another weights thread

[fjpatrum]

I have some family members who work with virgin lead for medical supplies and they gave me about 20 pounds or so of lead brick. Currently the brick is cut into chunks between 1 and 8 pounds apiece, I'm guessing. I was originally planning to melt these down and pour some weights but now I'm thinking maybe just use them as is (since I use a weight belt that has pockets) if I can get them measured and sized to the right sizes I want.

So I have a couple of questions:

If I do decide to use the lead as is (essentially), I'm thinking about "sealing" them with some tool dip to soften the edges a bit and hopefully provide a little durability. Has anyone tried this and had success? I saw a mention of it in a thread about making weights but never heard whether it was successful or how durable it ended up being.

If I decide to melt it down and make some molded weights, what is the best way to start the melting process? I've read a bunch of threads about using cast iron pots to melt the metal in and then pour it into a completely dry mold. I'll be making the molds out of dry hardwood I have around, if I do this. Is there anything more to this other than preparing for fumes and keeping things completely dry to avoid splatter? Just drop the lead into the pot and heat it like that?

I've read the threads and the appropriate safety precautions will be taken, I'm just looking for a little clarification of the most basic process.

 

[emoreira]

Hi, wood molds are 1 use only, as the hot lead will burn the wood.
Perhaps a second, but rare.
Metal molds should be the way to go.

To melt the lead, you need to put the lead brick in a metal pot over the stove and heat the lead brick from upside with a second gas torche, those used by plumbers
With the lead completelly melted, remove the upper clinker with a knike.
You can use a 1 pound metal can (those for peaches) as melting pot.

I did not paint my weights. I've seen all the weights that the operators use with only traces of paint.
There is a plastic cover for some commercial weights, but they are usually very rounded. I don't know the process to cover with such a thick plastic cover. It should be industrial.

 

[dave4868]

Use cast iron or steel pots for melting the lead. Avoid aluminum pots, as it's possible to weaken and/or burn through aluminum. I know this from personal experience when 12 pounds of lead poured through a hole in the bottom of the pot and then into my Coleman stove and then onto the wood deck....

As was mentioned, the added heat from a torch will help start the melting. You only need to heat the lead a little past the melting point, if you do a quick pouring into the mold.

Wood molds will be prone to the problems mentioned. Other than using metal molds, molds of existing weight designs or your own design can also be made using plaster of Paris. Once the plaster molds have cured, thorough drying and pre-heating will be important. The easiest molds to make and use would be single-sided, although they leave a flat side to the finished weight. They would simply be filled to the top and allowed to cool for a minute or two before turning over to let the weight drop out. I've made split 2-sided molds of plaster of Paris, but they're a bit trickier to make and use. With split molds, lead temps that are too high will cause more leaking through the spaces between the molds.

Avoid using soldered cans as molds or melting pots.

"Plasti Dip" would work fine, but significantly increase the cost.

Good luck! Don't get hurt!

Dave C

 

[fjpatrum]

Thanks for the information, folks. Looks like this shouldn't be too difficult so if the weights aren't convenient sizes as is, I'll go ahead and make some molds.

 

[Iknee]

My family has weight integrated BC's that I have made custom weights for. I find containers from the grocery store or Good Will that match the shape of the weight pocket I am making them for. I have used Altoid tins, mini bread pans, sardine cans, and various other metal containers found at yard sales or Good Will. I use these containers as the melting pot and the mold.

I pre-weigh the lead, put it in the container, put it on the bottom rack of the charcoal grill and walk away. I come back when they have completely melted and douse the charcoal (not the lead!!!!!). I have left it overnight before and let the charcoal burn out. A gas grill would be easier, but you definitely have to watch your temperature! Dave can vouch for that! I am sure you will find your own method that fits your circumstances. I would like to hear how your first experience goes!

 

[rcs9250]

I have made custom weights for my Black diamond. I work in a machine shop so I have a lot at my disposal in the way of fabrication. I made a rectangular mold out of steel plates that were bolted together so I could disassemble it to remove the lead bar. The mold only had 5 sides. I just stood it up and poured the lead in. Because I wanted an anatomical curve in them I then took the lead bar and put it in a hydraulic press and progressively bent it to the desired shape. Then I took the bent bar and used a wood rasp to start shaping further and rounding corners off. As I filed I would weigh the piece so as to not go below my desired weight.
I did not paint mine. I made a set for my buddy. He coated his with dip grip or whatever it's called. It made them a little sticky when putting them in the pockets.
Some folks are all worried about the contact of lead on there hands. I personally don't believe the amount of handling we do with lead is harmful to us. YMMV.
Don't try to put all your lead in the pockets. Do the necessary dives to determine where the lead needs to be so that you are trimmed horizontally in the water.
Trimming can be as simple one or two ankle weights on your tank valve.

 

[fjpatrum]

Yeah, I've already got my trim fairly squared away, especially now that I'm using a back plate. I haven't even taken the lead out of the trunk of my car yet, so hopefully I'll get to this soon.