heat it but don't get it hotter than you hold on too, as you don't want to affect the hardness of the cylinder
Jim Shelden

 

[Zodiacdiverdave]

If you can not remove the base do not use heat to loosen it. Take it to your Hydro test facility and have them clamp it in their cylinder vise and unscrew the base from the cylinder.

 

[phantomrfa]

rebuilt filtration and started to build pressure ,,hisssss, from base 'O' ring :depressed:
the base has now been removed to find a white ali rust in one spot 6mm long x.5/.75 deep..
can this be just filled with paste / paint or something like lead ?
all i need is a seal with the o ring as its on the thick wall section ?


has anyone heard of hts2000 ali brazing rods ,,i think it may get too hot for this job

 

[Zodiacdiverdave]

Again STOP! Do not use heat on your High pressure filtor tower or any other high pressure alluminum device. it will explode on you the first time you pressurize it. The best thing you can do at this time is to clean the rust (oxidation) of the filter tower with green Scotch Bright sanding pads or fine alluminum oxide sanding paper. Clean it as best you can, if you can take a picture of the area and post it here then or one of the other compressor techs can make a better judgemnet on the continued use of it, or recommend it be removed from service.
You may be able to get it to seal with no other work after it is clean and lubricated with silicon grease (Dow Corning 111) or Oxylub. Make sure the seal (O-ring) is not cut. I will watch for you picture, best of luck.
ZDD