Trip Report Bonaire March 11 - 25 Trip

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Jersey

Contributor
Messages
1,163
Reaction score
334
Location
SE PA/ Southern NJ
# of dives
200 - 499
This was the 17th straight year for JustUs Divers at Buddy Dive, 2 weeks, one week is just not enough. Your milege may vary and past performance is no indication of anything. JustUs is a spoof - for years hubs and I traveled and people would ask if we were there with a group, to which he would reply "Yes, just us", so we started calling ourselves "JustUs Divers". Over the years my brother and nephew joined us, we met and made friends and now have a core group of 6 - 11. We return to Buddy for the convenience, efficiency, dive ops and reef. Having a kitchen allows us to save $$ eating in. The dive-drive pack makes it easy, the drive through for tanks a dream, and the location is about mid-way between the north and south sites. We do both boat and shore> one has mobility issues making shore diving a challenge, I particularly love the south side of Klein sites, most of us take photo/GoPro and buddy hunts Lionfish which he can only do under the supervision of an operation, so either boat or guided shore dive.

The travel - we fly Delta from PHL-ATL-BON. Airfare was ridiculous this year, part of the group paid $2,200 per person. OUCH! We are looking to change our timing next year based on this. Flights were smooth, layover times reasonable, allowed us to take advantage of Sky Clubs. Did have a ground stop in ATL on the way down, 2 hrs on the plane because of volume heading into the Caribbean basin and JAX couldn't handle the traffic. Other than pricing, no issues with Delta. All bags made it, Buddy transportation to resort is smooth, they take your bags and deliver them directly to the rooms. Our bags were there before we completed the check in process.

The resort - majority of the paperwork is completed online and ahead of time. C cards are scanned and sent, just stop in the shop to get a locker key and weights. Then do a check out dive off the resort dock and off you go! Benches line the wall and you can usually find somewhere to sit and kit up. Metal stairs make entry and exit simple, but they are slick with algae. Rinse tanks for All Gear, Regulators and Cameras means you can rinse, use the lockers and not turn your room into a dive shop. Couple showers allow you a quick rinse between dives as well (I love outdoor showers). Dive staff are fantastic! Another reason we return. Someone available to answer questions or help with gear and we had some gear issues this trip (nothing like being at the site and having your tank and regs topple off the back of the truck, to the ground, blowing a ring in the first stage. Bexs will be shopping for new gear!) Great resources for fish ID & behavior in both Danni and Menno. We do the breakfast buffets, due to convenience. (May cut that, I think the accountant in the group figured we are paying $23 per person per day, $640 per couple for the 2 weeks. I can make steak and eggs for breakfast every day for less.) No issues at the resort, but we aren't looking for Ritz or 4Seasons. Rooms are clean, AC worked for the most part, hot showers, grounds are nice enough, 2 onsite pools, 2 onsite restaurants should you wish to partake plus a bar. Resort is powered by diesel generators no issues keeping the lights on. We did have the water cut off twice which was inconvenient as it occurred as we were getting ready for dinner - great feeling donning your finest dress after 3 dives and no shower. I love diving off the reef at Buddy. Easy to navigate, there is a line from the dock to the reef if you have doubts. (For those who have been there before, the line now stops at shoulder of reef, about 20 fsw, where it used to run down to about 40-50 and the north-south lines have been removed as well, didn't ask why). Buddy is the site of the initial coral restoration efforts and while I've no empirical evidence (fish counts, species identified, etc) anecdotally I'm seeing more fish, larger fish and more species. The coral babies bring in the little things, which bring in the larger things. Schools of medium sized snapper, schoolmasters loiter under the boats, not moving as you float quietly by. Cubera snapper and grouper turning up with more frequency. Turtles, tarpon and all the normally pretty reef fish, including porkfish which I've not seen in 10 years, and a couple rare cornet fish (oversized trumpet fish). Most days I could see the bottom of the reef, out into the sand from the top - probably 80 - 90 feet or more. No current > I could go north or south.

More later, have a call to run to.
 
$2200 for tickets, Yikes! Great trip report. I love the location of Buddy Dive, although I keep hearing mixed reviews regarding the food there.
 
thanks for your report. we look forward to our trip in July
 
$2200 for tickets, Yikes! Great trip report. I love the location of Buddy Dive, although I keep hearing mixed reviews regarding the food there.
@morecowbells - in the interest of positivity I will only say there are far, far better places to eat. Leading to - where we ate & what I remember of us eating & drinking:
  • Unmarked Chinese Restaurant, just north of Bamboo Bali > literally if I didn't see the lanterns hanging, I would not have known it was a restaurant. Used to be part of Zong Kong, the mini mart. Mostly locals, Bexs and I got some strange looks when we walked in. I recognized one of the island realtors sitting at the bar. We ordered take away while the husbands went to Zong Kong for beers. HUGE egg rolls. Flavors more Indian/Malaysian than American Chinese >egg rolls were curried which for my American palate was strange. Food was fresh, we did typical egg roll, wonton soup, chicken and broccoli, shrimp and veggies and pepper steak entrees. Four entrees, sides, 4 beers while waiting was about $100 and we had left overs for 2 days. (There are a couple other Chinese places we wanted to check out, but ran out of time. Cheng Kee on the north end of Kralendjik looks worth investigating, as does Jasmine Garden down by Divi.)
  • Joes - near the Plaza, popular with our Dutch friends. Fantastic drinks and food, finished with a snort of their homemade liqueur. Hubs had the Iberico Ham starter and pork schnitzel, I did a smoked fish app and red snapper fish du jour, Bexs did onion gratinee and steak and Brian did beer and pork schnitzel. We all rolled out stuffed, but enough room for Gio's Gelato! About $120/couple Joe's Restaurant Bonaire – Enjoy the casual and friendly atmosphere at Joe’s!
  • Melisa Sailing - a dinner cruise setting out at 5P from the Harbor, returning 9:30P. We loved it. $100/pp which includes 6 courses and wines. They were generous keeping the wine flowing and it was very drinkable. You can add 2 courses (Oyster and Coffee) for $25. You are seated on the decks on Persian rugs and cushions, the boat motors until after dinner service when they set the sails. We cruised down to Salt Pier, then back up to Sabadeco before returning to harbor. The courses are served small plate/tapas size, starting with an amuse bouche of fresh Lionfish, a cube, in a citrus ponzu. There was a delish cream of cauliflower soup, a roast pork loin for the main. Delicious dessert of ice cream, pineapple and something else that sounded strange but was incredible. Hubs and I were quite full, but I could see where some folks could still be hungry after, which was one of the negative reviews of the cruise. Book in advance, I had a bit of an issue contacting them, finally messaged through WhatsApp. Cash only. Melisa Sailing Contact - Melisa sailing Bonaire
  • Cappriccio - perennial favorite for unusual and affordable vintages, Italian food and impeccable service. (In the small world thing, ran into the guy who certified my NAUI Nitrox course 20 years ago.) I did the beef carpaccio as a main, Bexs did the filet, the rest of the table did pasta with various proteins. Bottle of Italian sparkling, Nino Franco Rose was lovely. Great location watching the sun set over the harbor. About $120/couple. Home - Capriccio Restaurant Bonaire
  • Eddies - at Sand Dollar. Really good food, great Friday night music - smooth jazz played low by a guy on a guitar. Walked over from Buddy Dive. Hubs did the goat stew, I did shrimp in a coconut curry. Bexs and I started with an amazing cream of pumpkin soup. VERY reasonable. Entrees range from about $19 - 30. Rolled out to stuffed for ice cream
  • Sugar Thief - brewery/mead/food, one of several visits to this hidden gem. Imagine your best friend brewed really good beer, was a cool guy to hang with, had a bunch of cool and interesting friends popping in and out, and you have Sugar Thief. Texans Aaron and Edite are open Thursday - Sunday 5 -10P serving their brews and food. The food menu is limited to the daily item and changes monthly. It is small...even 'small' may be generous. 3 tables inside (seating 8), 5 barstools and maybe 2 or 3 on the porch. The first week we went for taco night - smoked chicken, pork, steak or veggie on homemade street tacos, with the barest of accompaniments. OMG. 2 tacos, rice and beans $15 or 2 tacos plus a beer $15. Where can you eat for that??? Not to mention ALL HOMEMADE! And the beer and mead are fantastic. The second week we went back for gourmet grilled cheese and tomato soup. Mixed cheeses on a hearty sourdough, grilled with a garlic aoli. The soup is spicy and chunky. Perfect sandwich dipping. So good that hubs and I looked at each other after the first and said - want to split another?? We were the little piggies that night! Aaron tells us the record is one guy ordering and eating 3. Total bill that night $48 for food and several beers, one of the best meals and most fun nights we had. Not sure why, maybe it's the small size, but this place is fun - everyone chats with each other, a local ex-pat Brit noticed the area code on our t-shirt (609 - southern New Jersey) started chatting with us, turns out he was a paramedic in Atlantic City and we all knew a bunch of the same people. Brian and Bexs probably stopped in 3 -4 times during our stay. Don't let the small size deter you, Home - Sugar Thief
  • Cuba Compagnie - pleasant to sit out on the square, but the food seemed off this visit. My chicken sate was rubber and hubs said his fish smelled fishy. About $100/couple. Cuba Compagnie Bonaire | the hottest spot on bonaire
  • Mezze - Mediterranean/Middle Eastern always good. Amuse bouche of Persian Chicken with fresh homemade pita is always devoured. I did a fresh red snapper with fresh roasted veggies, hubs had kebap, we split the beet anbd goat cheese salad. Bexs had the filet special (she is a meat kind of girl) and I forget what Brian had, they split the mushroom app. The garlic truffle fries were amazing. We split a bottle of Belstar Cuvee Rose. About $125/couple MEZZE Mezze Bonaire
  • Mi Banana - ownership changed over the last year. Hubs did the mixed grill w/ fries, I did the sirloin w/ plaintains. Bexs did a chicken stuffed with cheese and we did Polars all around. Not to miss is the Tres Leches cake which sells out early. OMG. Total for 4 including tip $125.
  • Gio's - get the card and save a few $$. Rotating selections of gelato, never bad.
  • Chefs - at Bamboo Bali, reservations made a year ago and unfortunately one of the Chefs had a death in the family, so we didn't get to go. If you are fortunate to get in, it's amazing pre-fixe multi course meal w/ optional wines. We managed a reservation in 2020, they were closed during our 2021 visit, couldn't get 2022 reservation, immediately upon return from that trip booked the 2023. Condolences to Chef and looking forward to a 2024 reservation. I think price is $100/person https://chefsbonaire.com

Cannot stress enough - make reservations! We counted multiple people turned away at almost all of the above during our dinners. Some have websites where you can make reservations (Cuba compagnie, Eddies, Capriccio), some you must call or stop by. Stopping by usually isn't an issue, we finish dinner and drive or walk to the next place we want. You can usually get in with a day or 2 notice, but get the reservation.

Bunch of new or newer places noted. There is a dumpling house and a tapas place that look interesting just behind Mona Lisa. And if you are a restauranter looking for a new gig - Mona Lisa is for sale. This used to be our favorite place, but the menu got kind of stale over time. Hoping someone buys and revives.

We ate in a few nights, simple things like spaghetti & meatballs or chicken in a white wine mushroom lemon sauce. We love having a room full of friends to share food and laugh and while limited, the kitchen in the unit is more than adequate. We cooked for 8. The fridge always had beverages, salad fixings, snacks, Dutch Gouda, cured meats and fresh Lionfish Ceviche for lunches. Van Den Tweel, Warehouse and Bon di Gro are all located on the same 1/2 mile stretch of road. VDT is open 7 days a week until 8P, they are the upscale Bonaire equivalent of Whole Foods. Less expensive options are Warehouse and Bon di Gro. Be aware BdG is CASH ONLY. Shopping can be interesting as my Dutch is non-existent, but I've never had an issue when asking someone what an ingredient or direction translates to in English.

Alcohol can be bought almost anywhere - supermarkets, convenience stores, Asian Groceries, restaurants. No issues finding Bombay Sapphire, limes and tonic or rum for mojito's. (And even after eating well for 2 weeks, the scale was down 3 lbs!)

Back to work, the fun stuff - diving, sites, conditions, to come.
 
Great read! We are heading to Buddy Dive in May with some friends for the first time. How do you all plan your days/dives typically? (i.e. do you have favorite dive sites you plan to hit every year, do you head north for sites one day and south another, do you talk to the dive shop to plan a few days out,...)
 
Thanks for the AMAZING list of places to eat! 100% agree with you about Sugar Thief. We visited the place just for beers(planning on eating leftovers at condo). When I saw the tacos, our dinner plans immediately changed. it was my favorite meal on the island. Tacos were a flavor explosion with some actual spice and heat which I find lacking at other places. Sadly, I also agree with you on Cuba Compagnie. Not any where as good as our past visits.
 
Great read! We are heading to Buddy Dive in May with some friends for the first time. How do you all plan your days/dives typically? (i.e. do you have favorite dive sites you plan to hit every year, do you head north for sites one day and south another, do you talk to the dive shop to plan a few days out,...)
Thanks @agmason, enjoy and wish I was heading back soon! Yes, yes and yes. If we are boat diving, we've been signed up for a couple days (may i suggest a couple dives out to Klein if possible. Especially the South side, a wide sand plateau, shoulder, then down the side.) Bonaventure to Southwest Corner if you look at the map. SWC is often not possible, its the collision of 2 sides, but incredible shallows if currents are down. Topography on the South w the shallows home to juvi stuff, turtles, rays, sharks, as well as beautiful soft corals and if it's sunny, ambient light for photo and vid. 2 tank morning boat leaves Buddy at 8:10, back about noon or just after. Then some shore diving > planning is usually discussed the night before. There are some great books to help preview sites, but go for the site, not because the book says "X are seen here". Grab 2 tanks per person and head out - North or South. Grab a spare tank, just in case one has a bad o ring. If there is no boat at Salt Pier, do it. A ship could arrive in 4 or 5 hours. Had that happen - we got out at 12:30 and they were shutting it down for a 4P ship arrival. Some sites are very condition determined - swells, winds hamper some entries. If we are hearing about currents we are careful with the south sites. We are older (suxs to be saying that), so we are always cautious. We scrapped Jeannies Glory & Larry's Lair this trip because we were doing East Side the next day and no one wanted to blow an ankle. (In retrospect, we could have done them, it wasn't wave action, it was more slippery, ironshore step down and baby urchins in spots.) In that case, drive down the road and pick the next site > Invisibles or Tory's are easy peasy entries. Day usually ends with a dive off Buddy dock with my camera, which is not to be underestimated. Also a great night dive. We tend to do longer dives, so 3 a day is just fine. STAY HYDRATED - I took a day off from diving early on, may have gotten a bit dehydrated and just felt my head was on lopsided. Didn't feel safe to dive, so I napped. Unheard of for me to sleep during daylight.

Our dives are usually 75 - 80 minutes (not counting surface swim which on some South sites may be 5 or more min). We are slow. We love to stop and observe marine life. Our core group all have excellent SAC, we may end an 80 min dive with 1,100 - 1,500PSI remaining. We don't go particularly deep > 70 - 75 max, not much to see below that anyway except for things like Hooker, or the Tug etc. We ALWAYS leave lots of time and air at the end for the shallows, stuff happens. Second Salt Pier dive, we swam out about 80% of the way, dropped, did the south side pilings, worked our way North, crossed over the middle. At this point we are 42 minutes in and call the turn. Working back and the fun starts - 3 Barracudas herding and snapping at fish. School of blue tang led by a big Rainbow Parrot swarm. I take a heading for shore, stopping at coral heads to watch the Pederson cleaning shrimp work on Coney's. We get maybe 50 feet from shore, in 8 feet of water, and a big ol turtle heads to surface and back down. Followed by 3 goofy trunk fish waiting for the turtle to churn up food. We love turtles and stop to watch. Bexs and Brian catch up to us, we hang, Brian then signals there are 4 squid about 10 foot behind me. SQUID! I love them even more than turtles! I give the squid my secret handshake and we line up - 4 divers across from 4 squid and we just watch each other, hanging in water column. Bexs heads over to a solitary boulder brain coral and calls me over to see the teeny-tiny-juvi French Angel, no bigger than a quarter, stripped yellow. Around the back we find juvi Sargeant Majors the size of a thumbnail. As we move to shore, we are swarmed by silversides. My heart was happy. Deemed 'the best dive in 8 foot of water'. Brian says the next time we scrap the pier and just dive from shore to the coral aggregations.

@morecowbells - glad you enjoyed! Brian and Becky (Bexs) found Sugar Thief in October 2022 and were excited to bring us along this time. I'm not really a beer girl, but their meads > they had a Strawberry version and a Cardamom version during our stay. Plus the Texas 'Rita made with a smoked salt rim and jalepeno's which went great with tacos. Truly a gem, a great story, interesting friends and we wish them continued success.

There is another new dining option we heard about "Two Fools and a Bull" located, per the map, a block east of the old Cultimara. We couldn't find it on the street. Pre-fixe, 5 1/2 courses, pricey $130/pp PLUS $70 for the generic wine pairing/$120 for the 'exclusive' wine pairing. Location on Aruba as well. We will probably wait to get more feedback from a few others. I tend not to rush into new-latest-cutting edge dining. I'm a foodie through and through, but not throwing that kind of change lightly. www.2foolsandabull.com

Reviewing our sites, sightings, depth, temps on my logs, but back to work for now.
 
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